View Full Version : Mera Or Island Peak

22nd September 2005, 04:48 PM
Hello all,
After rescheduling will be doing Annapurna circuit (24th Oct dept) then Lukla EBC (Mid Nov dept) then want to climb Mera or Island Peak.
Does anyone have any info on arranging a guided ascent of either of these.
This will be from about the 20th December or so. Any ideas on price e.t.c???
Or anyone want to join me???

22nd September 2005, 07:19 PM

Permit US$300

Mandatory Guide fee US$350 (or the other way around, I can't remember)

Island Peak is easily accessible as such you will need to camp for only 2 or 3 nights (if you stay in lodges the rest of the time) so will need porters for climbing gear for 3-7 days approx, plus cook boy and guide for a 2 or 3. You can hire all the equipment you'll need and buy food in Kathmandu. All these costs will be on top of the permit and guide fees. You will also have to pay for insurance for your guide and a return flight to lukla for them (although the locals rate is cheaper). If you install a high camp you will need more equipment too.

Mera on the other hand is a bit more remote and requires a camping trek for some part to get to it and possibly one or two stocked high camps as well. Inevitably this will be more expensive.

It only gets cheaper if you can share the costs. You can get up to 7 people on one permit. But even if you go on your own you still have to pay both the mandatory fees.

I don't know what your experience is but I really wouldn't recommend climbing either of these peaks in December. There are weather windows but Winter climbing in the Himalayas is notorious for very high winds and exceptionally low temperatures. It is cold in the valleys too but generally the high peaks protect you from the high winds. High up on the ridges and faces is different matter though and 80-100 mph winds and -30 to -40 celsius temperatures are not uncommon. Not a great place for the experienced and a potential death trap for the novice. That said it is not impossible and you can be lucky with the conditions. Personally I have experienced -30 at 4800m in January in the Khumbu.

I have employed Sea to Summit trekking (contact ringi@ccsl.com.np) and I cannot recommend them highly enough. They rescued a team mate of mine when we were climbing Ama Dablam in 1 hour after receiving the call from us. Bear in mind it takes 45 minutes to fly a chopper from Kathmandu let alone arrange for a pilot! There are of course many other agencies that will do an equally good job.

Good luck

22nd September 2005, 09:28 PM
Thanks Escher,
I know its not the ideal time, but it makes it more interesting dosen,t it!
I have found one U.K based company for a Mera Peak climb in December but at a cost of 2000 sterling, I would rather employ local guides,porters and put some money into the economy and save myself some at the same time.
I have no doubt that I will be able to find someone to go with me up there, just might take some time!!!!

23rd September 2005, 02:19 AM
Hi Nathy,

Last year around X-mas a french couple went to climb Iceland peak with a good sherpa friend of mine. They had the summit on 2 nd of January. They had very good weather for the time of the year, but once on the summit a storm came up and with help of my friend they came down without any problem. Nights where pritty cold at Basecamp, around -20.
They did it low budget only one porter, guide, dried food and coocking stuff.
If you are interested what the price will be, I can ask at the office where my friend is working for. Mail me: harrybrands@yahoo.com