Road to Somdang

[cyclingpaul]

Does anyone know what the road is like from Dunche to Somdang, at foot of Ganesh Himal?

Is the road motorable by cars or jeeps or is it in bad shape?

Is there any sort of public transport going there? Anyone hired a jeep or similar to get there from KTM?

Also, is there any accomodation there?

I'm not sure of the correct spelling for Somdang, it's spelt differently in different places, sorry if I got it wrong!

Cheers,

Paul

[kiwigirl]

on page 300, Treking in the Nepal Himalaya, it there seems to be an unsealed major road between Dunche to Somdang and spelling is right :)

this is the info I found on the web. I am not sure how old the information is though . . . . .
DHUNCHE AND SOMDANG http://www.infohub.com/destinations/asia/Nepal/Dhunche-and-Somdang/

Beyond Trisuli the road is unpaved, steep and agonizingly slow, buses taking four hours to cover this 40km stretch. You may prefer to close your eyes as the bus negotiates some of the switchbacks. Foreigners must show trekking permits at a couple of different army posts above Trisuli.

The road has replaced what used to be the first two days of the Langtang trek, and DHUNCHE , an unmemorable administrative centre, has boomed since its completion. Dhunche's guest houses are clustered around the main drag just past the town gate and are all up to Rs140 (US$2) or Rs140-200 (US$2-3) en suite - Hotel Langtang View has a good restaurant and hot water. To return to Kathmandu, make sure to book your seat as early as possible the day before.

Beyond Dhunche, the road angles down to cross the Trisuli River, then climbs continuously to cross a ridge at around 3700m before descending slightly to the lead- and zinc-mining centre of SOMDANG , 34km northwest of Dhunche. Incredibly, there's a small hotel there, Ganesh Himal Resort (en suite US$20-40), but you can't book ahead because it has no telephone, and you have to bring all your own food.



Does anyone know what the road is like from Dunche to Somdang, at foot of Ganesh Himal?

Is the road motorable by cars or jeeps or is it in bad shape?

Is there any sort of public transport going there? Anyone hired a jeep or similar to get there from KTM?

Also, is there any accomodation there?

I'm not sure of the correct spelling for Somdang, it's spelt differently in different places, sorry if I got it wrong!

Cheers,

Paul

[Suginami]

Funny resort if it has no food and for that price! The road extends beyond Dunche to Syabrubensi which is where the buses and cars terminate. You could cycle all of this. I have walked it. Syabrubensi is quite a nice place if you walk up the trail a bit.

[Escher]

This thread is crying out for a local guide to provide some useful, up-to-date information. So come on guides help us out, you're the experts, provide us with some local information. You never you might get some business if you are helpful.

[yakshaver]

This thread is crying out for a local guide to provide some useful, up-to-date information. So come on guides help us out, you're the experts, provide us with some local information. You never you might get some business if you are helpful.

The guy I know, who has given good info contributions and has never pushed his business at the same time, is Trekking Guide (High Altitude Porter). I will try to convince him to participate here.
He's occasionally posting on yetizone, as people probably know.

[Escher]

It would be good to have him along. Based on what you have told us he is an excellent guide, with in depth knowledge who could provide us all with great -up-to-date information. But of course he doesn't need to tout for business because his skills and experience mean he is always busy.

As I am sure you are aware I am trying to goad the spamming guides into doing something useful. The fact that they can't/won't answer these sorts of questions just confirms to me the reason why they constantly post nothing but adverts and High Altitude Porter does not (nor needs to). Perhaps my crusade will achieve nothing but I am going to try!

[yakshaver]

It would be good to have him along. Based on what you have told us he is an excellent guide, with in depth knowledge who could provide us all with great -up-to-date information. But of course he doesn't need to tout for business because his skills and experience mean he is always busy.

