Monsoon Climbing

[critter2722]

Wondering if anyone knows whether you can climb the Island Peak during the Monsoon. Also if anyone knows what type conditions are normal during that time period. I am wondering how cold it will be in August/September.:confused:

[Escher]

I wouldn't advise it. Obviously the precipitation levels are higher during the moonsoon therefore your chances of there being stable snow conditions on the mountain are low, or at least lower than during the climbing seasons. In fact you are likely to encounter difficult and dangerous conditions and a high risk of avalanche. I haven't climbed in that season, so I don't know for sure. But my feeling is it is a bad idea, especially if you are a novice.

Fresh snow requires a period of consolidation and freeze/thaw before it is stable enough to climb on, and stable enough not to be avalanche prone. Have you done any climbing before?

Escher

[critter2722]

I have done a lot of climbing but nothing in Nepal. I value your opinion and will not try to do any of the peaks. I will just have to get back there again during a better climbing season. Do you know what type of temperatures I will be facing at EBC/Namche?

[Escher]

My answer was tailored towards someone who may have done very little climbing. Questions are often asked about Island Peak by total novices who have never been to a climbing wall let alone climbed an alpine peak.

So if you are an experienced alpinist then there may be a chance you can get up Island Peak. If you are happy assessing avalanche risk and breaking trail through powder (rather you than me) then you may have enough of a break in the weather to summit. Reinhold Messner soloed Everest in the summer so climbing is possible. But you obviously have to drag all your kit up to BC and there is no guarantee that you'll actually make it that far, if the snow is bad and no groups will be trekking so you'll have to break trail everywhere you go. Could turn into a bit of an epic. So overall it probably isn't worth the bother to be honest.

You ask about temperatures. Are you asking so you can decide on what weight kit you will need to take? I've never been there in the monsoon, but lower extremes are possible anytime. In March/April I only take a -5 degree sleeping bag and lightweight duvet jacket and no other insulating gear. I would take the same in the monsoon. It'll be warmer during the day but I would be surprised if it will get colder than -5 at 4750m (when staying in lodges). In March, during the 3 times I have been to Gokyo the coldest it has been in my room was -2. It can be colder obviously but I think it is worth taking the risk to save a few kilos over taking warmer kit.

Escher