The Road Around Annapurna

[Suginami]

http://www.nepalmountainnews.com/news.php/2007/09/01/annapurna-region-seeking-alternative-trekking-route.html

The details of the road were not clear to me until I read this. Jeeps from Jomsom to Lete? Jeeps up to Muktinath? So I don't need to hike anymore.

Should this put me off the A trek? I was sort of thinking of dropping into Jomson and doing the walk back but I am not sure now.

[joleg74]

As I mentioned in my previous post (http://trekinfo.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8614), I feel that this is the worst part of the AC trek that you intended to do! I honestly suggested to people doing the AC to take the plane to Pokhara in Jomsom, and skip the once famous "Royal Trek" as it's being butchered as we speak.

I have a few pictures of the disaster:

Construction near Tatopani (http://picasaweb.google.com/jocelynlegault/Nepal2007BestOf/photo#5122803338600991218)
More construction near Tatopani (http://picasaweb.google.com/jocelynlegault/Nepal2007BestOf/photo#5122803351485893122)
Crossing roadwork, again near Tatopani (http://picasaweb.google.com/jocelynlegault/Nepal2007BestOf/photo#5122803372960729650)
A Jeep in Jomsom (http://picasaweb.google.com/jocelynlegault/Nepal2007UnusualFunnies/photo#5122805752372613410)
A Jeep on the Road between Tukuche and Larjung (http://picasaweb.google.com/jocelynlegault/Nepal2007UnusualFunnies/photo#5122805791027319138)


They are doing the same on the other side, between Besisahar and Manang, but the effects are much less as of yet. I'd go that way if I were you. Besisahar to Jomsom, crossing the Thorong La. Hurry while it's still beautiful. :(

Here are some pictures of both sides (http://picasaweb.google.com/jocelynlegault/Nepal2007BestOf) (the nice one and the ugly one) from my September trek so you can make up your mind as which side you want to visit!

[Suginami]

Thanks very much. Very good pictures. How sad to see jeeps on that beautiful stretch. Now I have to find out what damage has been done to Langtang.

Love the pictures taken in Chitwan of the Annapurna range.

[ChrisU]

Hi,
I'm just back from trekking round Annapurna last week.
http://chrisupson.blogspot.com/2007/11/around-annapurna-in-10-days.html
There are long sections of the circuit that have already been mutilated by the "road" construction.
However don't let this put you off. There are still plenty of good sections of trail. However it was a huge relief when I reached Tatopani to branch off up the hill to Ghorepani, and be back on small unspoilt footpaths, rather than ugly great dusty jeep tracks.

[Escher]

I had a look at your blog and gasped at the fast pace you must have set. Then it dawned on me that you must be Chris from the FRA forum. There aren't many trekkers who get up to the Thorung La in 7 days from KTM.

I just logged into FRA and saw that you sent me another message back in September to which I didn't reply. Sorry about that, I hang around on this forum too much and haven't been over on FRA for a while. Been sat at home with a groin strain dreaming about mountains instead of running. Anyway I guess that you sorted out what to do with visa's in the end! If you managed to stop running a while and took some pictures of your Annapurna trip we would love to see them over here. I am off again to do AC for the third time in Feb, I just hope that that road doesn't detract too much.

You must have been a bit of a local novelty over there as you ran past hoards of trekkers. I am sure there would have been lots of grumbling and mumbling at the mad guy running around the AC! You must acclimatise exceptionally well. Glad you had a nice trip.

[Per]

You must have been a bit of a local novelty over there as you ran past hoards of trekkers.

Some guys did it already in 1981, they had jogged the Everest trail too. The arrived late in Manang and left early the next morning.

[Escher]

Isn't there some sort of adventure/trail/fell race that goes over the Thorung La? I know of the Everest marathon but in, I think it was, 2002 I was somewhere near to Jharkot when numbered runners came past. It was interesting becuase for at least an hour or two all the runners were Nepali, after them the elite europeans came through. They looked like seriously fit scandavians, germans; a mixture of europeans but depsite their obvious athletic prowess they were miles behind the Nepali runners. I don't think anyone can touch them at altitude apart from the odd rare genetic freak.

[Suginami]

In a couple of years or less there will be motorbike races over the pass and XTreme something or other. Sponsors flags and you name it.

Still, Nepal does not have to stay in the stone age I suppose.

[ChrisU]

Hi guys,
Yes - I'm the same Chris from the FRA forum.
I guess I cranked out some reasonably long days on the AC, but I was far from running the whole way. Although I did run a fair bit from Muktinath to Tatopani - along that massive jeep track.

