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View Full Version : Jiri to Salpa/Arun & Tumlingtar?


Landfall38
24th October 2008, 12:41 PM
We're still considering all our options for our December (2008) trek...

Anyone done the trek from Khumbu (Bupse or Lukla etc) to Tumlingtar -- that is, the Salpa/Arun trek?

Anyone done this in the past few years?

We are considering Jiri to Bupse to Tumlingtar (yup, bypassing Namche and above -- been there 3 times already -- though we might end up there yet).

Any recent info would be appreciated.

Thanks.

thesilvertops
24th October 2008, 02:15 PM
We did this trek the other way in the spring of 2001. Flew to Tumlingtar, hiked in to Khumbu, visited all the valleys and then trekked out to Jiri. We had lots of time and took 47 days over it. There were a limited number of lodges on the Tumlingtar - Pangum section. The route had previously been promoted by the authorities and there was a good booklet about the hike. However, the take up had been poor and the lodges were often closed. I don't know if the situation has improved since. It is a good walk though, it's very quiet and I would do it again. It is very rural Nepal. There are 3 passes to cross, with deep valleys in-between. Gudel and Bung come to mind and you can find Tilman's verse "The prospect of Gudel from Bung" on the internet. I can let you have access to images of the booklet if you wish.

rich
26th October 2008, 12:14 PM
Hi there if you are happy to post your email here or send me a private message with your email address I will send you an updated guide for this trail (Lukla - Tumlingtar over Salpa La) in pdf format. I did it in 2001 and again earlier this year. It is still just trekable but the logistics are critical if you are relying on lodgings.

thesilvertops
27th October 2008, 01:17 AM
Would you send me a copy please. I'm tempted to do it again.
email: thesilvertops(at)hotmail.com

Thank you.

kegarne
27th October 2008, 04:52 AM
Hi,

Could you send me a copy as well please.

wirthy_au@yahoo.com.au

Sharon
27th October 2008, 05:18 AM
Oh me two!
namastewhistler at shaw.ca
Thanks!

Escher
27th October 2008, 02:15 PM
Me three please. escher at escher dot myzen dot co dot uk

Landfall38
27th October 2008, 09:29 PM
Well, this hit a positive note!

Thanks Rich -- I've sent you a PM to receive a pdf.

Lars
2nd November 2008, 05:07 AM
Anyone done the trek from Khumbu (Bupse or Lukla etc) to Tumlingtar -- that is, the Salpa/Arun trek?

Anyone done this in the past few years?

We are considering Jiri to Bupse to Tumlingtar (yup, bypassing Namche and above -- been there 3 times already -- though we might end up there yet).

I have exited Khumbu through Arun valley 4 times. 1989 Kala Pattar to Hille,
1990 Gokyo to Hille, 1998 Kala Pattar to Tumlingtar and 2003 Gokyo to
Tumlingtar. Plus I went in to Khumbu from Tumlingtar in 1993.

All treks were tea house, without guide or porters.

It is a great trek, lovely area, very few trekkers! It is quite far between
the lodges and you need to know where they are at.

I would also very much appreciate the pdf on recent conditions there.
lars_traveller at gmail.com

rich
2nd November 2008, 10:38 AM
Hi Lars
Could you post your email here or send me a private message and I will send you the .pdf
Would very much appreciate your comments based on your treks.

rich
2nd November 2008, 10:44 AM
woops
I can see it now
rich

rich
2nd November 2008, 10:55 AM
Hi Lars
I've tried that email twice now and gmail has rejected it both times.
any clues?
rich

Lisa
4th November 2008, 03:02 PM
Hey rich,

May I have a copy of the pdf file too? lisamlh2001 at yahoo dot com dot sg.

Thank you!

yakshaver
4th November 2008, 09:13 PM
Hello Lisa,

Long time no hear m'lady... How are things going? Planing another trek?

Lars
7th November 2008, 03:41 AM
I've tried that email twice now and gmail has rejected it both times.
Sorry about that, my bad. Anyway we got it straightened out and I have read
your excellent write-up of that route. Thanks for mailing it to me.

We seems to have stayed quite much in the same villages, even same
lodges, and in Salpa Phedi the very same room. It is so sweet!

The only real difference is that last I stayed at Ghote Bazaar rather than
Kattike Pul. Actually I have not been able to figure out which place that is.
I can not find it on my map, and not on Google Earth.

It was a real pleasure reading your write-up. It is well written in a very
professional style. Reading it triggered flashbacks from my own treks. I
recalled seeing those frames for drying paper etc. That particular day has
such lovely trekking!

I have written down some notes about the section between Tumlingtar and
Hille that I will mail you separately.

rich
7th November 2008, 05:44 AM
Thanks Lars
Glad you enjoyed it
Now in my interpretation Kartike Pul is the long village on the west bank of the Arun. The long bridge over the Arun is here.
The lodge is directly opposite the west end of the bridge

Balawa Besi being the village immediately at the base of the hill. There is no lodge here.

Kartike is only a few minute along the trail through the fields from Balawa Besi, so they are really quite close.

Unless I've made some fundamental map reading error, I'm sure thats correct. Funny thing is that people kept telling me there was a lodge in Balawa Besi, when there clearly was not. So perhaps there is some local interpretation.

I think the Silvertops may have had the same experience. Also, on their trek in 2001, they seemed to have stayed in quite different lodges most of the way. They recall a lodge somewhere between Kartike and Gothe Bazaar run by a swiss guy - do you know of this?? In Feb 2008 there was only one building near the top of the hill(overlooking the Arun) which looked like anything close to a lodge.

Rich

rich
7th November 2008, 05:59 AM
[QUOTE=Lars] We seems to have stayed quite much in the same villages, even same lodges, and in Salpa Phedi the very same room. It is so sweet!

