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Thread: Ganesh Himal

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
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    188

    Default Ganesh Himal

    I have just come back from Nepal and am already starting to think about my next trek! I have always fancied trekking in the Ganesh Himal, so I think that will be my next one.

    I would be looking to undertake a fully-supported trek of about 1 month, taken at a leisurely pace with side trips etc in interesting areas. Has anyone done anything like this in the Ganesh Himal area?

    My initial thoughts were to start in Dunche or Somdang, to go West and join up with the Manasulu trek somewhere, and then to follow that trek to Ngyak where I want to break off and explore the side valleys to the East. I'd then rejoin the Manasulu trek and follow that round.

    Any comments and advice much appreciated, especially with regards to access restrictions, checkpoints, special permits etc in the more out of the way areas.

    Thanks

    Paul

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
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    West Coast Canada
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    Default Re: Ganesh Himal

    In 2004 I left Sybaru Bensi and came out over by the start of the manaslu trek. I was in 14 days and never saw another foreigner. The first couple of days behind Sybaru bensi are fascinating.

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    I could easily spend over 3 weeks in there.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
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    188

    Default Re: Ganesh Himal

    Sharon, thanks for the reply. I am pretty certain I'm going to be doing this trek in 2009 ( fingers crossed ) so I might be posting a few more questions!!
    Very difficult to get rid of the Nepal bug................

    Thanks,

    Paul

  4. #4
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    Aug 2004
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    Default Re: Ganesh Himal

    I've recently finished a rather unconventional trek through Dhading, near the Ganesh Himal, hiking from Syabrubesi (Rasua) to Gorkha. Assuming that some people may be interested to hear about the area then here are a few of my comments.

    This is not a "normal" trekking route, its certainly not listed in the Lonely Planet. We went a whole week without seeing another westerner. There are very few lodges and as we didn't have a tent we had to rely on local hospitality for food and shelter. This means it is necessary to sleep on a floor matt and eat dal bhat every day (neither being a problem for me). The locals speak a mixture of (often) Nepali and (usually) Tamang (we met Gurung and Sherpa, plus others). My guide (Naran Ghale) was absolutely essential, he saw to all my modest needs, carried my bag and sometimes even cooked. He knew the route (or how to find it) and led me places that I would never have managed to travel without his aid.

    It would be possible to explore this area with a small camping group but it would not be and immersive in the local culture. I didn't have to eat my dal bhat using my hand, but it seemed appropriate and that's what I did. I had a unique and personal experience, quite different from the standard treks on the main routes.

    Route
    Syabrubesi - Gatlang - Somdang - Tipling - Borang - Lapa - Tawal - Majuwa - Lapibesi - Korlakholabesi - Laprak - Barpak - Sarkigaon - Gorkha

    Trek notes
    Starting in Syabrubesi we head west, up the steep hill on the opposite side to the Langtang valley then follow the road round the hillside to the top end of the village of Gatlang. The villages in this valley are the "Tamang Heritage Trail", our lodgings for the night would best be described as "home-stay".

    Day 2 follow the Road to Somdang, not actually on the road but taking the direct route up the hill and repeatedly crossing the road as it zigzag up through the rhododendron forest, over the ridge and down to the village of Somdang. This place used to service the now disused mine, now there are nearly two lodges. We spent two nights here with a day hike up to Jaisuli Kunda (4500m)

    The road continues a short way up the hill from Somdang then stops quite abruptly before the kharka below Pansang Danda (3740m). We cross the pass (not taking the high route south over the hills to Betrawati) and descend the long steep trail down through blooming rhododendron forest to the village of Tipling. Although Tipling is larger than Somdang there are no lodges, we stay in the 'pasal' ('shop', but its more like a storeroom)

    Next day is on a good trail as we go down the valley, through the village of Sertung and smaller agricultural settlements. Weather is beautiful and we have some occasional views up towards the Ganesh Himal. Borang is a large village, we head downhill to below the village and find a home-stay in a delightful end terrace residence. My room is an extension above the veranda, 3' wide, 4' high and 8' long; on the floor is a bamboo matt and the walls are lined with newspaper from November 2004 (I was in Kanchenjunga at the time it was printed), a lovely place to stay.

    We cross the Akhu Khola and head a short way up the side of an adjacent valley to the village of Lapa. Quite a large village with a good stream running through its centre, it has a "youth group building" a church and something of a hostel where they offer me a choice of meat or fish with my dal bhat!

    Over Barmachet Danda and through Kachet we follow a number of difficult (in many ways) paths and trails until we find our way through Rigaon and (at last!) to Tawal, tired hungry and rained upon we gratefully receive hospitality and shelter.

    Next day is much easier, we cross a river valley and up over a ridge then contour round to Majuwa - this is Naran's home village, we stay at his house, meet his family and of course have a most hearty welcome.

