trekking in Solu Khumbu in January - finished

[triste]

Hello,

Though it's my first post in this forum, I would like to share some of my recent experiences. I just returned from a 23 days trekking (2 - 24 January) in Solu Khumbu region, with less than 9 kg equipments (including water & camera), and, with some unusual events:

in Jiri, I followed two homecoming Sherpas for two and a half days;

invited by Everest summitteer (guess what for?);

in Langden, found that no lodge was opened;

across Renjo La alone, marginally success;

attempted Cho La with porter, but failed;

across Kongma La with porter, well, "just a long day walk";

Tengboche to Lukla in one day, and just managed to buy a ticket to leave on the following day.

Hope that my experiences could help other trekkers, I'll start the story from equipments, asap.

[Ripper]

Thanks for the update, what happend on the passes? Why was it marginal, why did you fail? Please share.

[yakshaver]

Hello,

Though it's my first post in this forum, I would like to share some of my recent experiences. I just returned from a 23 days trekking (2 - 24 January) in Solu Khumbu region, with less than 9 kg equipments (including water & camera), and, with some unusual events:

in Jiri, I followed two homecoming Sherpas for two and a half days;

invited by Everest summitteer (guess what for?);

in Langden, found that no lodge was opened;

across Renjo La alone, marginally success;

attempted Cho La with porter, but failed;

across Kongma La with porter, well, "just a long day walk";

Tengboche to Lukla in one day, and just managed to buy a ticket to leave on the following day.

Hope that my experiences could help other trekkers, I'll start the story from equipments, asap.


Triste, really looking forward to more details, and pics if possible... This would be great.

In the meantime, as I am in a confused mood, and trying hard to cheer myself up, let me try some interpretations for some of your actions, sparsely described above.

1. Followed the two homecoming Sherpas for two and a half days... - Where they soo good looking? I guess so. Did you exchange moblile numbers and emails? Could you only keep up with them for two and a half days, after which they got away from you?

2. You were invited by an Everest summiteer... My guess is that he or she invited you for a) a bottle or two of Everest beer, and they mentioned nothing of their exploits; you didn't ask either; b) then you got involved paying a gave of Monopoly, the French version; c) whoever lost had to trek the rest of the trek naked - kind of like strip-***** but more extreme, given the fact we deal with an Everest summiteer (kinky those French). Obviously you lost.

3. No lodge in Langden would open for you, in your state of stark-nakedness... I mean, this is Nepal not Saint-Tropez...

4. Marginal success on Renjo La and faliure on Cho La was probably due to exposure (in more ways than one...; the poor porter was probably left psychologically scarred for life).

5. Kongma La was just a piece of cake by now, as you have gotten the knack of walking sartorially bereft in the Himal. People probably thought you were the Luscious Yeti Man. Beware of Sharon and Julia, 'cause they'll be after you, if they get a whiff of this (did you shower?).

6. Tengpoche to Lukla in one day. Yes, I would have also run extremely fast through Namche and Phakding if I was in my bare touschy... The dogs would have been in a state of rage... Santa once run from Nobby Hill (Scoundrel's point, beyond the 5th lake in gokyo - that's after he went on Gokyo ri first thing in the morning) to Namche Bazaar to catch up with me, in one day - and he needed some vaseline for some sensitive parts of his body which got a bit frayed. I guess you were spared this suffering, as the moisture on your body dried imediately - no clothes on, and all that.

7. My question is, how did you managed to get on naked on the aircraft? Or perhaps they decided you pose no security threat the way you are "dressed"...

I hope you don't take me too seriously... By the sound of it, you had an eventful adventure.

[triste]

Thanks for the update, what happend on the passes? Why was it marginal, why did you fail? Please share.

Then I start this part first.

When I arrived Langden on 11 january, I found that though there're new houses, the whole village was nearly empty. As I approached my targeted lodge, my nightmare became true: no lodge was opened at that time.

http://homepage.mac.com/cherish/images/trekking/big/b0638.jpg
Langden, a quiet little village


Before going back to Marulung, which is about an hour journey, I met a villager at the last house, so I did my best (broken English & body language) to request to sleep in his house for one night; luckily, he accepted.

http://homepage.mac.com/cherish/images/trekking/big/b0645.jpg
The kind villager.


