Ganesh Himal

[cyclingpaul]

I have just come back from Nepal and am already starting to think about my next trek! I have always fancied trekking in the Ganesh Himal, so I think that will be my next one.

I would be looking to undertake a fully-supported trek of about 1 month, taken at a leisurely pace with side trips etc in interesting areas. Has anyone done anything like this in the Ganesh Himal area?

My initial thoughts were to start in Dunche or Somdang, to go West and join up with the Manasulu trek somewhere, and then to follow that trek to Ngyak where I want to break off and explore the side valleys to the East. I'd then rejoin the Manasulu trek and follow that round.

Any comments and advice much appreciated, especially with regards to access restrictions, checkpoints, special permits etc in the more out of the way areas.

Thanks

Paul

[Sharon]

In 2004 I left Sybaru Bensi and came out over by the start of the manaslu trek. I was in 14 days and never saw another foreigner. The first couple of days behind Sybaru bensi are fascinating.

266

I could easily spend over 3 weeks in there.

[cyclingpaul]

Sharon, thanks for the reply. I am pretty certain I'm going to be doing this trek in 2009 ( fingers crossed ) so I might be posting a few more questions!!
Very difficult to get rid of the Nepal bug................

Thanks,

Paul

[Oli]

I've recently finished a rather unconventional trek through Dhading, near the Ganesh Himal, hiking from Syabrubesi (Rasua) to Gorkha. Assuming that some people may be interested to hear about the area then here are a few of my comments.

This is not a "normal" trekking route, its certainly not listed in the Lonely Planet. We went a whole week without seeing another westerner. There are very few lodges and as we didn't have a tent we had to rely on local hospitality for food and shelter. This means it is necessary to sleep on a floor matt and eat dal bhat every day (neither being a problem for me). The locals speak a mixture of (often) Nepali and (usually) Tamang (we met Gurung and Sherpa, plus others). My guide (Naran Ghale) was absolutely essential, he saw to all my modest needs, carried my bag and sometimes even cooked. He knew the route (or how to find it) and led me places that I would never have managed to travel without his aid.

It would be possible to explore this area with a small camping group but it would not be and immersive in the local culture. I didn't have to eat my dal bhat using my hand, but it seemed appropriate and that's what I did. I had a unique and personal experience, quite different from the standard treks on the main routes.

Route
Syabrubesi - Gatlang - Somdang - Tipling - Borang - Lapa - Tawal - Majuwa - Lapibesi - Korlakholabesi - Laprak - Barpak - Sarkigaon - Gorkha

Trek notes
Starting in Syabrubesi we head west, up the steep hill on the opposite side to the Langtang valley then follow the road round the hillside to the top end of the village of Gatlang. The villages in this valley are the "Tamang Heritage Trail", our lodgings for the night would best be described as "home-stay".

Day 2 follow the Road to Somdang, not actually on the road but taking the direct route up the hill and repeatedly crossing the road as it zigzag up through the rhododendron forest, over the ridge and down to the village of Somdang. This place used to service the now disused mine, now there are nearly two lodges. We spent two nights here with a day hike up to Jaisuli Kunda (4500m)

The road continues a short way up the hill from Somdang then stops quite abruptly before the kharka below Pansang Danda (3740m). We cross the pass (not taking the high route south over the hills to Betrawati) and descend the long steep trail down through blooming rhododendron forest to the village of Tipling. Although Tipling is larger than Somdang there are no lodges, we stay in the 'pasal' ('shop', but its more like a storeroom)

Next day is on a good trail as we go down the valley, through the village of Sertung and smaller agricultural settlements. Weather is beautiful and we have some occasional views up towards the Ganesh Himal. Borang is a large village, we head downhill to below the village and find a home-stay in a delightful end terrace residence. My room is an extension above the veranda, 3' wide, 4' high and 8' long; on the floor is a bamboo matt and the walls are lined with newspaper from November 2004 (I was in Kanchenjunga at the time it was printed), a lovely place to stay.

We cross the Akhu Khola and head a short way up the side of an adjacent valley to the village of Lapa. Quite a large village with a good stream running through its centre, it has a "youth group building" a church and something of a hostel where they offer me a choice of meat or fish with my dal bhat!

