2 nights Phortse or Tengboche

[kmcboogie]

Hi: I'm planning on doing the 3 passes trek in the Everest region, going counterclockwise. On the way up, to help acclimatize, I want to spend 2 nights at either Phortse or Tengboche. Which one would be more pleasant, in terms of ambiance, scenery and things to do and places to go on the acclimatization day. I plan on starting my trek mid-November, so hopefully post major crowds.

Thanks,

Kay

[rich]

Phortse

The lodgings in Tengboche are rubbish
Best to have a look passing through only (eg: a lunch stop)

[James]

kmcboogie,
I can't speak to Phortse, but there are two lodges in Tengboche- the one on the right as you going up has a group of very nice rooms in a detached structure behind the bakery. While the rooms are much more expensive than the other rooms they are very clean, well constructed and had absolutely incredible views of Amadabla. Between the monastery, monks, museum, nearby trails, and views (not to mention the bakery) it is a wonderful place to spend some time

However, I'm not sure why you'd be spending two nights in either location to adjust if you have spent time in Namche and are spending an extra night in Dingboche. Also, most elect to continue beyond Tengboche to Pangboche for the night.

[Lars]

If you do go to Tengboche make sure you know which phase the moon is at.
Full moon over Amadablam is a sight you will never forget. Not sure about the
views from Phortse.

Full moon in November is a big occasion at Tengboche. Monks and Lamas from
far away come there to celebrate. There are lots of drumming and blowing in
long horns etc. I have heard that the last decade or so they charge ridiculous
prices though in Tengboche at that particular time, even the monastery cashes
in on the many tourists.

Lars
Bangkok

[Petrus]

Phortse, while a nice and the most untouched village along the EBC (side)trail, is really a place where nothing happens. Sitting there for 2 days would be boring, unless you would make hikes towards Gokyo for example so see animals (thar & musk deer) and visit the local gompa.

Tengpoche at least has a big gompa with something going on most of the time.

Third option: After Namche stay at Mong ridge (Mong La), the views are terrific. After that go to Phortse for lunch and continue along the high trail to Pangpoche for the next night. This way both overnight places would be a bit higher also.

And finally: if you go via Phortse, you will not see Tengpoche at all, which would be a shame (especially if you would be there during festivities). You need not sleep there, there are several lodges about 30 minutes past it. Spend the afternoon in Tengpoche, sleep in the next village, then move to Pangpoche for the next night.

[kmcboogie]

Thanks for the informative replies. I was planning 2 nights at around Tengboche altitude for acclimatization purposes, then I was thinking 1 night in Dingboche, followed by 2 in Chukhing before going over the pass. I was also contemplating 1 night in Tengboche, then a short day and 1 night in Pangboche to be slightly higher (and to consider that day as an acclimatization day). Phortse looks interesting too since I gather it's less touristy, and seeing some wildlife would be nice. However, I can't be everywhere, so at some point I'll have to decide.

K

[thesilvertops]

Phortse is quite a nice little village, only a few lodges and a fair number of traditional houses/farms. It's probably a bit like Namche used to be before tourism took it over. It's on a quieter trail so a bit nicer than the trail through Thyangboche. I like staying there. If you're lucky, as we were, you may get invited into a tradional house and taken upstairs to the kitchen/living area for tea and a chat. They keep a fair number of animals there. Yak for going higher and Yak crosses for going down. In the woods leading down to the valley and Mong La you are likely to see the Nepal national bird - the Impeyan pheasant. This photo was taken in the woods just below Phortse. I'm sorry it's not sharp, the light was very poor.

If you have the time you can hike in via Thyangboche and out via Phortse or vice-versa. I don't see the need to stay 2 nights at Thyangboche, you can move on to Pangboche after 1 night. I would spent 2 nights at Dingboche and have a day trip to Chhukhung on the spare day.

http://www.pbase.com/thesilvertops/image/60769904.jpg

http://www.pbase.com/thesilvertops/image/60672576.jpg
Phortse from near the Mong La.

http://www.pbase.com/thesilvertops/image/130924902.jpg
Phortse - Looking towards the Nameste Lodge where we usually stay.

http://www.pbase.com/thesilvertops/image/130924909.jpg
Traditional Sherpa houses in Phortse. Namche used to have many houses like these. Beyond is the valley up to Gokyo.

[kmcboogie]

Thanks for the beautiful photos. I won't be hiking in and out (hopefully, if the weather cooperates) as I'm planning on doing the 3 passes. I'll no doubt make a decision along the trail. Both places sound good for different reasons.

K

[marcy]

Why not spend a night in phortse, and then continue on to Tengboche - spend the afternoon looking around Tengboche, and then go on and spend that night either at the next little village on the trail -- cheaper and less crowded then Tengboche, thoough a bit lower down.

[kmcboogie]

Thanks for the idea Marcy. Is there a trail that goes directly between Phortse and Tengboche?

K

[Petrus]

Thanks for the idea Marcy. Is there a trail that goes directly between Phortse and Tengboche?

K

Yes, there is a small bridge crossing the river a little bit upstream from Tengpoche. You can see it from the Phortse-Pangpoche trail when it turns the corner from the Phortse village. Small local shortcut trail leads down to the bridge and over to the village/nunnery on the other side and from there to Tengpoche. Or something like this, I did see the trail but did not walk it last year.

[thesilvertops]

Yes, there is a trail from Thyangboche to Phortse but we haven't walked it. Whichever side you start from it's down, down, down to the river, across the bridge and up, up, up. I think it starts from the top end of the village in Phortse. You head up through Phortse village as though going to Pangboche but on the edge of the village take the right fork to Thyangboche or straight ahead to Pangboche. There might also be a less frequented trail from the bottom of Phortse.