Yeah, one of my favourite rooms. Stayed 3nights in total in that room. Lovely little balcony. Very basic but homely. I remember the kids spying on my through the gaps in the wall thinking I didn't know they were there. The family sleep up there too. Nice family, the kids were good fun there. Coming from Lukla direction I recall being really embarassed at how little they charged for food and board there - would have paid twice as much.

I have read of people getting nocturnal visits from the Maoists while staying there. Hopefully those times are gone.

rich

kegarne
7th November 2008, 10:17 AM
Real good write up Rich - congrats on the effort you have put in - if I ever get to that area in the future i will definitely use your notes.

Cheers

Lisa
7th November 2008, 12:08 PM
Hello Lisa,

Long time no hear m'lady... How are things going? Planing another trek?


hey,I'm good.:) Been away travelling in the region for pleasure since last nov. Now working to raise my next travel fund.:D Trekking in Nepal?Yes, most likely to happen in 2009. The friend has shelved the kanchenjanga plan and replacing it by manaslu. :mad: So either i formed my own group or I join his group to manaslu. The dilemma is i like both trek.:o

yakshaver
8th November 2008, 03:30 AM
hey,I'm good.:) Trekking in Nepal?Yes, most likely to happen in 2009. The friend has shelved the kanchenjanga plan and replacing it by manaslu. :mad: So either i formed my own group or I join his group to manaslu. The dilemma is i like both trek.:o

I am interested in doing Manaslu. Please keep me informed if you don't mind. Cheers

Lars
8th November 2008, 04:18 AM
Now in my interpretation Kartike Pul is the long village on the
west bank of the Arun. The long bridge over the Arun is here. The lodge is
directly opposite the west end of the bridge

Balawa Besi being the village immediately at the base of the hill. There is no lodge here.

Funny thing is that people kept telling me there was a lodge in Balawa Besi,
when there clearly was not. So perhaps there is some local interpretation.
The first three times I came that way I stayed with a Hindu Chetriya family.
Their teenage son spotted us from afar and called us with an offer to stay at
their place, which we were happy to accept. We had chiya and dhal bat and
some sweet fruit on their veranda.
A bit later as it was getting dark the family moved inside the house without
inviting us to join. We took it for granted that we should go inside too, and
were quite embarassed when they shooed us out. They were cast hindus and
we were not, and so could not enter their house. We slept on the veranda.

Next morning we were a bit stunned when the didi wanted 100 Rs from each
of us. The previous days we had paid maybe 25 for similar fare, and slept
indoors.

When I returned to that area the following year (1990), I was glad to be
spotted again by that same son. I had dhal bat again and slept on the
veranda, and expected to pay another 100 Rs. But then the lady wanted 600!
I felt a bit ripped off but I had also been stupid not to ask beforehand how
much she wanted. Obviously I had to pay up. But I did think a lot about the
lovely didi at Salpa Phedi, a Rai woman, who had been so sweet and so
concerned that I should enjoy the food and feel comfortable in my room.
I had had more chiya there and bought some small stuff in her pasal and still
her bill had been less than 100 Rs.

Another 8 years later I was back again. By then the family father had passed
away and the son was now the 'man in the house'. He was married but his
mother lived with them and she was probably still the real boss. The son had
studied in Kathmandu and spoke good English. I got along well with him. He
invited me inside to have dinner with the family and then gave me a good
room in an adjacent house. It may have been his room before the father
passed away.

Again I had not asked any price but felt confident that the son would not
overcharge me. But of course he was nowhere to be seen when it was time
to settle next morning. I think the old bag took me for a thousand.

Last time I was there, in 2003, I stayed in Ghote bazaar. There is a
commercial lodge with a menu and fixed prices. I did look up the Chetriya
house next morning because I had brought a present for the son. I never
found him though, only the old lady and she seemed not to understand me
when I asked for Ram, her son. She offered me soft drinks, which I turned down.


.. the Silvertops ... They recall a lodge somewhere between Kartike and Gothe Bazaar run by a swiss guy - do you know of this?
Don't know anything about a Swiss guy. I did see a lodge, in 1998, about 2
hours out from the Chetriyas, just as I had come down a hill, and indeed
overlooking Arun. I stopped by and enquired. There was a couple of Nepali
ladies and they said it was a lodge. Looked fine enough.
But when I was back in 2003 it had ceased to be a lodge and was just an
ordinary family's house.

I remember that long bridge! First time I passed, a young girl came running
after us all the way to the other side. She collected the fee for passing of
the bridge. It was one rupee each.

I think I had lunch once at Balawa Besi. Just as I was about to leave they
carried in a man on a simple stretcher. He had fallen down from a high tree
and broken his leg. It was all swollen and looked awful. He was in a lot of
pain and cried out loudly. There was no doctor around and people asked me
if I had any medicine to help him.

I was reluctant at first but then gave his helpers all the pain killers I had,
about 10 pills. I told them to give him 1 now, and if necessary another 1
after an hour, but to go easy on them. A few hours later as I was pausing
for tea they carried the stretcher past. The man on it was singing!
The had probably given him all the pills, and maybe some rakshi too.

Lars
8th November 2008, 04:28 AM
I have read of people getting nocturnal visits from the Maoists while staying there. Hopefully those times are gone.
I was visited by a Maoist there. It was in the morning just as I was packing up.
It was a young woman who spoke no English so she had brought along another
woman as interpreter. I showed them the receipt I had from paying on the
other side, and refused to pay again.

Later I have understood that they ran different Maoist operations in different
areas and by their rules she was correct in demanding an another "donation".

Indeed hope that crap is no more. I much prefer giving donations to schools.