Help wanted about route and altitude - Help make a dream come true

[rmerikle]

Ever since a child I have dreamed of Everest. I am targeting March of next year to make that dream a reality. Due to numerous reasons trekking is just not an option at this point in life. One trip that has struck our fancy is doing the below trip via Land cruiser except for the last hike to EBC. I am told you can even have people carry you the last bit to EBC, but at the very least I want to make that last hike to EBC on my own. Under normal circumstances all this would not even faze me, but I am worried about altitude. I currently live and work blocks away from the ocean. What should I expect doing the below itinerary? I am especially worried about going from Xegar to EBC in only a couple of days. Granted there are five full days before that at Lhasa or higher to acclimate. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. I am also still trying to figure out what to do after EBC.

Day1 Fly to Lhasa
Day2 Lhasa Sightseeing
Day3 Lhasa Sightseeing
Day4 Lhasa to Gyantse 3660M - 259 KMS
Day5 Gyantse Shigatse 3900M - 90 KMS
Day6 Shigatse - Xegar 3900M - 244 KMS
Day7 Xegar - Dza Rongphu 4920M - 60 KMS
Day8 Everest Base Camp 8KM - 18,000ft

[yakshaver]

Yes, there are a couple of issues you might wish to cosider in order to make this dream a reality...

First, there is the issue of flexibility. Having enough time, and not rushing things. More people develop AMS who are forced to keep to a schedule. Either as a self imposed rule, or forced by some trekking company, because they are part of a larger group.
This is usually when things go wrong. Either you go with everyone else's rythm, or they leave you behind. Of if it is self imposed, you are driven by your perceived need to keep to the schedule, and make sure you make that flight back (flights can be changed...). I am speaking from bitter experience, as I have made that mistake in my first two treks (I am obviously stupider than other people, as I did not learn the first time around... I still finished the treks, but I had "incidents" happening for me or people in my party, that could have been avoided with an extra day or two of rest, decided impromptu as the need for rest became apparent at various places)

On the other hand, people who have flexibility and execise it, are more likely to achieve their dreams in the Himalaya. You can stay an extra night in a place where you don't feel quite ok. If the situation does not deteriorate, if it gets better, you press on, etc

This is particularly important for you. Not exercising the lungs yourself, it will take longer to acclimatise. Walking on your own two feet helps acclimatization, as the lung capacity increases with exertion. The pain you fill trudging up steep hills in the Himalaya is not all just because of some sadistic pleaseure of whoever put those mountains there;)
Since walking might not be on, you can still do it, but you would need to take longer, in order to be safe and enjoy it. You may be lucky and not have any issue with your proposed itinerary, but there is a good chance you will have some problems.

Which brings us to the issue of Xegar to Dza Rongphu and then Northern EBC in a couple of days. I am particularly mindful of the 3900 to 4900 metres "jump" in one day.

Nowhere to sleep inbetween? I have not done anything in Tibet, so I don't know...

The other issue to consider is that on North Everest EBC is how do you get out to safety if something goes wrong. I know, trekking is supposed to take you to out-of-way places and this is why I go there. If you need support on the other hand, you might plan things a bit differently, and think about the "exit routes". In Nepal, you can fly out with a helicopter from almost anywhere (below about 5500 altitude, because of air thinness...) for between 1400 and 2000 US dollars, which you can then claim of your travel insurance as medical evacuation. I have no idea what these logistics are in Tibet. I know things are more expensive in China due to less competition in remote places like Tibet, and because of dependence on government for services like "rescue" and evacuation. Still, these are some of my assumptions and I may be wrong. If my geography is right, you only have Lhasa near by (in a maner of speaking). Getting to some "western" medical centre, or simply getting down in altitude, may be longer, compared to Nepal, I don't know.

Lhasa itself is quite high, and people flying in often have headaches and are dazed for a couple of days. Driving in is an option in terms of acclimatizing.
I know you can do that from KTM and it takes about 4 days to get to Lhasa. I have no idea of the logistics from inside China.
Others may clarify any of the gaps there.

On the Nepali side, I know you can organise almost anything. I have seen people doing the AC on the back of a donkey. No kidding, including the crossing of the Thorung La at 5400m altitude. They had a guide, a donkey handler and, of course, the all-wheel gallop organically driven animal.
On the EBC side one could probably use a yak or donkey as well. I have seen people being carried for days sitting in a plastic chair on the back of a porter (there were two porters in the party taking turns).
For a small amount of money anything is possible.
You can have this probably arranged on the Tibetan side as well.

However in terms of your schedule, as described below, the altitude issue remains. I would take longer, and find places to sleep after Xgar which would not be more than 500 m altitude higher than the night before - even if it means organising a proper tented expedition.