As I am sure you are aware I am trying to goad the spamming guides into doing something useful. The fact that they can't/won't answer these sorts of questions just confirms to me the reason why they constantly post nothing but adverts and High Altitude Porter does not (nor needs to). Perhaps my crusade will achieve nothing but I am going to try!

On the other website he's alwasy stack with the facts, never pushed anything. It is just a matter of convincing him to try trekinfo. I have emailed him, we'll see...

About your endeavour regarding other guides, it would be difficult I guess...
Worth a try though.

[cyclingpaul]

Cheers guys and gals, thanks for your comments.

I have been on the road myself as far as Syabrubensi, but no further. The road looks fine but you never seem to hear of anybody actually going up it any further than that, I don't know why. There must be some good trekking up there and it is very near Kathmandu, so it should be more well known I reckon. I have not heard of any trekkers starting routes from Somdang, again this seems strange to me. Maybe it is a case of the herd instinct applying? Or maybe Somdang is a total and utter dump!!

I doubt that there are any Army restrictions these days, maybe it hs been a restricted area in the past??

I'll have a look on some mountain biking websites and report back. I'm sure someone will have ridden that route. I almost did it myself once we but bottled it at Trisuli due to mutiny within our group and proximity to the KTM fleshpots.

[kiwigirl]

I must admit that sentence sounds very interesting . . . .
:)
QUOTE =cyclingpaul I almost did it myself once we but bottled it at Trisuli due to mutiny within our group and proximity to the KTM fleshpots.[/QUOTE]


Cheers guys and gals, thanks for your comments.

I have been on the road myself as far as Syabrubensi, but no further. The road looks fine but you never seem to hear of anybody actually going up it any further than that, I don't know why. There must be some good trekking up there and it is very near Kathmandu, so it should be more well known I reckon. I have not heard of any trekkers starting routes from Somdang, again this seems strange to me. Maybe it is a case of the herd instinct applying? Or maybe Somdang is a total and utter dump!!

I doubt that there are any Army restrictions these days, maybe it hs been a restricted area in the past??

I'll have a look on some mountain biking websites and report back. I'm sure someone will have ridden that route.
I almost did it myself once we but bottled it at Trisuli due to mutiny within our group and proximity to the KTM fleshpots.

[cyclingpaul]

Kiwigirl - not really all that interesting!

About 5 or 6 years ago, myself and 2 of my friends went to Nepal mountain biking. The trip was in some ways a bit of a disaster from start to finish. We arrived to find that the monsoon was late and still in full swing. Not great for cycling! We did a shake down trip up to the top of Pulchowkhi - this coincided with torrential rain and the local "cutting off the head off an animal" festival, so the roads were awash with giblets,litter and mud. One of my friends was really put off at this point and wanted to go home. Fortunately he decided to carry on.

We then went from KTM to Pokhara by road, which was great because there was a Maoist blockade and no motorised traffic was travelling so we had the road to ourselves.

After a few day trips around Pokhara we embarked on our main target - Pokhara to Kathmandu off road. We had no decent maps so we navigated by the lie of the land and by large-scale maps. We were continually "lost" but seemed to be heading vaguely East so we were not too bothered. We managed to get some sort of lodging in most villages, even if it was sometimes the local school or shop. However, things turned a bit scary when we entered a village to find that the Maoists had just slaughtered 2 headmen in a very brutal way. The place was tense and we felt foolish being there. My mate who had wanted to go home was really upset and worried.

Anyway, we got to Gorkha, which we thought would be OK. However, the troubles were still in evidence there, with a curfew etc. My mate panicked and called the UK Foreign Office who predictably advised we should get out of the area ASAP.

This we did, but we got lost again and had 1 night sleeping in a small village before we got to Trisuli.

At that point I was all for a foray up to Somdang but the rest of the gang just wanted to get into the safety and beer of KTM!! We got to Kakani that day and had a few cool ones.

PS Despite all this it was a great trip, especially viewed from a distance!!