    From Majuwa we go round to cross into the valley of the Buri Gandaki. On the opposite side to the road coming up from Arughat we pass through Manbu (teahouse with chop suey for lunch) and descend slowly down to the river where we cross over and stay at a trekkers lodge in Lapubesi. We are back on the tourist routes.

    One (short) day up the Buri Gandaki valley we stop at Korlakholabesi, a good lodge with nice freshly ground home-grown coffee. The lodge is busy with a camping group and assorted locals (mostly all heading to/from the Tsum Valley) but I have a good room and tasty food.

    Up over the big ridge, with stops in Laprak & Barpak. This trail isn't busy but its used more than I had expected for groups to start the round Manaslu circuit (from Gorkha rather than Arughat). Presently we come down into the Daraudi Khola valley, it is open and flat, the road is pushing up it and we make quick progress down towards Gorkha.

    We stop in a bhatti at Sarkigaon, near the bottom of the hill rising up to Gorkha. They don't get many guests there now that the locals all ride the bus up to town. On our last day the Maoists hijacked all the buses to take their cadres to a rally so we all have to hike up to Gorkha on foot.

    Google map

    .....

    I'll post more details if anyone has any questions or I recall some useful anecdote, and of course a link to the photos when I get some up on Flickr.

    Sharon: I'd be very interested to know what route you took, if you recall the details of placenames...?
    Last edited by Oli; 28th October 2010 at 12:09 AM. Reason: added Google map link

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
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    Near Brisbane, Australia
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    Default Re: Ganesh Himal

    Hi Oli

    Thanks for your notes. I seems so long ago that we sat in KTM and discussed your trek. I am thinking of going in the reverse. Probably from Gorka than having the option to go to Langtang and/or Helambu at the end minus any camping support I take.

    can you recall what permits you required ?

    thanks

    and Paul if you do the link to Manaslu circuit I would recommend a few days up the Tsum valley as another side trip.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
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    188

    Default Re: Ganesh Himal

    Cheers guys this trek is still on my "to do" list but for our main family holiday this year we are going to Ladakh for the first time. In fact we are going in less than 2 weeks!

    We are doing a fully-supported camping trek with all the trimmings. This will be our first camping trek, and first time anywhere in Himalaya outside of Nepal.

    It will be awesome ( I hope )

    Paul

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
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    Packington, Leicestershire
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    Default Re: Ganesh Himal

    Hi Paul

    Where are you hiking in Ladakh? We're heading there in a couple of weeks - due in Leh on Monday 16th Aug. - then a couple of days acclimatising before we start our trek. This time we're hiking from Rumtse to the Spiti valley via Tso Moriri and the Parang La. This will be our third trip there. In 1998 we hiked Lamayuru to Darcha via the Shingo La and in 2000 we hiked from Lamayuru to Stok via Stok Kangri summit. So, it's 10 years since we were last there and we're expecting to find big changes, particularly in Leh. I'm hoping the changes have not detracted from the beauty of it all.
    Last edited by thesilvertops; 28th July 2010 at 05:32 PM.
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    * thesilvertops *
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  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
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    188

    Default Re: Ganesh Himal

    Hi Silvertops,

    We are arriving in Leh Sunday 8th August, fingers crossed.
    Our trek is from Lamayuru to Stok via Markha, which I think is a pretty standard sort of route and perhaps the same as your previous trek? We also are aiming for an ascent of Kang Yatse from Nimaling dependent on acclimatisation.

    I suppose Leh is much busier these days than it used to be but I am sort of hoping that some of the old charm remains and that it has some unspoilt areas still.

    Have a good trek yourselves - we looked at going to Rupshu but we thought that the prolonged high altitude and remoteness would not be good plan when trekking with 6 kids!

    Do you have any tips for a first time Ladakh camper?

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
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    Packington, Leicestershire
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    Default Re: Ganesh Himal

    Hi Paul

    You'll be well on your way when we get there so, have a good trip.

    Tips:

    1. Treat or boil all water. Remember that boiling point is lower at altitude so boil for longer.

    2. If you buy fruit from trailside vendors, wash thoroughly with or stand it in treated water for some time before eating.

    3. Take a football or similar with you so the kids can play and the local kids can join in. Breaks the ice, all the kids have a good time and you might get some good photos as well.

    4. If there are two toilets make sure you use the right one. They have a system where one is used this year and the other next. All human waste goes on the fields whereas animal waste is collected, dried and burnt as fuel.

    5. Have a great time, it's a wonderful place and the people are lovely.


    Our camp at Lamayuru - July 27th 2000
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    * thesilvertops *
    **************

  10. #10

    Default Re: Ganesh Himal

    I did two treks there is the last two years:
    Rumtse to Tso Moriri and then
    from Lamayuru to Padum
    still quite awesome!
    Have a great trip!
    Envious!

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