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Thread: Ladakh

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
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    Packington, Leicestershire
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    Default Re: Ganesh Himal

    Hi Sujoy

    I dont think it is a very good idea to go just now even though the flights are running. Can you push the trip back by a bit say September first week?
    You're quite right and I expect Exodus will come to the same decision. Unfortunately, I'm waiting for an operation and I asked for it to be done in September so that I could make this trip to Ladakh. After I've had the op I will not be able walk far for a few days and it will take 3/4 weeks for me to be okay again. We might look at doing our own trip possibly to Nepal later this year.
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    * thesilvertops *
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  2. #22
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
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    Default Re: Ganesh Himal

    Exodus have been in touch today are they are now hoping to run our trek a week later. That would see us arrive in Leh on the 23rd Sptember. 11 of the original 16 clients are able to do that but it all depends on a lot of things so still not sure. They hope to confirm one way or the other on Monday next.

    Ganesh Himal looks a very attractive part of Nepal. There ought to be a good trekking route through that area.
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    * thesilvertops *
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  3. #23
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Packington, Leicestershire
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    436

    Default Re: Ganesh Himal

    Hi CyclingPaul and Sujoy,

    Our trip to Leh and Ladakh is on again! The FCO has revised it's travel advice. We fly to Delhi on the 21st/22nd and on to Leh on the 23rd. We have been warned that our trek route might be adjusted depending on conditions. Will report back on our return.
    **************
    * thesilvertops *
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  4. #24

    Default Re: Ganesh Himal

    Great good luck and safe trekking!

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
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    Default Re: Ganesh Himal

    We're now back home in the Uk so here is my report on the situation in Leh and Ladakh and also on our trek from Rumtse to Kibber. We were in Leh from Monday 22nd to Thursday 25th August. When we arrived there, tourists were noticeable by their absence. However, by the time we left, there were many more around. The situation in Leh town was more or less normal.
    The flash flood came down the valley from the north of town, past what used to be a rubbish tip and down through the bus station area and on to the Indus. There is considerable damage in the bus station area with buildings destroyed/damaged and rubble/silt in some quantity. However, this pales into insignificance when compared to the village of Choglamsar, a few km SE of Leh. A cloudburst in the vicinity of Sabu to the north caused a massive flash flood to enter Choglamsar. It appears that the flood was trapped in the main street by the buildings and ran along the street until it was able to escape into the Indus. The roller shutters on shop fronts have been burst in and the rooms behind filled with silt and rocks to 1 or 2 metres deep. The main street is lined on both sides with piles of rock, stones and silt. We saw little evidence of this being cleared. A one-way system was in operation to cope with traffic. Two very damaged cars now sit on the far bank of the Indus having been carried there by the flood waters. Tibetan refugees seem to have suffered most with many killed and their homes destroyed. Villages further along the road have suffered to a lesser extent, i.e. Thikse. The road from Upshi to Rumtse has been totally destroyed and will not re-open for some time. Our guide said that
    there is no evidence of the existence of the road in the landscape. It's just disappeared. To get to Rumtse from Leh (normally less than 2 hours drive) we had to drive from Leh to Mahe Bridge, then to Tso Kar and then on to Rumtse from the south. It took just under 11 hours with stops!

    Markha valley was completely cutoff. An Exodus group managed to complete a version of the Markha valley trek a week ago but had many problems. All of the bridges have been swept away and every river crossing had to be waded. A number of homes are still buried under mud/rubble and there are believed to still be bodies buried there. A small number of trekkers (4?) are believed to be missing. Throughout our trek we saw evidence of flash flooding. Deep gouges wend their way down the sides of valleys terminating in huge piles of rock/silt. Sometimes, the piles are so big that they can be regarded as new ridges. The big problem in the villages hit by flooding is that the rock/silt has dried out and set hard. It has to be broken up piece by piece with a pickaxe before it can be removed. Very hard work if you have several cubic meters to remove. I took no photos of the destruction out of respect for the victims of the floods.