[kiwigirl]

Wow!! that is such an incrediable trip :)

All we struck last May was a couple of strikes and one of them was on the way to Chitwan, the children of the school decided to set up a road block because the govt wouldnt pay for their school books! so we got there and there were miles of trucks and traffic piling up. no one thought to remove the roadblock, after all they were only children!! we waitied 5 hours before we were allowed to get through. here is a picture :)

http://www.pbase.com/kerrym/image/99167321


Kiwigirl - not really all that interesting!

About 5 or 6 years ago, myself and 2 of my friends went to Nepal mountain biking. The trip was in some ways a bit of a disaster from start to finish. We arrived to find that the monsoon was late and still in full swing. Not great for cycling! We did a shake down trip up to the top of Pulchowkhi - this coincided with torrential rain and the local "cutting off the head off an animal" festival, so the roads were awash with giblets,litter and mud. One of my friends was really put off at this point and wanted to go home. Fortunately he decided to carry on.

We then went from KTM to Pokhara by road, which was great because there was a Maoist blockade and no motorised traffic was travelling so we had the road to ourselves.

After a few day trips around Pokhara we embarked on our main target - Pokhara to Kathmandu off road. We had no decent maps so we navigated by the lie of the land and by large-scale maps. We were continually "lost" but seemed to be heading vaguely East so we were not too bothered. We managed to get some sort of lodging in most villages, even if it was sometimes the local school or shop. However, things turned a bit scary when we entered a village to find that the Maoists had just slaughtered 2 headmen in a very brutal way. The place was tense and we felt foolish being there. My mate who had wanted to go home was really upset and worried.

Anyway, we got to Gorkha, which we thought would be OK. However, the troubles were still in evidence there, with a curfew etc. My mate panicked and called the UK Foreign Office who predictably advised we should get out of the area ASAP.

This we did, but we got lost again and had 1 night sleeping in a small village before we got to Trisuli.

At that point I was all for a foray up to Somdang but the rest of the gang just wanted to get into the safety and beer of KTM!! We got to Kakani that day and had a few cool ones.

PS Despite all this it was a great trip, especially viewed from a distance!!

[cyclingpaul]

I thought I would report back with any information I have managed to obtain re Somdang situation. In short, not a lot. Not even a photo.

However, I found a great Belgian website ( with English translation ) called www.ganesh-himal.be . It's a mine of information, some of it very interesting ( e.g the illegal local trade with China in a special sort of mushroom, called yartshagumba. Used by Chinese athletes. I'm not making this up ). I recommend the website.

I have found a lot of general information about Ganesh Himal trekking, seems like a camping trek sort of area, but obviously loads of potential for teahouse trekking in the future if it develops. Sadly, most of the trekking itineraries are very "cut and paste" so I doubt that many of these firms have actually gone to the area. Again, I can only say I'm surprised that more trekking doesn't go on in this area. After all, it is close to KTM and you don't need any permits at all from what I can see.

Any guides out there,please correct me!

[Oli]

I thought that the "Road to Somdang" was a film with Bob Hope and Bing Crosby ;)

(the road) Not even a photo.... (but) www.ganesh-himal.be

On that site I just found this (http://www.ganesh-himal.be/spip.php?article38) article.... download the .pdf and scroll down to page 6.... there is a photo of "the road just before Somdan". That might well be doable in a 4x4. Looks ideal/easy for mountain biking.

I'm thinking I might make a visit to Ghorka in the first week of January - just because I haven't been there. Maybe...

[Landfall38]

I believe Sharon has trekked in the Ganesh Himal area.
Sharon?

[Escher]

Info about road to Somdang (http://www.trekinfo.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19420)

[kiwigirl]

Info about road to Somdang (http://www.trekinfo.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19420)

isnt it great to find a guide who will answer our questions :)


"Road to Somdang
Does anyone know what the road is like from Dunche to Somdang, at foot of Ganesh Himal?
The road from Dhunche to Shaybrubeshi is suitable for local transport also but above Shaybrubeshi the road is quite rough but if one hires a private jeep then the jeep can go upto there (Somdang).

