mera peak virgins

[Marty]

we are looking to trek to mera peak in oct 2011 need lots of info never been to nepal and need recomendation for companys and gear requided

[Petrus]

First of all do some (a lot of) reading around this forum and Lonely Planet Thorn Tree Nepal branch. Secondly, get a decent book about trekking in Khumbu, which includes Mera.

Mera climb can be made several ways. The most common is to join a group ("western group" is more expensive, Nepalese cheaper bus basically the same sans a possible western guide). These groups usually do not visit upper Khumbu before the climb to save time and money, but head straight for the mountain after getting to Lukla. This usually means acclimatization problems for many members. These groups usually fly out right after the climb and members do not get to see the Everest area at all (except from a distance from the Mera summit if they are lucky).

If you are prepared to form your own group, which might be actually cheaper depending on how many you are, or join an existing one in Lukla, the preferred way is to first trek to EBC and/or Gokyo and then go to Mera. This practically guarantees success, as you are well acclimatized. You can also take a shortcut across Zatrwa La and need not make the southern detour all groups arriving Lukla are forced to do.

The third, and I think the best, option is to first make a normal trek to EBC (or first Gokyo, then EBC), preferably even walking in from Jiri, meet the guide and a couple of porters (again depending on the size or the party) in Dingpoche on the way down from EBC. Then go to Mera over the quite demanding Amphu Labtsa pass 5800m. This route is more scenic, less travelled, more adventurous and faster than going first back to Lukla. Dingpoche-AL-Mera-Zatrwa La-Lukla can be done in 7 days, even 6 if strong and lucky.

If you want an agency contact, send me a personal message.

Gear: I suppose you are not first timers to mountains or hiking. At lower elevations even shorts and T-shirts might be used. From there up it is the normal progression of light trekking pants, long sleeve sport shirts, thin fleece, thicker fleece, long johns, thicker climbing pants/soft shell pants, GTX shell jacket, midweight down jacket. Trail runners and mid-heavy hiking boots with room enough for liners & thick woolmix socks, gaiters, crampons, ice ax, trekking poles, light climbing harness. Liner gloves, thicker gloves, wool mittens, balaclava, wool cap. Sleeping bag rated to -20C/-5F. No despair, you will have porters...

[Marty]

thanks for the info we are a party of two and are looking for a challenge done treaking throughout australian alps in all weather conditions and we are hoping for a great challenge the route you have suggested seems great the longer the acclimatisation the better we are able to travel for around three to four weeks but if longer is needed we are prepared to take the longer option could you forward the names of prefered companys or contacts thanks martin

[James]

I agree with all of Petrus comments, but will emphasize that crossing the Amphu Labtsa pass in that direction is a serious undertaking. It is more difficult then Mera itself given that all the porters, supplies and gear must be taken through. While it will provide much better acclimatization, it will be far more involved and expensive than the traditional approach.

[Petrus]

It is demanding, very true, and should be attempted in alpine style, not heavy camping trek style. Meaning just light tents, light stoves etc and no porters with dokos. As it can actually be done much faster than going first back to Lukla and across Zatrwa La it would not be necessarily more expensive than a "normal" Mera climb. Naturally one should be prepared to pay both porters and the guide somewhat more than usually and their clothing and boots must also be up to the task.

[GoNepal]

It depends how adventurous and challenging you want to make your trip. Petrus' way is more challanging which may make you feel good. I agree James too because thats the way most people do it.

My suggestion: 3-4 weeks and organized trek. do it regular route, starting from Lukla and cross Amphu Laptsa. Just take time between Lukla and Mera to acclimatize. This route gives you more flexibility. If you spend lots of time in Khumbu and go to Mera with limited number of days and weather turn out bad, you are out of luck. Lots of time saved for Mera, there is not much to do between Mera and Lukla.

Lastly, sometimes groups loose their gear or food load on EBC side of Amphu Laptsa accidentally on that exposed steep slope. It has happened to us even with ropes fixed. Most porters are strong physically not technically. Technically good guys and gals are hired by big expeditions like Mt. Everest or Amadablam where they are paid a lot more. If Important gear is lost before reaching Mera, your Mera Peak climb is delayed or finished since there is no lodge between Chhukung and Mera (2-3 days). If anything goes wrong on Amphu Laptsa after Mera, you will be at Chhukung in lodge, drinking beer. You can still continue khumbu trek as everything is available in the area. Have good time mate!

[Petrus]

My suggestion: 3-4 weeks and organized trek. do it regular route, starting from Lukla and cross Amphu Laptsa. Just take time between Lukla and Mera to acclimatize. This route gives you more flexibility.

I suppose this should read: "starting from Lukla and cross Zatrwa La".

Or actually the next lower route a bit south, as climbing Zatrwa La fresh from Lukla is not possible in practice. All commercial groups take that longer southern route which eventually winds up to Zatrwa La teahouses also, but the ascent is slower.

Losing loads happens with dokos and non-climber porters. My alpine style suggestion means porters, guides and trekkers all carrying alpine packs and going as a team.

[Marty]

thanks guys we need some local contacts (any recomendations)to get info or should we organise from australia sounds like we are going to take the regular route for our first time to ease into it( will they make a trekking group up ?)