Over Barmachet Danda and through Kachet we follow a number of difficult (in many ways) paths and trails until we find our way through Rigaon and (at last!) to Tawal, tired hungry and rained upon we gratefully receive hospitality and shelter.

Next day is much easier, we cross a river valley and up over a ridge then contour round to Majuwa - this is Naran's home village, we stay at his house, meet his family and of course have a most hearty welcome.

From Majuwa we go round to cross into the valley of the Buri Gandaki. On the opposite side to the road coming up from Arughat we pass through Manbu (teahouse with chop suey for lunch) and descend slowly down to the river where we cross over and stay at a trekkers lodge in Lapubesi. We are back on the tourist routes.

One (short) day up the Buri Gandaki valley we stop at Korlakholabesi, a good lodge with nice freshly ground home-grown coffee. The lodge is busy with a camping group and assorted locals (mostly all heading to/from the Tsum Valley) but I have a good room and tasty food.

Up over the big ridge, with stops in Laprak & Barpak. This trail isn't busy but its used more than I had expected for groups to start the round Manaslu circuit (from Gorkha rather than Arughat). Presently we come down into the Daraudi Khola valley, it is open and flat, the road is pushing up it and we make quick progress down towards Gorkha.

We stop in a bhatti at Sarkigaon, near the bottom of the hill rising up to Gorkha. They don't get many guests there now that the locals all ride the bus up to town. On our last day the Maoists hijacked all the buses to take their cadres to a rally so we all have to hike up to Gorkha on foot.

Google map (http://tinyurl.com/3ygukxv)

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I'll post more details if anyone has any questions or I recall some useful anecdote, and of course a link to the photos when I get some up on Flickr.

Sharon: I'd be very interested to know what route you took, if you recall the details of placenames...?

[Boulia]

Hi Oli

Thanks for your notes. I seems so long ago that we sat in KTM and discussed your trek. I am thinking of going in the reverse. Probably from Gorka than having the option to go to Langtang and/or Helambu at the end minus any camping support I take.

can you recall what permits you required ?

thanks

and Paul if you do the link to Manaslu circuit I would recommend a few days up the Tsum valley as another side trip.

[cyclingpaul]

Cheers guys this trek is still on my "to do" list but for our main family holiday this year we are going to Ladakh for the first time. In fact we are going in less than 2 weeks!

We are doing a fully-supported camping trek with all the trimmings. This will be our first camping trek, and first time anywhere in Himalaya outside of Nepal.

It will be awesome ( I hope )

Paul

[thesilvertops]

Hi Paul

Where are you hiking in Ladakh? We're heading there in a couple of weeks - due in Leh on Monday 16th Aug. - then a couple of days acclimatising before we start our trek. This time we're hiking from Rumtse to the Spiti valley via Tso Moriri and the Parang La. This will be our third trip there. In 1998 we hiked Lamayuru to Darcha via the Shingo La and in 2000 we hiked from Lamayuru to Stok via Stok Kangri summit. So, it's 10 years since we were last there and we're expecting to find big changes, particularly in Leh. I'm hoping the changes have not detracted from the beauty of it all.

[cyclingpaul]

Hi Silvertops,

We are arriving in Leh Sunday 8th August, fingers crossed.
Our trek is from Lamayuru to Stok via Markha, which I think is a pretty standard sort of route and perhaps the same as your previous trek? We also are aiming for an ascent of Kang Yatse from Nimaling dependent on acclimatisation.

I suppose Leh is much busier these days than it used to be but I am sort of hoping that some of the old charm remains and that it has some unspoilt areas still.

Have a good trek yourselves - we looked at going to Rupshu but we thought that the prolonged high altitude and remoteness would not be good plan when trekking with 6 kids!

Do you have any tips for a first time Ladakh camper?

[thesilvertops]

Hi Paul

You'll be well on your way when we get there so, have a good trip.

Tips:

1. Treat or boil all water. Remember that boiling point is lower at altitude so boil for longer.

2. If you buy fruit from trailside vendors, wash thoroughly with or stand it in treated water for some time before eating.