Contrary to what you assumed, I actually don't acclimatise at all well. I had a blinding headache during the night at both Letdar and Thorung Phedi - otherwise I could have crossed the Thorung pass a day earlier.

I saw people on mountain bikes and horses crossing the pass, so I'm sure you could do it on a motorbike.

There are various races I know of around Annapurna:
Yak Attack bike race:
http://www.yak-attack.co.uk/

Annapurna Mandala Trail Race:
http://runraid.free.fr/courses/nepal.php
Organised by Base Camp Trek:
http://www.basecamptrek.com/english/trailsvtt.php

There's currently a race from Kathmandu to Dolpo in progress.
Himal Race:
http://www.basecamptrek.com/english/trailsvtt.php

I tried one of these multi-stage races in 2004 in the Everest region, but didn't enjoy it at all.

[Suginami]

HOw far does the road come in now from Beni? Does it actually reach Tatopani? Does that mean I could get there in car? Sounds horrible but I might consider that and spend a long week working my way all around Gorapani

[Sharon]

What I have loved about Nepal is the total immersion in the present. No distractions from radio, phones, tv's etc. I guess as someone else said they don't need to stay in the stone age on my account.
In Lo manthang there are jeeps full of smoking chinese drinking beer in the tea house on a day trip from Tibet. Jeeps and dirt bikes between Jomsom, Muktinat. Change is coming for the nepalis and more tourists as well. We are the casualities.

[Per]

Change is coming for the nepalis and more tourists as well. We are the casualities.

Yes, and no, the frontiers of trekking certainly changes but there are plenty of places to hike. The other day I did some ‘vicarious trekking’ with http://earth.google.com/

In Nepal I think one of the finest areas would be west of Jomosom, say between Jomosom and Mugu Karnali. It will be several decades before they get to build roads up there. You can even hike across high passes to Mustang and stay within the Nepalese borders.

[Spaceman347]

There is a nice description of a trek out in that general area here (http://www.myhimalayas.com/dolpo/index.htm) and there definitely doesn't sound like there are too many roads, hardly any trails in a lot of places apparently.

[Per]

Unfortunately, u can´t hike at liberty in the area. It will be a long time before the nepalese open it up, as the government has virtually no control up there.

I remember the first time I was in Langtang, in 1972, the Nepalese government had stationed a bureaucrat up there, a newar I think, and he was absolutely convinced that they had posted him in a foreign outlandish country. He did not know the language, did not fit in with the locals, and hated being there.

[Sharon]

Actually Pemba and I were talking about that area this past trip. Maybe that will be the next trek....

[Per]

There is some splendid hiking, rather like Tibet and Ladakh, you can stay on high elevation for weeks. I would avoid the southern approach routes, it is far, lots of ups and dows, and either start from Simikot or Kaghbeni and come out via the Hidden Valley to Marpha.

[Landfall38]

The road...

We decided to do the AC this Nov for our 3rd time because of the "coming" road.

First, the whole AC remains an excellent and worthwhile trek -- do it soon though! (It is no longer one on the "world's top 10 walks", but still a good one.)

The progress of the road since our last AC trek (2002) really surprised us. I expect that the road will finally go all the way from Beni to Muktinah in only a few years. Right now, sections below Ghasa and below Dana&Tatopani are only in early stages of construction (but very active). The road DOES go from Ghasa to Muktinah, with regular vehicle access from Lete up. (landslide just below Lete makes it only barely passable for motorcycles).

Still not enough traffic (plus many places where trail and road are different) to ruin the trek.

On Manang side: There are no vehicles; no motorcycles. I agree, the road construction does not hurt the walk (with exception perhaps of the section below the Paundi Danda which is an eyesore but mostly possible to detour). Bus now goes from Dumre to Bhulbule (rough ride) with landrovers going a further 6 km towards syange. Then NO construction Syange to Dharapani -- which means no complete road for many years. Above Bagarchap/Danygayu (Sp?) major construction on route towards Tanchok. Route from Latamarang to Chame is NO longer possible due to dangerous rockfall from road above (it always was subject to landslides -- but now the rocks are too many/too big). Road in places actually makes walking easier/faster. No road construction or any hint above Manang.

There are alternative trails -- some need developing for trekkers (esp on the Jomson side). On the Manang side, the "high route" via Gyaru excels.

Finally, the trail above Tatopani to sikha, chitre and either ghorepani or deurali and then down other side has absolutely no road construction and is one of the most beuatiful sections of AC!!!