    The Trek

    The trek from Rumtse to Kibber was very tough. After the first day's hiking we were at or above 4500 metres for 11 days. The first 6 days to Tso Moriri involved crossing 7 passes with 6 over 5000m. One day involved two passes, the first at 5440 metres and the second, 5420 metres with a 300 metre drop in between. From Tso Moriri, we hiked in towards the Parang La for 4 days, crossed the pass early on the fifth, and walked out to Kibber on the 6th. We had to complete several river crossings and the Parang Char was the most difficult and most dangerous. Unfortunately, we had to cross at about midday and it would have been much better to cross at first light before the sun got to work on the glaciers. The weather was excellent, although too hot for the first 3 days. We only had one very brief shower whilst hiking along Tso Moriri. We only saw a few other trekkers - perhaps 35 at most - whilst on trek and we never had to share a camp site. Overall, fantastic, tough trek.

    Sujoy - some notes for you.


    You say that you would like to hike from Kibber to Korzok next year. You might like to consider going the other
    way although I appreciate acclimatisation is possibly the reason for your choice. Here is a brief description of the route for you:

    Leaving Kibber, the route follows a track and a path through fields before you descend sharply into a river gorge at about 4200/4300m. Cross the foot bridge and follow the smaller gorge straight ahead. Climb out of the gorge in about 45 minutes and keep walking ahead. You will drop down to some fields and a couple of buildings. The path then veers to the right and heads up to a small pass (as our guide called it) at 4730m. The trail then drops gently down to a camp site at 4565m. The path becomes steeper as you drop down into the gorge (same one as before) and to the river at about 4300m. Turn left, cross the river and make your way along for about 2 hours before the trail heads off uphill on the right. You will probably need to do 3 river crossings whilst in the gorge! You now have a steep, very rocky, and very uncomfortable hike up the hill to the Parang La - something like 1200/1300 metres of ascent. There is a camping place at around 5000 metres. This is the south side base camp. The Parang La is at 5580/5590 metres. Only a little snow on south side but a long glacier on north side. You will have to choose a route onto the glacier depending on conditions at the time. Head down the centre of the glacier (no crevasses) and bear left as you reach the snout. North side base camp is on the left side about 1 kilometre from the glacier. From here you will need to keep on the left side until a valley comes in from the right. Then cross the Parang Char and the side valley river. The trail now keeps on the right side until the final crossing of the Parang La just before the end of the valley (2 days hiking). Before you turn left to head for Tso Moriri, you need to cross the Parang Char one final time near Norbu Sumdo. Try to do this crossing at dawn. We did it at noon and it was very difficult. We had two ropes and lots of helpers. Margaret was washed off her feet but hung on to the rope and the cook boys and other trekkers managed to get her to the side somehow. She was soaked and we had to find dry clothes for her. Be aware that there are only a couple of camp sites in this section from the Parang La. Although there are a number of flat areas to pitch tents, there is little grazing for ponies, most having been destroyed by the flash floods. There are places to stop between Norbu Sumdo and Kyangdam(Tso Moriri) but the ground is very wet and you will be pestered by flies and mosquitoes - Yes!, mosquitoes of some sort. I had one bite me, it looked like a mosquito and when I killed it, it was full of blood - my blood! I thought they were'nt found above about 1500m. We only stopped for a couple of minutes then we got out of there fast. There is camping at Kyangdam and the next camping is at Korzok. No camping is allowed along the Tso Moriri. Korzok is.....uninspiring. However, I enjoyed a visit to the Gompa and there is a nice Mani/Chorten wall. You can also buy supplies, etc.,

    If you send me a private message with email address, I will send you a GPS/Google Earth data file so that you view the trail.

    Photos will be on my site soon and I will publish the web address on the forum when they're ready.
    **************
    * thesilvertops *
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  6. #26
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    England
    Posts
    1,285

    Default Re: Ladakh

    I've copied these notes about Ladakh into a separate thread so I can leave it as a sticky titled Ladakh. There is some really good information here and I thought it would get overlooked by some in the Ganesh Himal thread. I've left the other thread intact otherwise it might not make any sense.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    Escher

  7. #27

    Default Re: Ladakh

    Thanks Escher. Most useful.

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