3. Take a football or similar with you so the kids can play and the local kids can join in. Breaks the ice, all the kids have a good time and you might get some good photos as well.

4. If there are two toilets make sure you use the right one. They have a system where one is used this year and the other next. All human waste goes on the fields whereas animal waste is collected, dried and burnt as fuel.

5. Have a great time, it's a wonderful place and the people are lovely.

http://www.pbase.com/thesilvertops/image/62189318.jpg
Our camp at Lamayuru - July 27th 2000

[Sujoy]

I did two treks there is the last two years:
Rumtse to Tso Moriri and then
from Lamayuru to Padum
still quite awesome!
Have a great trip!
Envious!

[cyclingpaul]

Guys, re the floods in Leh, would you go or stay at home!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Paul

[thesilvertops]

Hi Paul

I've just picked up on this after reading your message. Sounds like they've had a hell of a storm:

http://www.ndtv.com/article/india/leh-flash-floods-44-dead-many-missing-42357?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+ndtv%2FLsgd+%28NDTV+News+-+India%29

I've contacted my travel company (Exodus Travels in London) and am waiting for their reply. We have a week to go but you're due to go this weekend aren't you. Are you travelling independently?

I've just watched the video in that report and I think it is probably a no-go. I don't think they'll want tourists around for a few days maybe even a few weeks whilst it's all sorted.

[cyclingpaul]

Yes independent travel, were going tomorrow.

I am still thinking about it but on balance at the moment we will not be going.

A tradgedy for Leh, just a lost holiday for us.

[thesilvertops]

It looks like the flooding has come down from behind the palace and hit the town square on. A lot of damage is evident. Agree wholeheartedly about the loss - it's only money for us. I expect Exodus will send us elsewhere.

[thesilvertops]

Paul

This is the reply I have had from Exodus:

We have been talking to our local operator in India all day about this as we currently have 2 groups in Leh and another 4 trekking with another 2 to follow tomorrow.

Presently we plan to run all trips as normal, with changes in trekking routes if necessary ( but at the moment we do not think this is necessary). The airport in Leh is closed at the moment but there are rumours it will open in a day or so.

So with regards to your group it should run as normal. Obviously we are monitoring the situation very closely and if something changed with regards to your trip we would let you know.

Are you due in Leh on Sunday or Monday?

[cyclingpaul]

Silvertops we have cancelled the trip.

It did not seem right in the circumstances.

It was a difficult decision as there is a lack of information from locals, the internet contains mainly opinions/comments from people who may know the area but who are not there on the ground.

In a week I am sure it will be OK and Exodus will look after you. My outfit is local and I have not been able to contact them at all.

[Sujoy]

Hi Cycling Paul and Silver tops
this is information from India.
The Leh airport has opened and flights are expected to run from today.
However there have been a lot of landslides and it is possible that the roads may not be open
The Army is working to clear the debris and open the highways as soon as possible.
Re trekking you need to reach the roadhead first.
I think it should be all right in about a week or so provided that there is no further rain or landslides
Good luck!

[Sujoy]

Further update from a friend of mine in Delhi:

The airport is operational. My brother Panki is in Leh right now and reported that there is heavy casualty even on zing zing bar where people trying to cross were buried under a landslide. The army aircraft is rescuing people. Old and kids go first and then the rest. There has been no indication of any tourists dying so far. Airtel mobiles are working. You can see video here http://ibnlive.in.com/news/leh-flash...from=network18

We just hope that the road and air transport is resumed soon. As of now i wouldn't advise anybody to travel to Ladakh for the next 10 days. The road to Rohtang and Spiti is open but again all the rivers are flowing above the danger mark so floods cannot be ruled out.

[thesilvertops]

Paul

Sorry to hear about your trip but I feel you have made the right decision. I think things will be chaotic for many days and it's probably best to stay out of their way. We are waiting on Exodus but my feeling is that we will be offered an alternative trip or route.

Sujoy, thanks for your information. Can you keep us updated?