It's about 2 p.m., I wandered around to see the trail leading to Renjo La, I spotted two trekkers came down from it :) Well, I waited and welcomed them to the "no-lodge-land".

We went to the villager's house and took some tea, we exchanged information, that's:

no snow, no ice on trail, "just a long day walk", the Dutch couple took 3 hours up and 3 hours down;
all you need is a good shoes;
3 - 4 lodges opened in Gokyo.

and,

no lodge in Langden, 1 lodge in Marulung is opened

Then, they decided to continue to go to Marulung, as the villager's house is not big enough to accept three guests; and, I decided to across Renjo La on the following day.

3 p.m., I didn't have lunch yet, I asked about food, and found that the villager only had a few unopened big jars of jam, several bags of instant noodle; and some water-boiled-potatoes. Well, my lunch was some pieces of potatoes, and dinner was instant noodle. BTW, I also bought a bag instant noodle from him.

12 January, cloudy and cold, I started the trek at 7:30 a.m.

Let me describe how cold it was: I took a mug of water from house to outdoor for brushing teeth, when I finished brushing, the water was frozen. I needed to use the handle of toothbrush to break the ice, got some water, and, the ice was in cylinder shape.

http://homepage.mac.com/cherish/images/trekking/big/b0654.jpg
Anyone who don't find the trail?

The trail to Renjo La is significant, you can't miss it. About snow, no snow on trail. About ice, well, it's not absolutely no ice covering the trail, there're several occasions that the trail intersected with a river, and the stream was frozen. Fortunately it's easy to pass through, with caution.

BUT, I missed a point that Renjo La is 5340m, Gokyo is 4750m, and Langden is about 4350m.

At about noon, I arrived a frozen lake, there's a huge stone staircase leading to the ridge, some prayer flags was flying there. I guessed it was Renjo La, it was several hundred meters higher than my location, then I discovered the fact that, for me, ascent from langden to Renjo La is about 1000m, and descent from Renjo La to Gokyo is about 600m.

I ate the instant noodle with cold water, then climbed the stone staircase. Though the staircase is well constructed, I felt extremely tired to climb. I stopped for rest and breath every few steps. Finally I reached Renjo La, it was 2 p.m.

I was very happy at this moment, I did the crossing alone, in winter time. After taking some photos, I started to descend.

Well, I followed the trail for an hour, thought it was not significant. Then, I reached a location that my right hand side was an ice waterfall, my left hand size was a cliff, it was 15:26 p.m. At that moment, I was panic, and though about dead, as I didn't know about rock climbing or ice climbing.

After a few minutes, I calmed down and reconsidered the situation; concluded that:

I followed the trail to current location
about 2 hours daylight before dark
I can see Gokyo, maybe some villagers would recuse me when they see my flashing headlamp at night
I can see a significant trail down there

Then I retraced the trail to my location, and found a trail near the iced waterfall. But it was so steep and was full of scree. Anyway, it's better than waterfall or cliff.

As I descended, each step I would slip down some distance, the slipping was usually stopped by my trekking pole, my hands or my buttock. After an hour, I reached the trail I had seen above, I was safe now. Then my target changed to reach Gokyo asap., cause it was 16:44 p.m.

I rushed into the nearest lodge at about 17:30 p.m., just before night.

Briefly, it was 6.5 hours ascent, and 3.5 hours descent.

That's why I think I across Renjo La, marginally success. Frankly, I would not do it again for whatever reason.

For other trekkers, my advices:

Consider Gokyo - Renjo La - Marulung, this direction should be easier, cause you ascend less and descend more
consider to hire a guide / porter
no village en route, you must bring enough food and water
Start you trip as early as possible.

Lastly, I took many photos, I'll post the link later.

[yakshaver]

It sounds like you were having a real adventure out there Triste. Can't wait for some of the photos! Would love to see them.