I dunno, I hope my ramblings help... I would definitely not give up. The Himalaya is definitely worth the pain and effort. It is absolutely amazing.
It is just a matter of understanding how many ways there are to skin the cat, and wheter you have the right cat to be skinned, meaning you dont' have to get stuck on one particular trek, or just one region in the Himal, but might consider more options. Both in terms of which trek, and in terms of how long you might want to take. All the time I would keep in mind that I wish to take longer than most people in order to acclimatise, if I can't walk on my two feet. This means you need accommodation in more places. From the information given I am not sure the Tibet EBC will provide that. I know that on the Nepal side, most popular treks provide you with accomodation every couple of hours or so in most places. Often every hour there will be a lodge.

[kolobar]

First thing you should think of is that flights from KTM to Lhasa start in April (if you intend to fly to Lhasa from KTM of course).
Regarding acclimatization: if you will enter Tibet from Nepal and if you have time go for a trekking in Nepal before you leave for Tibet. A trek to Gosaikund lakes/Langtang including a climb to Laurebina pass is a common acclimatization trek. On the trek you can control how you gain altitude much better than when travelling with landcruiser. There are enough lodges to spend the night on the required altitude.
While in Lhasa do daytrips to higher altitude and return to Lhasa overnight. A daytrip to Ganden is one such tour where you will be spending few hours at 4.500m, hike a little (Ganden kora) and return to Lhasa overnight. Do this tour after few days in Lhasa when you are adapted to Lhasa altitude.
Travelling from Nepal to Lhasa by road is not a good idea regarding acclimatization. After driving from KTM straight to Nyalam at 3.800m and a night there you have to drive over 5000m pass (Lalung la) and end up over 4.000m (Tingri or Lhatse) without possibility to move lower. There is no place to stay overnight between Nyalam and Lalung la except camping. If you have time to stay in Nyalam longer you can do acclimatization hikes from Nyalam. Forget about helicopter evacuation in Tibet.
Driving from Lhasa to EBC should be enough for basic acclimatization: stages/overnight in Gyantse (3.950m), Sakya/Lhatse (4.300m - Sakya) or Shegar. There are few high passes on the way which will add to acclimatization. Also it is possible to stay in villages before EBC (Passum) and it is not necessary to spend the night at Rongbuk, just visit the monastery and EBC and move lower if you dont feel well. There is now a short cut from EBC to Tingri to avoid return trip over Pang la - bad "road" but exceptional landscape&views.
There is not much choice where to go after EBC: to Nepal most probably or you can continue to Western Tibet by southern road.
PS: There is no way anyone would carry you from Rongbuk to EBC (except a yak perhaps). Tourist jeeps are no more allowed after Rongbuk (exception might be off season period when there are no expeditions in EBC and no control) so you have to walk. There were funny horse drawn carriages introduced 2 years ago to take you along this stretch but they seem very uncomfortable (no suspension).

[rmerikle]

First off thank you so much for taking the time. I was a little worried what type of response I would get with such a non-trekking type question.

To clarify, I am not so much trying to rush the trip as I am trying to rush this piece of the trip. I am actually planning to spend about three weeks in this part of the world. The itinerary that I outlined looked good because it had a number of days at Lhasa, but I agree the climb from there seems very aggressive. We could spend more time climbing the altitude, but in all honesty I am not sure we want to spend more time in these high altitudes. We would rather spend our time exploring other bigger cities. The tight itinerary outlined would allow some flexibility because a extra day here or there could easily be worked in.

Also I like the idea of maybe doing a side trek or something along those lines before EBC. Thanks for that idea I will have to give it some thought. It is not that we can’t do some hiking, it is just that four or five hours a day for multiple days is out of the question. I absolutely refuse to have anyone carry me. The closest I would get is maybe riding a mule or Yak or something along those lines. If it were not for the altitude then I am pretty sure the walking with out a pack would not be a problem. It is just that I have spent some time at altitudes around 2,700 M and even at that level I remember how much more taxing it was to do some backpacking. I can’t imagine what EBC will be like.

[yakshaver]

If it were not for the altitude then I am pretty sure the walking with out a pack would not be a problem. It is just that I have spent some time at altitudes around 2,700 M and even at that level I remember how much more taxing it was to do some backpacking. I can’t imagine what EBC will be like.

Yes, I can associate with these feelings... This is why I always hire a porter and only carry a small daypack with my bottle of water, camera, and an extra jacket.

At about 3000m you start feeling the altitude, but you're right, it can happen even earlier. If you acclimatize well, you feel quite ok. I remember that after aclimatizing in Namche Bazaar and Kumjung (3500 to 3800m) for three nights - doing small day trips etc, I felt quite ok on my way to Gokyo Ri at 5300m. As if I was walking at sea level. Except that going up and up and up, and then down and down and down - is still not easy - no matter how acclimatized you are... But it is oh... so enjoyable to be in these surrounds, see the vistas, spend time in the villages along the way.
If you don't have time to acclimatise "by the book", there are certain accepted rules of rate of ascent etc..., then you may still try to follow your plan.
But please follow kolobar's hint, and have handy an "exit strategy"(to use a stupid euphemistic weasel word, employed usually by politicians I have no sympathy for...). It might be appropriate to ask: "How the hell will we get out of the mess if we get into trouble???" I mean this it for you to have a plan, if you get into trouble with altitude...