[cyclingpaul]

Thanks Sujoy and Silvertops, I temper my disappointment with the thought that others are more badly affected than me, and I should be thankful I have to option to choose not to go. It was the right choice.

Our local agent is still out of contact but I have spoken to his Delhi man and he had no firm news of what the trekking conditions are like in the hills or at the trailheads. It may be that case that things are bad but news has not yet emerged. The flood water must have flowed downstream and hit the various bridges. We were due to trek from Lamayuru and I think at least one big bridge on the way there at Nimo is down.

From what I can see in the news reports, rescuers are still at work in Leh and the death toll is rising. Tourists are helping with the relief effort. It looks grim and I would say it will be at least a week before the immediate rescue effort is over. It was raining again on Sat morning.

My airline ( Jet ) have said that their flights ran this morning but I could only speak to a call centre in the UK - they did not even know that Leh had been flooded..

Anyway, we have decided we will try again next year.....

[Sujoy]

Hi Cycling Paul
It is the correct decision. I am in touch with my friend in Leh he runs a trekking business and he feels it will be some time before the situation becomes stable.
The airlines Jet Kingfisher and Indian airlines ran three flights each today to evacuate the tourists so I think more people are leaving Leh than going in.
I have a friend who is stuck in Kaza in Spiti. She was to trek across Parang la to tso Moriri.
I am sure we are all feeling very bad about this. Lets hope the rain abates and there is no further calamity.
The Indian Army is doing a great job as far as relief and rehab work is concerned.
Sujoy

[Sujoy]

A friend of mine who was in Leh

iFirst-hand account of Leh floods
I was able to fly out of Leh today to Delhi. I have limited access to internet and won't be able to respond, but I thought I'd share some first-hand information on the situation there.

The cloudburst began sometime around 12:30 on the night of August 5th. I was staying at a guest house in old town Leh. The rain came down so hard that I first thought hail was banging against my windows. I soon heard shouting in the streets. I grabbed my flashlight (no electricity in Leh at this point) and went out to the balcony to see that the ground floor of my guest house was filling with water. A neighbor and I went to wake up the owner and the other guests to warn them of the danger. The owner and his family frantically tried to blockade the door with a sheet of zinc and sandbags to prevent more water from entering the building.

The water continued to rise as we tourists tried to quickly pack our most important belongings in the rain and darkness. The neighbors kept shouting for us get out of the house. I couldn't understand why at the time. My instinct in a flash flood was to climb upstairs as high as possible. I only understood the next day, that the houses in Ladakh are often not built to withstand a cloudburst like this and that the neighbors were afraid the roof or the house itself might collapse. The water rose to about 4 feet at its deepest in the street, and about 2 1/2 feet in the guesthouse before the heavy rain stopped and the water began to recede. Locals said that they had never seen rain like this in 75years.

It was only the next morning that the scope of the devastation became gradually apparent. All stores were closed and people began to move en masse to the the worst hit area of the bus station that was flattened by mudslides. When I arrived at mid-morning, 4 bulldozers were at work removing heavy debri. Along side them, hundreds of volunteers, both locals and many tourists, formed human chains to remove dirt and debri by hand, hoping that they might find survivors underneath the mud. Unfortunately, in the time that I was working there, only bodies were pulled out.

Some roads were covered in mud and debri. The airport was closed, there was no electricity, and only one cellphone company was working. Most of the town was still largely intact though and tourists wandered the streets trying to find open restaurants and gathering in groups to share information. By Friday afternoon several cyber cafes had opened and very slow internet (via satellite) was available.

That first day, (Friday August 6th) there was little sign of government or military presence in Leh. (There were places I didn't go such as the hospital or makeshift morgue, however, where they may have been present). With a lack of any clear authority or organizing force, rumors and fear abounded. The skies over the mountains were dark and stormy on late Friday afternoon and a rumor spread that another flash flood was coming. People began to run and drive in a panic trying to find high ground. It's easy to understand why. Given the death toll the night before, nerves were shattered.

The news media arrived in Leh and Choglamsar on Saturday August 7th along with some aid and a more visible military presence. As of today (Sunday August 8th), however, there has been little news of the fate of people in the villages. Trekkers hiking into Leh, report seeing bodies of local people at the mudslides and I fear the death toll will be significant.