[Oli]

exciting tale, triste. We are glad that you made it back to tell us. I shall spare you a lecture on the wisdom of solo crossing of high and wild passes - I expect you have learned that already. :cool:

I've been close to Renjo La on the Gokyo side, the descent path is to the north side of the cwm. And when I was on the Thame side the scarcity of lodges contributed to our decision to retreat. :rolleyes:

Don't trek alone, unless you know what to expect (and even then it's not a good idea)

[julia]

Hi Triste

Reading your precariousness made my heart beat faster, being stuck up there in the dark and winter doesnt sound like a very healthy option.

I thought when YS suggested that Sharon and I mightve mistaken you for the LYM, which wouldve been possible if you had been in that other precarious state YS had mentioned, I presumed he was going to say you had been accosted by the LYW, (luscious yeti woman), but obviously, being accosted by Sharon and myself together wouldve been a much worse prospect for you! But luckily it was nothing as bad as that, just stuck between a icefall and a cliff in the oncoming dark, at night, alone :eek: it really doesnt bare, thinking about, and I dont mean the naked kind either.

You mustve been relieved to get to that lodge, hopefully celebrating with HOT noodles. :)

[triste]

Thank you everyone for encouragement.

Currently I'm suffering from common cold, hope to post the photos in 1 or 2 days.

As I remembered, rushed in a lodge at dusk, got a seat near the dung burning stove, or went directly to the kitchen and sat near the cooking stove, was usual for me. Then I'd pretend that I'm tired, needed a few minutes of rest. Afterward, I'd ask for accommodation and food.

[Ripper]

Nothing marginal in that crossing. You made it, faced down some difficult stuff and may be learned a thing or two. I would be interested in your itinerary. Approaching Gokyo from Thame you gained a lot of elevation in one day did you have any problems adjusting? Were you able to spend some time in Gokyo to rest?

[triste]

another 4 photos:

http://homepage.mac.com/cherish/images/trekking/big/b0664.jpg
Some people, or Yeti? dug many huge arrows (1.5-2 square foot) along the trail; pointing to Langden.

http://homepage.mac.com/cherish/images/trekking/big/b0666.jpg
A lonely sign in the wild.

http://homepage.mac.com/cherish/images/trekking/big/b0671.jpg
The twin lake.

http://homepage.mac.com/cherish/images/trekking/big/b0683.jpg
The frozen lake below Renjo La.

[triste]

photos encore:

http://homepage.mac.com/cherish/images/trekking/big/b0684.jpg
At the bottom of staircase, Renjo La is above.

http://homepage.mac.com/cherish/images/trekking/big/b0687.jpg
The last few steps to climb, as you can see, the staircase is well constructed.

http://homepage.mac.com/cherish/images/trekking/big/b0688.jpg
At Renjo La, looking back.

http://homepage.mac.com/cherish/images/trekking/big/b0689.jpg
At Renjo La, looking forward, Gokyo is down there.

[triste]

Last 3 photos:

http://homepage.mac.com/cherish/images/trekking/big/b0692.jpg
The prayer flag divided the La, right hand side to Langden, left hand side to Gokyo.

http://homepage.mac.com/cherish/images/trekking/big/b0700.jpg
Near the edge of icefall, a trail far below is visible.

http://homepage.mac.com/cherish/images/trekking/big/b0702.jpg
When I was safe, looked back the icefall, the steep trail and the cliff.

[triste]

Nothing marginal in that crossing. You made it, faced down some difficult stuff and may be learned a thing or two. I would be interested in your itinerary. Approaching Gokyo from Thame you gained a lot of elevation in one day did you have any problems adjusting? Were you able to spend some time in Gokyo to rest?

Well, considering I'm from a subtropical city, I don't know how to deal with cold weather in the wild. And, this trip is my first oversea trekking, my first high attitude trekking, my first ...

On that day, my breakfast was 2 cup of hot tea, and my lunch was a bag of instant noodle. The worst, I didn't have any food.

My itinerary was Namche Bazaar 2 nights, Thame Gompa 2 nights (a lodge near the Thame Gompa, at 3925m, which is about 150m higher than lodges in Thame), Langden 1 night, at 4350m; then Gokyo, at 4750m.

Yes, I spend the following day lying in the sun room of the lodge, drinking a big pot of milk tea.

[Ripper]

Great great pictures! You did a great job documenting the pass with your pictures. The stairs look really well made, I don't think they were there two years ago. As the arrows in the pictures show you were going opposite the usual direction. You definitely deserved a break after that day.