Is the road motorable by cars or jeeps or is it in bad shape?
The road is quite rough for a car but landcrusier jeeps can go on that road.
Is there any sort of public transport going there? Anyone hired a jeep or similar to get there from KTM?
Sometimes if there is chance then it might be possible to find some jeeps from Shyabrubeshi to Somdang also otherwise we can take a jeep from Kathmandu to Somdang.

Also, is there any accommodation there?
Above Shyabrubeshi there are no accomodation available, one will have to camp there.

I'm not sure of the correct spelling for Somdang, it's spelt differently in different places, sorry if I got it wrong!"
The spelling for Somdang seems correct according to our map here also.

[thesilvertops]

Kiwigirl:we waitied 5 hours before we were allowed to get through. here is a picture

A nice set of pictures. I particularly liked the elephants - "Mother and child"
I'm now going to browse your pictures of your homeland. We spent 8 weeks there in 2002 on our round-the-world trip. :)

www.pbase.com/thesilvertops

[cyclingpaul]

Thanks for the useful info re Somdang. Plenty to be going on with!

Oli - re Gorkha. I have been there twice. On the first occasion I was with my biking buddies as I have previously mentioned. I also went with my wife and 3small kids ( all under 10 ) this last Christmas/New Year, along with another family also with 3 small kids.

It is a great place with outstanding views to the south. The palace is incredible and full of interest, with 360 degree views all around. The people ( except as below ) were very friendly indeed and I couild have spent a week in the local area exploring. You will see very few tourists staying there, although quite a view tours pass through during the day.

However, our visit was again marred by a tense situation between the army/police and the YCL. Our hotel ( Gorkha Inn ) was overrun for a day by the YCL who were having a "conference" there with senior local leaders. I'm not sure the hotel owner had a lot of say in the matter, he certainly did not seem happy. Along with these leaders there were about 20-30 YCL thugs providing "security", all armed with cudgels and sticks and quite hostile towards us. They basically took over the hotel and were lounging around everywhere, staring at the other guests. It was a shame, as the hotel itself is really, really nice. Police were standing around near the hotel but did not enter.

We planned on staying for a few days but the kids were frightened by the atmosphere so we left as soon as we could. There was also a de facto curfew still in place and after dark the streets were deserted apart from the Army in fortified guardposts. Anyway, we hired a small microbus to take us back to KTM but we got stuck in a violent road block incident so the journey took 14 hours in the end. That's another story.

I hope this doesn't come across as negative, just truthful. I would happily go there again as it is a great place and I think that the security environment is a lot, lot better now.

[Oli]

Oli - re Gorkha.... It is a great place with outstanding views to the south. The palace is incredible and full of interest, with 360 degree views all around. The people ( except as below ) were very friendly indeed and I couild have spent a week in the local area exploring. You will see very few tourists staying there, although quite a view tours pass through during the day.
Yep, that's why I want to visit Ghorka. :)
...YCL... I hope this doesn't come across as negative, just truthful. I would happily go there again as it is a great place and I think that the security environment is a lot, lot better now.
The YCL are a nasty bunch of criminal thugs, its lamentable that the politicians who pull the strings have very little control over their corrupt field commanders. Now that the war is "officially" over their is no excuse for the ongoing terrorisation of the Nepali people. Things are better now than a few years ago, but it's not nearly as good as it should be. :(

[rich]

The road to Somdang is pretty good for such an isolated area. I've only been as far as Parvati Kund (above Gatlang village) earlier this year.
After the climb up the switch backs above Syabru the road is flattish or a gentle climb only. Might be a bit gravelly if I recall correctly but easily bike-able. Very little traffic up there, just the occasional truck.
Places to go include Gatlang village, the ruined village of Khe-bho and Parvati Kund for a peaceful spot. I imagine the "big road"out from Kathmandu is a bit hairy at times for cyclists with all those blind corners.