Dozens, maybe hundreds of tourists were also trapped by the floods in the villages and mountains. Efforts have been underway to rescue foreign nationals who are still stranded. I've heard unconfirmed (again unconfirmed, only third-hand) accounts that a small number of foreign trekkers may have been injured and/or killed. Those trekkers who were able to hike back to Leh have some harrowing stories to tell. What started out as a fun holiday trek, turned into a life-threatening ordeal in the space of just an hour of rain. One family group from the UK (who have been interviewed on India TV) had to abandon all their belongings and cross many kilometers of dangerous mudslides and flooded rivers on foot with 5 children in tow. The trekkers emphasize the courage and selflessness of their Ladakh guides, who in some instances risked their own lives to save tourists and lead them to safety. Stranded trekkers also received help from the Indian military who offered transportation and shelter. Many monks and hotel owners have made amazing efforts to help tourists and keep them safe.

For those who are considering travel plans to Ladakh this month, the most optimistic estimate I heard was 7 to 10 days to open the road to Manali again. This assumes that no more damaging rain will fall. If the rains continue, even the town of Leh will not be completely safe. The airport is open and today was mobbed with people who are trying to leave Leh. This will be a serious blow to the Ladakh economy. If the road reopens and the conditions are safe in the future, Ladakhians would certainly welcome the return of tourists.

Finally, my deepest sympathies for the people of Ladakh who have suffered devasting personal and economic losses. It's an amazing place with wonderful people.

[thesilvertops]

Hi Sujoy

Many thanks for your updates, they're very useful. It's looking increasingly likely that our trip will be cancelled. The UK Foreign and Commonwealth Office has issued a No Travel to Ladakh recommendation and until it's lifted we can't go. This is because travel insurance is invalid if you go against FCO advice. We have to wait until Wednesday to know definitely what is happening.

[Sujoy]

Hi Silvertops
I dont think it is a very good idea to go just now even though the flights are running. Can you push the trip back by a bit say September first week?
Sujoy

[Sujoy]

some more information about trekkers in zanskar

Leh cloudburst: 81 foreigners rescued from Zanskar valley

Snehesh Alex Philip Leh, Aug 9 (PTI) Eighty one foreigners and six tour guides were today rescued by the Indian Air Force from the 11,000-feet high picturesque Zanskar valley after being stranded there for over three days. The IAF carried out a record 62 sorties by Chetak helicopters in five and half hours to bring back 81 foreign campers from the narrow valley who were stuck there since intervening night of August 5 and 6 after cloudburst and flash floods wreaked havoc in Leh and surrounding areas. The foreigners rescued include 17 British and French nationals, nine people from the Netherlands, eight from Czechoslovakia, seven Germans and four Israelis. "We received information on late Sunday evening that about 150 foreigners were stuck in the Zanskar valley. Our operation started at about 5:30 AM and ended by about 11 AM," Air Vice Marshall J Chauhan, Air Officer Commanding for Jammu and Kashmir, said. The IAF flew the small five seater Chetak helicopter rather than the MI-17 as the valley was narrow. "The valley was so narrow that even the Chetak found it tough to turn around. We had to land on hard surface as there was no helipad there," said Wing Commander Manish V Patel, who was heading the operation and made the first sortie. Asked if it was a record feat, Chauhan said, "I think we have not done so many sorties. It is a record of sort." Though the initial information said there were about 150 odd stranded foreigners, the actual numbers was 81, IAF officials said. Meanwhile, the IAF has brought in about 100 tonnes of materials, including BSNL equipment, since the disaster struck.

[thesilvertops]

Hi Sujoy

I dont think it is a very good idea to go just now even though the flights are running. Can you push the trip back by a bit say September first week?

You're quite right and I expect Exodus will come to the same decision. Unfortunately, I'm waiting for an operation and I asked for it to be done in September so that I could make this trip to Ladakh. After I've had the op I will not be able walk far for a few days and it will take 3/4 weeks for me to be okay again. We might look at doing our own trip possibly to Nepal later this year.