[yakshaver]

Well, considering I'm from a subtropical city, I don't know how to deal with cold weather in the wild. And, this trip is my first oversea trekking, my first high attitude trekking, my first ...

On that day, my breakfast was 2 cup of hot tea, and my lunch was a bag of instant noodle. The worst, I didn't have any food.

My itinerary was Namche Bazaar 2 nights, Thame Gompa 2 nights (a lodge near the Thame Gompa, at 3925m, which is about 150m higher than lodges in Thame), Langden 1 night, at 4350m; then Gokyo, at 4750m.

Yes, I spend the following day lying in the sun room of the lodge, drinking a big pot of milk tea.


Great pics Triste! They describe the struggle well... For those who've crossed high passes, the feelings of exhaustion and elation are palpable.

What do you mean you didn't have any food? What were the pack of noodles and the two cups of tea? ;)

[triste]

OK, my story gone back to 02 January.

http://homepage.mac.com/cherish/images/trekking/small/busticket.png
supper express bus to Jiri, 385 rupees, 7 hours journey.

It was a cold and misty morning, I wake up at 0500 hours and walked to the city bus station (opposite Ratna Park) from Thamel. It's just a 20 minutes walk, no shops en route were opened at that time, so I thought that the bus station would also be quiet, and there's no difficulty to locate the bus to Jiri.

At that time, I just knew that there was local bus to Jiri, started at 0600 hours, as mentioned in the Lonely Planet guide book. And, there might be some kind of "tourist bus", unknown schedule.

However, I was completely wrong. It's crowed and noisy, most buses pretended to leave soon, and guys stood near the bus door always waved hand to attract customers.

It's about 0520 hours, I took a cup a milk tea and observe the situation. Clearly, asking someone to help me was better than approaching each bus by myself.

So, when I paid, I asked the restaurant owner where's the bus to Jiri, He immediately pointed me the direction. Voila, I went to that way and passed near another bus, and heard a guy shouted "Jiri, Jiri".

I stopped at once and asked him : "To Jiri?"

He stared at me, then my backpack, said: "local. Tourist, there"; and pointed me to some kind of ticketing office.

Two men sat in the office, I asked them: "any bus to Jiri?"

"Express bus, seven-thirty"

it's only 0530 hours, I thought the waiting time was too long, asked again: "any express bus earlier?"

"no"

Before I gave up and brought the ticket, I queried "no bus at six o' clock?"

"YES, it is super express bus, no express bus, no micro bus"

At that time, I thought he say "super", it was later when I saw the bus ticket and found that it was "supper".

Then I asked him how much and how long is the journey. Well, 385 rupees and arrival at one o' clock.

I paid, then a guy lead me to board the bus, and shown me the specified seat.

To double check, I confirmed with the young man sat beside me that the bus was going to Jiri, not other places with a similar pronunciation.

The bus leave the station at 0603 hours, quite good. Then stopped at 0900 hours for dal bhat, which was included in the bus fare. Further, the bus stopped two times for toilet. The most wonderful thing was that it arrived Jiri at 1255 hours. One can start trekking immediately.

http://homepage.mac.com/cherish/images/trekking/big/b0027.jpg
All luggage were place inside the compartment, no roof top.

http://homepage.mac.com/cherish/images/trekking/big/b0029.jpg
Stopped for dal bhat


Advices for other trekkers:

The ticketing office is located at the corner of the station.

If you can, do not buy any seat of the last row, 6 people crammed together is, uncomfortable.

The sound coming from the speaker is very loud and clear. Well, If you like quiet environment, bring earplug.

[thranduil]

triste, your journey report is GREAT:)
I can't wait to read the next part!

PS: Do you know that your nickname means "sad" in Italian?
Well, your story is everything but sad. :D
The dialogue between you and the bus-ticket guy could have been written by Wodehouse ;)

[triste]

PS: Do you know that your nickname means "sad" in Italian?
Well, your story is everything but sad. :D

I missed the mountains, the dung-burning stove,
the simple and quite trekking life is away,
and I had to work now;

So, I'm sad. :(