[cyclingpaul]

Hey Rich, that's good info. I'm actually hoping to go there walking/trekking, not cycling. What was your itinerary? Were you able to stay in simple lodges up there or were you camping? Do you need to go into the area with a full crew or can you do it tea house style?

Any info appreciated.

If I went it would be some time in the next few weeks.

Cheers

Paul

[cyclingpaul]

OH YES! I'm off on Monday with my son Joe for just over 2 weeks in Nepal.

Got all this sorted literally in last day.

Anyone flown with Jet Airlines?

[Sharon]

I don't know how I missed this thread. I have been to somdang in the spring of 2004. I have posted some info on it in the Rolwaling thread. I called it so much dung. It is the worst sanitation of any place in Nepal I have been. There were working at a typical snails pace. WE did camp the whole trek and never saw another foreigner in 14 days.

[cyclingpaul]

Hi Sharon, did you enjoy the trek as whole, or did the sanitation put you off? Given that I'm taking a kid with me, I don't want to take undue hygiene risks.
:)

[rich]

Paul

I visited this area as part of the Tamang Heritage Trail trek after a trek in Langtang. itinerary was Kyangjim, Timure, Thuman, Tatopani, Gatlang, Syabru.
I didn't go all the way up to Somdang.
There is a good community lodge in Gatlang.

[Sharon]

The sanitation issue was only Somdong. Hopefully they have improves it by now. I loved the trek. It is cultural not the BIG views like other treks.

[cyclingpaul]

I have recently come back from my latest Nepal trip, and can partly answer my own original questions!

There is a rough road from Trisuli to Dunche as everyone knows. The road them significantly deteriorates going from Dunche to Syabru Bensi. There are public buses going all the way to and from Syabru Bensi, and also a "tourist" bus with posh seats that nobody at all seems to use for some reason.

A further public bus goes once or twice a day from Syabru Bensi as far as Chilime, on a road much the same as the one from Dunche. You would need a good head for heights on this road!!!

I'm sure it would be possible to hire a jeep to go further than that, although I understand there are no buses. There are jeeps milling around in Syabru Bensi, having brought people up there from KTM. I heard that people were paying 15,000 - 20,000 rps to hire a jeep from KTM to Syabru Bensi.

I thought prices in general had gone up a lot even since December last year.

:)

[kiwigirl]

can you tell us more about your trip :)

[cyclingpaul]

OK, at the risk of being very boring......
I got 2 cheap last minute fligts with Jet Airways via Delhi ( highly recommended ) and went for 2.5 weeks with my middle son, aged 8.

We sorted out our TIMS ( what a waste of time ) and arranged a porter in Kathmandu, then took taxi next day to Sunderijal ( 1000 rps ) to start the Helambu trek. I did this trek a few years ago and didn't remember anything about it at all. I discovered again why this is the case - the trek is very boring and the views are not spectacular. Along with this, I have to say that the Helambu trail itself is in a very poor state of disrepair. Often it is a muddly and slippy mess, either that or a pile of small boulders under foot.

Day 1 was to Chisopani - can I think of anything good to say about Chisopani? Er, no. Bugs were huge and lively. Lodge was an aesthetic disaster. Weather cloudy.

Day 2 was to Kutumsang, where we stayed in a nice lodge. That's all I remember. It was a very up and down day.

Day 3 was to Tharepati, where we actually started to see some good mountain scenery. Lodge was again basic but OK. It was cold.

Day 4 was over the Laurebina La to Gosainkund. Views were spectacular. After the pass the trail improved. Lodges in Gosainkund much improved compared to my last visit, although "fixed price" standard menus have made an appearance and costs are quite high compared to my expectations.

Day 5 was down to Thulo Syabru, which has morphed into a bit of a concrete mess, at least the upper part of the village. Spectacular rat action during the night in our room. The Tamang ladies will try to sell you anything, from socks to rocks.

