Recommend EBC or Annapurna Circuit?

[trek167]

I finally have a window of opportunity to take a significant period of time to trek in Nepal in March/April, and I'm looking into taking a 20+ day trek to either Everest Base Camp or around the Annapurna Circuit. Both seem to have what I'm looking for (stunning mountain views, rugged terrain, and great hiking). I've heard that Annapurna has more beautiful and satisfying vistas, but that the road that was built (being built?) substantially (in a negative way) impacts the enjoyment of the AC. On the other hand, EBC has the higher peaks, but may not be as "beautiful." I'm interested to hear anyone's thoughts on which trek they would recommend. Not sure when I'm going to get the next time off to get back for the other trek, so I'd like to make this one count!

Thanks.

[Escher]

They are both fantastic treks. You will not be disappointed with either or feel like you should have done the other one whichever you choose.

The Annapurna Circuit has been a world class trek for quite a while. But due to the road it is dropping down the list. But, right now, it is still worth doing and this won't be true forever. The affect on the Marsyangdi side isn't anywhere near as bad as the Kali Gandaki side but the villages on that side remain fascinating. There is still much to be said for the AC especially if you extend it at the end to Ghorepani, Chhomrong and Ghandruk. At the time of year you propose the rhododendrons will be in full bloom and they are spectacular and it is something that everyone should see at least once.

So I say go for the AC because it will soon be utterly spoilt and you won't have the opportunity again. The Khumbu will be there for another day.

Here (http://www.trekinfo.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11070) is my trip report from the last time I did it in March 2008 so you can see my view about the road.

[trek167]

Thanks, that's helpful. One more question. I'm thinking of booking a trek with acethehimalaya for AC. The cost is about half of that for project-himalaya for EBC. What could be the reason for the big price discrepancy (other than the fact that the AC trip is 1 week shorter)? Ace seems to have gotten a good review, but just wanted to see what I would potentially be giving up with the significantly lower price.

[Petrus]

I think Annapurna circuit is already ruined by the road. I recommend you go to Khumbu.

Annapurna circuit was the best trek in the world. In the eighties, that is. Maybe my views are distorted by the fact that I walked the old, roadless trail starting from Dumre all the way to Pokhara twice in -84 and -86. At that time the trail really went through different cultures and climate/vegetation zones and was about 3 weeks long. The fame of AC stems from that time. Now the relativelly pristine roadless part is only 10 days, and even there the road construction is advancing. In my view this more or less takes away the culture part from the trek and leaves only the mountains and the letdown of dusty road, motorcycles, tractors, jeeps and busses right after you get over the Thorong La pass. In the past trekkers really were "one" with the sourroundings, walking with the merchants, porters, farmers and pilgrims. Now we are the dinosaur of the past, walking, while the more advanced locals ride motorized transports. I can make the comparason, as I have walked the AC again in -06 and most parts of it in -09.

On the other hand "civilisation" has not been able to harm Khumbu nearly as much, as there is no kind of road anywhere ( Jiri, Shiavlaya and Bhandar are not in Khumbu...). So your chosen mode of transport is shared by everyone, not lauhged at from the window of a buss like on west side of AC.

What comes to mountain views they are better in Khumbu, as you are more in the middle of it all. Also the old "blend in with the country" can be done by walking in from Jiri/Shivalaya. This gives a true sense of accomplishment to the trek and the most memorable views.

I would compare this choice to a first visit to a fancy restaurant. You have a choice of two meals, one is the famous dish they have been making for ages and still keep doing, other one used to famous but now they can not get the proper ingredients anymore and the portions have gone a bit stale and mouldy. Would you chooce the stale and mouldy meal because they might stop making them altogether, or the famous best one?

Walk-in from Jiri/Shivalaya, EBC and Gokyo and fly out from Lukla takes 23 days. I hope you did not do any reservations yet for AC.

You do not need to join a tour, it is cheaper and more conveniet to hire a porter-guide (or guide and porters depending the size of your group) and just go independently. A Nepalese trekking agency can still make all conveniet arrangemets for airport pickup, hotel, transportation, necessary paperwork etc.

[Sujoy]

I agree with Petrus. With the road, bikes, dust and pollution fumes the annapurna circuit has lost much of it's charm. Khumbu would be the choice

[trek167]

I'm going solo. Would you recommend waiting to hire a porter-guide in Katmandu? Should I do this from an agency there?

[Per]

I'm going solo. Would you recommend waiting to hire a porter-guide in Katmandu? Should I do this from an agency there?
If you are just hiking the normal "tea house" trekking route you are better off without a porter or guide. There are nice lodges and resturants ALL the way, just waiting to cater for you.

[kegarne]

Even better is to hike into the Khumbu from Tumlingtar....absolutely brutal but fantastic all the same. One day soon I will write it up on the site...