[Sujoy]

Yes back to Nepal! I am leading a group to EBC and Chukung in April 2011.
Hope to take a look at the Khopra ridge in winter.

[cyclingpaul]

Thanks for the continuing info Sujoy.

Yes, I too am thinking of doing a quick trip to Nepal this Winter season, now that we have cancelled our Ladakh trip.

Perhaps the Ganesh Himal after all?!

[Sujoy]

I have never done Ganesh Himal! One for the future!

[thesilvertops]

Exodus have been in touch today are they are now hoping to run our trek a week later. That would see us arrive in Leh on the 23rd Sptember. 11 of the original 16 clients are able to do that but it all depends on a lot of things so still not sure. They hope to confirm one way or the other on Monday next.

Ganesh Himal looks a very attractive part of Nepal. There ought to be a good trekking route through that area.

[thesilvertops]

Hi CyclingPaul and Sujoy,

Our trip to Leh and Ladakh is on again! The FCO has revised it's travel advice. We fly to Delhi on the 21st/22nd and on to Leh on the 23rd. We have been warned that our trek route might be adjusted depending on conditions. Will report back on our return.

[Sujoy]

Great good luck and safe trekking!

[thesilvertops]

We're now back home in the Uk so here is my report on the situation in Leh and Ladakh and also on our trek from Rumtse to Kibber. We were in Leh from Monday 22nd to Thursday 25th August. When we arrived there, tourists were noticeable by their absence. However, by the time we left, there were many more around. The situation in Leh town was more or less normal.
The flash flood came down the valley from the north of town, past what used to be a rubbish tip and down through the bus station area and on to the Indus. There is considerable damage in the bus station area with buildings destroyed/damaged and rubble/silt in some quantity. However, this pales into insignificance when compared to the village of Choglamsar, a few km SE of Leh. A cloudburst in the vicinity of Sabu to the north caused a massive flash flood to enter Choglamsar. It appears that the flood was trapped in the main street by the buildings and ran along the street until it was able to escape into the Indus. The roller shutters on shop fronts have been burst in and the rooms behind filled with silt and rocks to 1 or 2 metres deep. The main street is lined on both sides with piles of rock, stones and silt. We saw little evidence of this being cleared. A one-way system was in operation to cope with traffic. Two very damaged cars now sit on the far bank of the Indus having been carried there by the flood waters. Tibetan refugees seem to have suffered most with many killed and their homes destroyed. Villages further along the road have suffered to a lesser extent, i.e. Thikse. The road from Upshi to Rumtse has been totally destroyed and will not re-open for some time. Our guide said that
there is no evidence of the existence of the road in the landscape. It's just disappeared. To get to Rumtse from Leh (normally less than 2 hours drive) we had to drive from Leh to Mahe Bridge, then to Tso Kar and then on to Rumtse from the south. It took just under 11 hours with stops!

Markha valley was completely cutoff. An Exodus group managed to complete a version of the Markha valley trek a week ago but had many problems. All of the bridges have been swept away and every river crossing had to be waded. A number of homes are still buried under mud/rubble and there are believed to still be bodies buried there. A small number of trekkers (4?) are believed to be missing. Throughout our trek we saw evidence of flash flooding. Deep gouges wend their way down the sides of valleys terminating in huge piles of rock/silt. Sometimes, the piles are so big that they can be regarded as new ridges. The big problem in the villages hit by flooding is that the rock/silt has dried out and set hard. It has to be broken up piece by piece with a pickaxe before it can be removed. Very hard work if you have several cubic meters to remove. I took no photos of the destruction out of respect for the victims of the floods.


The Trek

The trek from Rumtse to Kibber was very tough. After the first day's hiking we were at or above 4500 metres for 11 days. The first 6 days to Tso Moriri involved crossing 7 passes with 6 over 5000m. One day involved two passes, the first at 5440 metres and the second, 5420 metres with a 300 metre drop in between. From Tso Moriri, we hiked in towards the Parang La for 4 days, crossed the pass early on the fifth, and walked out to Kibber on the 6th. We had to complete several river crossings and the Parang Char was the most difficult and most dangerous. Unfortunately, we had to cross at about midday and it would have been much better to cross at first light before the sun got to work on the glaciers. The weather was excellent, although too hot for the first 3 days. We only had one very brief shower whilst hiking along Tso Moriri. We only saw a few other trekkers - perhaps 35 at most - whilst on trek and we never had to share a camp site. Overall, fantastic, tough trek.

