Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 17 of 17

Thread: 'Dead' Everest man safe at camp

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Stockholm, Sweden.
    Posts
    516

    Default Re: Everest Alpine Style

    Quote Originally Posted by Escher
    Reinhold Messner climbed Everest solo in true alpine style 1980
    during the monsoon. He climbed from the North side and was the only person on
    the mountain when he succeeded. This feat has not been repeated.
    Escher
    I think Swedish climber Gran Kropp's first successful summiting of Everest
    would qualify as well.

    Here is a quote from NY Times review of Kropps book;
    "Before Kropp, more than 900 people had summited the easy way (sucking canned air),
    and a few had soloed the macho way (no canned air), but nobody had soloed the
    supermacho way (no canned air, no baggage tote from rent-a-yak, no caddying from
    Sherpas, no food from the well-stocked mess hall, no plane ride to Katmandu).

    Kropp was up to the challenge. He rode his bike to Everest (nearly 7,000 miles
    from Sweden), lugged his own gear to base camp, climbed the mountain solo and
    biked home. To outdo him, you'd have to climb Everest backward."

    http://query.nytimes.com/gst/fullpag...53C1A96F958260

  2. #12

    Default Re: 'Dead' Everest man safe at camp

    What??? he didnt walk from and back to Sweden as well???

    Im really desapointed...

    "Kropp escapes a storm by ducking into a rustic brothel, where he pulls out a map and shares his plan with the hookers. The madam is impressed and offers Kropp a free night with her daughter. Kropp refuses -- he's refusing all support services."

    []s

    Hendrik

  3. #13
    hoot72 Guest

    Default Re: Everest Alpine Style

    Quote Originally Posted by Escher
    It is possible to climb Everest in true alpine style but only the best of the very elite of climbers could even consider it. Reinhold Messner climbed Everest solo in true alpine style 1980 during the monsoon. He climbed from the North side and was the only person on the mountain when he succeeded. This feat has not been repeated. Messner, of course, is one of the true greats of mountaineering and possibly the strongest high-altitude climber who has ever lived.

    You need to be very fit, very competent and strong and with the ability to summit without supplementary oxygen. Ideally you would be preacclimatised so you can get up and down the mountain in 2 days as Messner did. Noone would try to acclimatise on the mountain alpine style, you just wouldn't be able to carry all the kit necessary to fix 4-6 camps as is required.

    Also alpine style ascents are only really possible from the northern Tibetan side or up the west ridge (the other routes are even harder). The west ridge is a very difficult route and the NNE ridge (the standard route on the north side) is technically more difficult and more strenuous than the standard route from Nepal in the south. Because ladders have to be fixed on the Khumbu ice fall to get across the huge crevasses there is no way an alpine style team could carry all the ladders they need and fix the route.

    So alpine style is possible, has been done but is very, very rare on Everest. Even oxygenless ascents are rare in comparison to the many guided ascents using O2.

    This autumn an alpine style attempt is going to be made on the west ridge.

    More here:- http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=9144

    Escher
    I am begging to have my doubts of me ever doing Lhotse or even Everest..the words "elite" scare the living crap out of me..

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    2,851

    Default Kropp :)))))))

    ))))))) You made my day!!Thanks Hendrik...

    Quote Originally Posted by Hendrik van Dingenen
    What??? he didnt walk from and back to Sweden as well???

    Im really desapointed...

    "Kropp escapes a storm by ducking into a rustic brothel, where he pulls out a map and shares his plan with the hookers. The madam is impressed and offers Kropp a free night with her daughter. Kropp refuses -- he's refusing all support services."

    []s

    Hendrik
    yakshaver

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    England
    Posts
    1,285

    Default Goran Kropp

    I had forgotten about Goran's epic journey. What an amzing guy he was. He also had ascents of K2 and the extremely difficult and technical Mustagh Tower in the Karakorum under his belt. An absolutel legend.

    I probably should have qualified what I said about Messner's feat being unrepeated. I was referring to his mid-monsoon, solo effort being unrepeated. As there have been other alpine style, solo, oxygenless ascents as you rightly point out.

    Hoot:- Were you planning on climbing Everest or Lhotse alpine style then? The elite I was referring to was those that can summit without O2 and the best of the elite (they can be counted on the fingers of one hand) only can consider an alpine style ascent. But still quite a few novice and inexperienced climbers make it to the summit, with the help of O's, Sherpa teams and miles of fixed rope. But then a fair proportion of them die, with the percentage going up rapidly if the conditions deteriorate.

    There are many 100's if not 1000's of wonderful and beautiful and also technical alpine peaks above 6000m in the Himalaya, many of them unclimbed with pristine summits. An expedition to any one of them would be a terrifically fulfilling experience without the hassle of sharing a route with dead bodies and scores of other people all just following a fixed line to a summit that has been climbed 2000 times. I still don't see the attraction of Everest I am afraid.

    Escher

  6. #16
    hoot72 Guest

    Default Re: 'Dead' Everest man safe at camp

    Hi Escher

    Sadly, I am one of those "tourist" mountaineers who will be hugely dependent on experinced climber guides, sherpa's and oxygen. I am not an alpiine expert and sadly, am not anywhere near half as good as these elite guys..

    They are simply awesome people...

    But still, conquering everest is a dream from me as a child and something I have always, always dreamed about since learing about sir edmund's exploits as a 10 year old boy..

    These people are just out of this world..

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    49

    Default Re: 'Dead' Everest man safe at camp

    For those in the USA:

    Lincoln Hall and Dan Mazur will be on the TODAY show in the USA on Monday 12 June.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •