Alt route Annapurna Trek - March 2009

[Petenaz]

My mom, wife, and I are going to Nepal March 25 to April 19 (actual time in Nepal not counting flights - 26 days). My mom has been to Nepal before a few times (and many other trekking and mountaineering areas) but not Annapurna area. I am worried that the trek will be too crowded and/or not as rewarding once we hit the "road" on the back side.

I was wondering if anyone had input on a variation of the AC itinerary. I was given this one to think about...

Day 1: Drive to trekking starting point at Ramkot and walk to laxmi bazaar (Karputar)

This is beaten path not crowded and very basic accommodation and local food till day 4

Day 2: walk to Nalma – 5 hours

Day 3: walk to Baglung pani – 5 hours

Day 4: walk to Ghalegaun – 4 Hours (home saty tourism being practice here)

Day 5: walk to Khudi or Bhulbhule – 6 hrs (We join the regular trail from here)

Day 6 : walk to Ghermu Phant – 6-7 hrs

Day 7: walk to Taal – 7 hours ( We will enter to the New district from here ( Manang)h

Day 8: walk to Danalque – 6 hours

Day 9: Chame (2700M)- 5 hours (Head quarter of Manang District)

Day 10: Pisang (3200M)- 7 hours

Day 11: Manang (3500M)- 6 hours

Day 12: Rest at Manang (Acclimatization day and altitude talk at Himalayan rescue association)

Day 13: khangsar (3770M) on the way to Tilicho Lake (highest lake in the world) – 4 hrs

Day 14: Tilicho base camp (4000M)- 5 hrs

Day 15: Tilicho Lake (4900M) and back to the Tare gomba (3900M) 7hrs

Day 16: Yak kharka (4100M) 6 hrs

Day 17: Phedi or High Camp (4550M/ 4800M) 4 hrs

Day 18: Cross the Throng la (5417M) and arrive to Muktinath (3800M) 8 – 10 hrs

Muktinath is popular place for Hindu and Buddhist. Many temple and monasteries.

Day 19: Kagbeni (2800M), Ancient center for salt trade route and famous for more than 550 rear old monastery. Mustang Eco museum is worth visit.- 3-4 hours

Day 20: Jomsom (2700M) Head quarter of Mustang district and windy valley.- 3 hours

Day 21: fly out from Jomsom to Pokhara

Parts of this seem a little easy at the beginning, but we can always change that as we go. Any input or current trip reports?

Also, my wife is a "cold" person (not only cold sleeper), so I am debating what type of gear to bring for her but still keep her pack light and her mind happy (I think I will carry some of her weight - I like that anyway). I have seen the lists on the site here and will try to mimic most of them, but I only have two bags that we could use - one is a -20f bag and the other a +20f bag. I sleep pretty warm and think I will be fine with the +20 and johns - even on a cold night. Does anyone think the other bag (4 lbs worth) is too much for her?

Thanks for any advice or trek updates!

[yakshaver]

Your trek is excellent. The road building is more obvious on the Kali Gandaki valley (Jomsom to Beni). But you do the Marsiangdy side and fly out of Jomsom. It is an awesome trek, and no "traffic". Also do not imagine you'll be tripping over other tourists... You will meet some, but it is definitely not anywhere near what you see in some European mountain walks (or American I imagine) in season.

If you have time, go up to Upper Pisang, and then before Manang it is worth visiting Braga. Also from Manang there's a nice half day trip to Gangapurna Glacier, which is very good for acclimatization. Also before Kagbeni, it is worth visiting Jharkot for an hour or so. Nice old village, very "traditional".

In regards to warmth, I am not sure what about Fahrenheit stuff, sorry...
But a good downe sleeping bag, plus sleeping in long pants and long sleeved underwear usually is enough. All lodges provide you with extra blankets if needed.

March should be relatively mild, but the nights above Manang will still be somewhat cold at night. During the day it should be quite mild, no need to worry too much, as you'll be mostly walking or taking a break in some lodge - so you'll be warm.

[Petrus]

There is one MAJOR mistake in your route: From Pisang you MUST go to Ghyaru, stay overnight there, then continue to Ngawal and Braga.

Ghyaru is already 100m higher than Manang, you gain one valuable acclimatization night there (and can skip the extra Manang day if you want). Besides the views are tremendous and villages most original there are along the whore route!

Please.... Why walk the valley floor when you can take a scenic highway?

[Robert]

An excellent alternative on Ngawal/ Manang route is to branch off at the water powered Mani wheel at Ngawal and continue along a well worn path up towards the large Monastery, continue on past here and down the steep hill to the village of Julu. very quiet and peaceful, great views, no trekkers! joins back on the main track at Mugji

[Suginami]

Thanks Robert. I like the sound of this.

[Petenaz]

Thank you all for the great input. We are not as concerned about "finishing" the AC as we are about enjoying what Nepal has to offer. We will look at all the recommendations and see if we have a good itinerary for a 20-22 day trek. I think we will be able to step it out a little bit more than some of the people we have talked to expect (at the lower altitudes). I think it would be better to to get high and do side trips if we can and then fly back from Jomson. I only worry that we are missing some great areas past Jomson on the back half of the circuit - is that the case or do you all feel it is better to focus on the way up and the side trips near manang and Tilcho lake?

Thanks again!

[Oli]

I also vouch for the high route between Pisang and Manang, not only is it good for acclimatisation but the view of the eastern range of Annapurna is excellent.

I'd also suggest a day around Muktinath. When I passed through my itinerary was much like yours, arrive tired/late and leave next morning. But then I attended a lecture in Kathmandu (@ KEEP) where I heard so much about the place that I was amazed by how much I'd missed and I am longing to go back. My tip would be to have a rest day around Muktinath, spend a night in Jharkot.

But those things said, the whole circuit is lovely. The views and locality do vary as you walk through different elevations and cultural backgrounds. Unless you have a lot of time you wont see everything. Perhaps is best to not worry about the few things that you skip passed and just enjoy the things that you do meet.

[Lars]

I think it would be better to to get high and do side trips if we can and then fly back from Jomson. I only worry that we are missing some great areas past Jomson on the back half of the circuit - is that the case or do you all feel it is better to focus on the way up and the side trips near manang and Tilcho lake?
I have never been to Tilicho lake so can not comment on that. But there
are definitely nice places along the way between Jomsom and Pokhara too.

Marpha is very nice, Tatopani with its hot springs are nice and I like
Gorepani too, even though it is a tough climb up there.

Lars
Luang Prabang

[jbagne]

hello ,

you can see my pictures from last trek :

http://www.pbase.com/jbagne/nepal_2005

http://www.pbase.com/jbagne/nepal_2008

jean