Sujoy - some notes for you.

You say that you would like to hike from Kibber to Korzok next year. You might like to consider going the other
way although I appreciate acclimatisation is possibly the reason for your choice. Here is a brief description of the route for you:

Leaving Kibber, the route follows a track and a path through fields before you descend sharply into a river gorge at about 4200/4300m. Cross the foot bridge and follow the smaller gorge straight ahead. Climb out of the gorge in about 45 minutes and keep walking ahead. You will drop down to some fields and a couple of buildings. The path then veers to the right and heads up to a small pass (as our guide called it) at 4730m. The trail then drops gently down to a camp site at 4565m. The path becomes steeper as you drop down into the gorge (same one as before) and to the river at about 4300m. Turn left, cross the river and make your way along for about 2 hours before the trail heads off uphill on the right. You will probably need to do 3 river crossings whilst in the gorge! You now have a steep, very rocky, and very uncomfortable hike up the hill to the Parang La - something like 1200/1300 metres of ascent. There is a camping place at around 5000 metres. This is the south side base camp. The Parang La is at 5580/5590 metres. Only a little snow on south side but a long glacier on north side. You will have to choose a route onto the glacier depending on conditions at the time. Head down the centre of the glacier (no crevasses) and bear left as you reach the snout. North side base camp is on the left side about 1 kilometre from the glacier. From here you will need to keep on the left side until a valley comes in from the right. Then cross the Parang Char and the side valley river. The trail now keeps on the right side until the final crossing of the Parang La just before the end of the valley (2 days hiking). Before you turn left to head for Tso Moriri, you need to cross the Parang Char one final time near Norbu Sumdo. Try to do this crossing at dawn. We did it at noon and it was very difficult. We had two ropes and lots of helpers. Margaret was washed off her feet but hung on to the rope and the cook boys and other trekkers managed to get her to the side somehow. She was soaked and we had to find dry clothes for her. Be aware that there are only a couple of camp sites in this section from the Parang La. Although there are a number of flat areas to pitch tents, there is little grazing for ponies, most having been destroyed by the flash floods. There are places to stop between Norbu Sumdo and Kyangdam(Tso Moriri) but the ground is very wet and you will be pestered by flies and mosquitoes - Yes!, mosquitoes of some sort. I had one bite me, it looked like a mosquito and when I killed it, it was full of blood - my blood! I thought they were'nt found above about 1500m. We only stopped for a couple of minutes then we got out of there fast. There is camping at Kyangdam and the next camping is at Korzok. No camping is allowed along the Tso Moriri. Korzok is.....uninspiring. However, I enjoyed a visit to the Gompa and there is a nice Mani/Chorten wall. You can also buy supplies, etc.,

If you send me a private message with email address, I will send you a GPS/Google Earth data file so that you view the trail.

Photos will be on my site soon and I will publish the web address on the forum when they're ready.

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I've recently finished a rather unconventional trek through Dhading, near the Ganesh Himal, hiking from Syabrubesi (Rasua) to Gorkha. Assuming that some people may be interested to hear about the area then here are a few of my comments.

This is not a "normal" trekking route, its certainly not listed in the Lonely Planet. We went a whole week without seeing another westerner. There are very few lodges and as we didn't have a tent we had to rely on local hospitality for food and shelter. This means it is necessary to sleep on a floor matt and eat dal bhat every day (neither being a problem for me). The locals speak a mixture of (often) Nepali and (usually) Tamang (we met Gurung and Sherpa, plus others). My guide (Naran Ghale) was absolutely essential, he saw to all my modest needs, carried my bag and sometimes even cooked. He knew the route (or how to find it) and led me places that I would never have managed to travel without his aid.