Day 6 - up to just past Lama Hotel in a place called Woodland Lodge. It was as you might expect - a lodge in a small woodland clearing. Superb food and great atmosphere. A classic lodge! We had a great night. The Langtang trail was in good condition and full of interest if you like wildlife. Amazing birds. perfect trekking day.

Day 7 - up to Kyangin. Another long day but worth it. Kyangin now has about 20 large lodges but is still a compact and lovely place. What a location!

Day 8 - Rest day. Son played on his PSP, I ate. Bought some cheese which we gradually ate over the next few days until the smell became too much.

Day 9 - down the valley to past Lama Hotel.

Day 10 - high route via Sherpagoan to Syabru Bensi. Superb alternative route to the normal one straight down the valley. Stayed at Buddah Hotel in Syabru Bensi - recommended. It was clean and reasonably priced. No bugs!!

Day 11 - bus back. Enough said. I wish I had paid for a jeep.

Then 3 days in Kathmandu.

A few random observations....

TIMS - nobody seemed interested in the slightest in checking this. They were only concerned with the park fee. I can't see it lasting long in it's current form. Nobody is making any money out of it, so nobody is interested in it.

Costs - have increased greatly in the hills. I partly blame standard fixed price menus, but in fairness I think transport costs have gone up a lot, putting up the costs for lodges and shops all over.

This might explain why I didn't see any lodges using kerosene. Without exception they were back to using firewood for cooking and solar for light.

Helambu trek was very quiet and hardly trekked at all, even in peak season.

Langang is booming in a positive way, with greatly improved lodges and a very nicely made trail. Sanitation and litter were generally very well managed, it was a credit to Nepal.

Cheers
Paul

[kiwigirl]

Costs - have increased greatly in the hills. I partly blame standard fixed price menus, but in fairness I think transport costs have gone up a lot, putting up the costs for lodges and shops all over. Quote


Last May I paid $5US per meal in Namche, Monzo and Lukla with $15US per night in Namche for a room with bathroom and the dorms were $2US per night
Monzo and Luka were $12 per night also with bathroom and $5 for meals.
Kathmandu guest house $10 per meal and rooms wtih bathroom average $30 per night

what were the prices in the Helambu compared to these ones?:)

[yakshaver]

Thanks for the summary Paul. If you have pics, I would appreciate them. We don't get many from Langtang.

[Landfall38]

Day 8 - Rest day. Son played on his PSP, I ate. Bought some cheese which we gradually ate over the next few days until the smell became too much.



yummm ... this part belongs in the "Yak cheese" thread!


Paul: Nice report -- thanks. How would a regular car do these days on the Trisuli to Dhunche road? (You probably noticed my reference to your trekinfo price quote on the Lonely Planet site)

[cyclingpaul]

Landfall - in my opinion a standard car would have next to no chance of making it to Syabru Bensi from KTM. There would not be enough ground clearance. I will try to attach a photo to show you the road. The jeeps I saw were top of the line Land Cruisers so maybe an older 4WD would be a lot cheaper than 15,000 to 20,000 rps I heard about?? Maybe you could get cheaper anyway if you bargained harder? I don't know.

Kiwi - prices were cheaper than that. I usually got a nice double room free of charge or at a nominal 100 or 200 rps. Main meals ( e.g momo or daal bhat ) were about 250-300 rps each. Soups and noodles and that sort of thing were about the 200 rps mark. Beer 350 rps at Kyangin. However, once you got out of the controlled areas with standard menus ( e.g. we had one day on the high route back to Syabru Bensi via Sherpagoan and Kyamgin ) food prices went down about 50%. My son and I spent approx 1500 rps per day on average but we were watching the pennies due to a shortage of cash rupees. Putting it in perspective, that is still incredibly cheap by UK standards.

Photos - Syabru Bensi to Dunche "road", Langtang Village, Kyangin and something for the cheese lovers!