[MAKO BEAST]

Hi Kay,

I decided to go anti-clockwise to do the 3 passes.
Will stay in Mong or Phortse then go the high route to Upper Pangboche. Must be incredible beautiful, not too crowdy and I'm not such a monastry-lover.
But will overnight 2x in Chukung. So 1 day for chukung ri or glacier...
Next day Kongma La

Tom

[Petrus]

Last year in May we passed via the higher trail which goes above the lower Pangpoche village. There is a funeral rock there, where bodies are cremated, and one old man was being prepared for this operation. Unwrapped, thoroughly oiled and put on the pyre naked in a sitting position. After considerable hesitation I asked for a permission to photograph, but was denied the privilege.

I would not be surprised if sky burial is still done in some places also in Khumbu, but strictly outside tourist trails. I was able to attend one in Lhasa in -85, two months before the place (large flat rock about 1/2 km east of Sera monastery, can be seen with binoculars from Potala hill) was totally closed to foreigners.

[kmcboogie]

Hi again: Thanks for all the replies. I'm not sure I'm going to want to go down down down and then up up up though:). It's good to know about the possibilities. My thinking now is 1 night Tengboche, 1 night Pangboche or 1 night Phortse followed by 1 night Pangboche.

K

[marcy]

Yes. My guide referred to it as a "Sherpa shortcut". You probably won't see any other trekkers on that section of trail as its not the standard route. On the day I went I think the only other beings I saw on the trail besides my own guide were a large family of Himalayan Tarr in the forest, who seem remarkably unperturbed by my stopping to watch them.

If you have a guide or can talk to a local guide whilst in the area, they can point you to it. Also, Jamie McGuinness lives in Kathmandu and has been that way, and could undoubtedly give you a pretty good description of which way to go. I know that Chris Bealle -- who does the slideshows at Kathmandu Guesthouse has also been that way. Or the people who live in Phortse can probably explain you the way.

[marcy]

The trail I took (which I think was out of the lower part of Phortse) at one point was a very narrow trail that countoured around a beautiful ridge in a vally with a fantastic view. Then down to the bridge mentioned above -- the down was not too steep. Then up up up pretty steeply through a really nice forest right to the back of Tengboche monastery. The down down part was not bad at all and far easier than alot of the other down down days you will encounter on the trail. The up up up part I was kind of slow at (but I am slow and fat). A fast hiker can probably do the up up part in an hour or two I imagine.

[GoNepal]

Ohhh Yes,
Marcy is right. I have done this twice. Before crossing bridge take a good rest. Tengboche side does not have real trail. It is just cross country hike. However, you will hit the Tengboche at around monastery.

@ K, go Namche to Tengboche. Next day you can climb up the ridge (top of the peak with prayer flag)above Tengboche in the morning and move to Pangboche. Climb to top only if you are good scrambling because you will have to use your hands to grab on something near the top. I climbed down from the back side where thick juniper garden was problem. The best, Namche to Deboche and from Deboche go to Pangboche early morning, take a lunch, leave your pack in the lodge and hike toward Amadablum BC and back to Pangboche for a night just 100 m higher than Tengboche or hike up the ridge above Pangboche. The treeless ridge start pass Pangboche village from the ridge you will see Amadablum BC. On the way down from Gokyo cross river (birdge) near Phang/Fanga (first village) and go to Phortse. This is scenic trail than coming through Machhermo and Dole. You will see all these villages from the side you will be on. Ask local whether bridges are in good conditions at (between Phanga and Thore, Amadablum BC and Pangboche and between Tengboche and Phortse). These bridges are sometime washed away by flood or in bad condition. good luck

[MAKO BEAST]

Has anyone done the path thats marked on the schneider map and EBC-map (National Geographic) from Pangboche gompa up to Taboche Kharka (altitude ca 4600m) towards Samso Ogma then down finally ending at Periche ? Its a faint line and is almost vertical up). So maybe that's a path not frequently used. But I guess from there you've got some beautiful vista's from Ama Dablam and its glaciers.

[Sharon]

I can't recall the name but there are a few lodges about 15 minutes out of Tengboche. I stayed there on few days on a couple of occassions. It is a 15 minute walk into tengboche for all the fun, cultural evets etc with nicer lodgings.

[Escher]

I can't recall the name but there are a few lodges about 15 minutes out of Tengboche. I stayed there on few days on a couple of occassions. It is a 15 minute walk into tengboche for all the fun, cultural evets etc with nicer lodgings.

It's Deboche.

[potatopete]

Hi, There is a trail from Phortse to Tengboche. It's down hill to the river then a bit up to Tengboche. I'm partial to Phortse. In January and February Phortse is the home of the Khumbu Climbing School--High altitude climbing technique training for Sherpa climbers conducted by both Sherpa Climbers and Western Climbers (This year it's directed by Pete Athans). The village is building a beautiful new 2 story, energy efficient Climbing School building. In addition, one can tour the new MagicYeti Library in the community center building, next to the elementary school. Home to over 10 lodges/Guest houses, Phortse is far from boring. There is a beautiful Gompa there as well. If you are there in February, look me up. I'll be there helping with more library work. The Climbing School is conducting its advanced classes during the first week of Feb. this year. Also, there's a good trail from Phortse to Pangboche. Last October I slept under the stars on that trail and woke up in the morning to 9 Himalayan Tar grazing 50 feet away. Not a boring place at all.
Pete O.

[kmcboogie]

Thanks for the invite Pete! I think I'll be in the area in November though, and not in February. Sounds like so many good places to visit.

Kay