It would be possible to explore this area with a small camping group but it would not be and immersive in the local culture. I didn't have to eat my dal bhat using my hand, but it seemed appropriate and that's what I did. I had a unique and personal experience, quite different from the standard treks on the main routes.

Route
Syabrubesi - Gatlang - Somdang - Tipling - Borang - Lapa - Tawal - Majuwa - Lapibesi - Korlakholabesi - Laprak - Barpak - Sarkigaon - Gorkha

Trek notes
Starting in Syabrubesi we head west, up the steep hill on the opposite side to the Langtang valley then follow the road round the hillside to the top end of the village of Gatlang. The villages in this valley are the "Tamang Heritage Trail", our lodgings for the night would best be described as "home-stay".

Day 2 follow the Road to Somdang, not actually on the road but taking the direct route up the hill and repeatedly crossing the road as it zigzag up through the rhododendron forest, over the ridge and down to the village of Somdang. This place used to service the now disused mine, now there are nearly two lodges. We spent two nights here with a day hike up to Jaisuli Kunda (4500m)

The road continues a short way up the hill from Somdang then stops quite abruptly before the kharka below Pansang Danda (3740m). We cross the pass (not taking the high route south over the hills to Betrawati) and descend the long steep trail down through blooming rhododendron forest to the village of Tipling. Although Tipling is larger than Somdang there are no lodges, we stay in the 'pasal' ('shop', but its more like a storeroom)

Next day is on a good trail as we go down the valley, through the village of Sertung and smaller agricultural settlements. Weather is beautiful and we have some occasional views up towards the Ganesh Himal. Borang is a large village, we head downhill to below the village and find a home-stay in a delightful end terrace residence. My room is an extension above the veranda, 3' wide, 4' high and 8' long; on the floor is a bamboo matt and the walls are lined with newspaper from November 2004 (I was in Kanchenjunga at the time it was printed), a lovely place to stay.

We cross the Akhu Khola and head a short way up the side of an adjacent valley to the village of Lapa. Quite a large village with a good stream running through its centre, it has a "youth group building" a church and something of a hostel where they offer me a choice of meat or fish with my dal bhat!

Over Barmachet Danda and through Kachet we follow a number of difficult (in many ways) paths and trails until we find our way through Rigaon and (at last!) to Tawal, tired hungry and rained upon we gratefully receive hospitality and shelter.

Next day is much easier, we cross a river valley and up over a ridge then contour round to Majuwa - this is Naran's home village, we stay at his house, meet his family and of course have a most hearty welcome.

From Majuwa we go round to cross into the valley of the Buri Gandaki. On the opposite side to the road coming up from Arughat we pass through Manbu (teahouse with chop suey for lunch) and descend slowly down to the river where we cross over and stay at a trekkers lodge in Lapubesi. We are back on the tourist routes.

One (short) day up the Buri Gandaki valley we stop at Korlakholabesi, a good lodge with nice freshly ground home-grown coffee. The lodge is busy with a camping group and assorted locals (mostly all heading to/from the Tsum Valley) but I have a good room and tasty food.

Up over the big ridge, with stops in Laprak & Barpak. This trail isn't busy but its used more than I had expected for groups to start the round Manaslu circuit (from Gorkha rather than Arughat). Presently we come down into the Daraudi Khola valley, it is open and flat, the road is pushing up it and we make quick progress down towards Gorkha.

We stop in a bhatti at Sarkigaon, near the bottom of the hill rising up to Gorkha. They don't get many guests there now that the locals all ride the bus up to town. On our last day the Maoists hijacked all the buses to take their cadres to a rally so we all have to hike up to Gorkha on foot.

Google map (http://tinyurl.com/3ygukxv)

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I'll post more details if anyone has any questions or I recall some useful anecdote, and of course a link to the photos when I get some up on Flickr.

Sharon: I'd be very interested to know what route you took, if you recall the details of placenames...?

Hi Oli, I'm very interested by your feedback on your Ganesh trek because I would also to do a trek in this area:
-how did you meet your guide-porter?
-is it easy to find a pasal or another place in each village to lunch & to sleep?
thanks in advance for your reply
perhaps could we talk directly by mail? ciao