Some final questions

[urnotreal]

Hello all. My lady and I will be arriving in Kathmandu in a couple weeks and plan to trek the AC and Sanctuary. This forum has been invaluable in planning our trip and I want to thank all of you very much for your input to this point. I do have a few final questions, though.

1. We will be arriving at the airport at 11:00pm. After time spent acquiring visas, will we still easily be able to find lodging in Thamel? It sounds like everything shuts down relatively early and I can't help but wonder whether or not it would be a good idea to secure lodging in advance.

2. Does anyone have any tips towards making the obtaining of visas and permits as painless as possible? We won't be using any guides or porters so we are forced to acquire these on our own when we get there.

Our general itinerary is as follows: Syange (by jeep), Tal, Timang, Dukhur Pokhari, Ghyaru, Manang, Manang (Ice Lake or Kharka), Khangsar, TBC, TBC (Tilicho Lake), Yak Kharka, Thorung Phedi, Muktinath, Muktinath (Temples complex and Jhong), Marpha (via Lupra), Larjung (via Chimang), Kalopani (via Sekung Lake and Titi Lake), Tatopani (by Jeep), Ghorepani, Tadapani, Chomrong, Him Hotel or Deorali, ABC, Sinuwa, Ghandruk, Nayapul>Pokhara.

3. I am quite excited by the trip to Tilicho but I am curious just how sketchy the trail is. I have heard conflicting views on this. We are very capable backpackers and generally sure-footed. Is that good enough? How long are the sketchiest parts?

4. I did not want to shortcut Bahundanda but my lady is very into yoga and wanted to spend more time in Pokhara so I was forced to cut a day somewhere. Will we miss a lot by passing up this stretch? Should I cut a different part instead?

5. Speaking of yoga, are there any notable places along the trek that she could practice with villagers?

I think that about covers it. Thanks again to everyone for all of your help.

[Landfall38]

1. Arriving anytime from overseas it is a good idea to pre-arrange at least the first night and be picked up by hotel. Arriving so late (11pm) DEFINITELY do this!

2. Visas are simple: have photos ready (they can be "homemade" passport photos), proper amount in cash for visa, and even pre-filled out visa form. Not a problem.

Permits: Needs TIMS and ACAP. You can pay an agency (even arrange before arrive) or do yourself -- need at least a half day. You can also do this in Pokhara (though I've only done this in KTM)


4. Jeep to Syange? You will miss nice walk BhulBhule-->NGadi-->Bahundanda-->Syange. No jeeps on that side. Too bad. I'd cut on the other side and take jeep/bus

5. I've never seen people doing yoga along the way -- too busy ploughing fields etc etc (OK, not all do this, I know)


Final suggestion: be careful, do not to try to plan each/every day so finely -- it always works out different and extra days to play with can make it much more enjoyable. (And don't rush the altitude! Does your lady like headaches?)

[Edgewood]

Two years ago my wife looked at the middle trail to Tilicho and said no way. We went up (and up, then way down) the high trail instead. That was fun but much work. On the way out she said no way to the high trail and we took the middle trail. It's not that bad. The trail is on a steep hill with lots of loose gravel above and below. It's narrow,one person wide, and I went in front and held her hand on the more exposed parts. One would have to really screw up to get hurt. Go early to minamize traffic coming up the trail. Do go,Tilicho Lake is very nice. Take warm clothes as it is cold and windy. Rooms at the Tilicho lodge are in demand so get a early start if possible. There are some new lodges on the way that are well worth a night.
If you can, spent extra time at Muktinath. There is much to see and the temple complex is great.
Throwing asanas on the trail would be akin to doing it in a working class neighborhood here. People will stare.
Have a great time.

[yakshaver]

I can think of a nubmer of things to be done in congregation with villagers (both legal and illegal). The Luscious Yeti Woman does yoga in public on the odd ocasion, but beware, if you are a man, male I mean.

[urnotreal]

Thanks for the replies. In our previous travels elsewhere, we have rarely secured lodging ahead of time but we will for sure on this one. As for the itinerary, it is not at all rigid. I guess it does kind of appear that way on my first post but we do have a couple extra days built in to be used in the case of unforseen circumstances. There are certain things that we would really like to see though (Tal, Muktinath area, Manang area, Tilicho, Lupra route), and a guaranteed few days in Pokhara have been deemed a must. On the Marsyangdi side, we wanted to sleep in smaller villages as much as possible in an attempt to avoid some of the crowds that are inevitable at this time of year. I realize that altitude could be an issue staying in Ghyaru, and we will certainly pay attention to its effects but, as it stands, we wouldn't gain more than 600m in a day beyond Timang and we're hoping that helps. Edgewood, the Tilicho info was exactly what I was looking for. Much appreciated on that one. I can't wait to head that way. Also thank you all for the amusing replies with regard to the yoga question. The answers were what we expected (mostly) but I told her I would ask just in case.
Thanks again!

[Petrus]

Some remarks: Sleeping in Ghyaru should not be a problem, and if you are a bit short on time you can skip the second night in Manang, as Ghyaru is already 100m higher than Manang! If you go to Tilicho Lake you are already spending good time near and above 5000m, so the night in Yak Kharka (or anywhere between Manang and Thorong La) is redundant, just go all the way to Thorong Phedi (NOT Thorong high camp, though). I have walked straight from Manang to Thorong Phedi twice with no ill effects even without any pre-acclimatization which you will have, in the good old times there were no lodges between Manang and Thorong Phedi anyway. This would cut 2 days for something more interesting, if not yoga, then visiting the villages opposite side of Kagbeni, for exaple. There must even be a nice non-tourist trail from Kagbeni to Jomsom on the opposite side of the river, at least there is a new bridge above Jomson.

[yakshaver]

I went from Ledar, and slept at High Camp (with only lunch at Thorung Pedi) without ill effects. But everyone is different, and so is every trek, and you'd rather be cautious regarding altitude.

[Landfall38]

Personally, we hate Churi Letdar.... We do like Yak Kharka.

We have 2x stayed only 1 night in Manang and instead stayed at the wonderful lodge (wonderful woman also a good cook; great views) in Gunsang (lower side of trail; on your left as you are heading to Thorung Phedi). (FYI, we also had stayed either at Gyaru or Ngawal -- either highly recommended.)

As noted above, BAD idea to skip Phedi and rather go straight to high camp -- many have had significant problems doing this (we met them on their way back down, middle of the night).

[Edgewood]

We left Ledar expecting to stay at High Camp. Arrived there at 10 and decided just to go on over the pass. It worked well for us but we are good at altitude.

[Landfall38]

(i) you did not sleep high so likely got down before possible serious affects (they take time). Nevertheless, you are indeed not average -- you're the exception.

(ii) going from Letdar to High camp is definitely far more at elevation gain than recommended by the experts. I'm not joking or exaggerating that we've seen quite ill people descending in the dark from high camp. (One classic was a couple where the guy was a guide from Chamonix -- his wife's trek was ruined).
So, some people such as you are OK, others take their life -- or others' -- in their hands.