Jiri-basecamp-K.Patar-Gokyo... april 2004 : info

[Lars]

Peter,

I have just come home from doing that specific trek. Oct 11 to Nov 16.

You don´t need a guide anymore than if you were to drive to a specific adress in Rome or Stockholm. That is, sure you need to get a map and once in a while you need to ask for directions.

Most people don´t not need a porter either.

We were stopped by the Maoists and had to make a "donation" of 1000 Rs. They were quite adamant about the money, but otherwise not threatening. As I understand no tourist has yet been harmed by the Maoists.

Yes you can find porters in most places. Ask in the lodges and they will help you find someone. Porters should be paid about 500 Rs per day, abt 8 Euros.

Phaplu airport was open. I met a couple of English guys who had come in that way. I think not dangerous. But flights are not as frequent as to Lukla. I think abt 3 flights a week.

Yes you can change money in Lukla and in Namche. Banks in Kathmandu do accept Euros, but it may be that in far away places dollars are the best. If you need to buy an airline ticket prices are normally in dollars, and I think you need to have just that. Best to have some change so you can pay excat fare.
In Kathmandu there are some ATM´s that honour Visa cards. The only adress I remember is Kathmandu Guest House.

Prices have gone up quite a lot in the Everest region. Unfortunately the trekking groups have moved from tents to the lodges and that is probably the reason for the price hikes. Expect to spend around 10 - 12 Euros a day. And do take some extra.

Lars

[Nothing to Pluck]

I can add that there were no chickens above Namche.

[Peter]

Thanks Lars, for this great information !!


Did you pass by the cho la pass ? No problem ?
Are there some lodges on that way ?
Can I mail you again later on , with other questions ?
Bye

Peter

[Lars]

Peter,

Yes, I did go over the Cho La. From east to west.
It is ridicously steep on the western side! And that
in a terrain of loose stones and scree.
It is so steep that once we had come down the steepest
part and looked back up it looks as if it would be almost
impossible going in the other direction. I do know that
people do it, quite a few. But I would *never* do it from
west to east!

There are 2 lodges in Dzonghla on the eastern side, and
in Dragnag on the western there are 4 - 5.

I took a GPS specifically to record a trace of the way over
Cho La and the glacier between Dragnag and Gokyo.
I also made quite a few waypoints on the way, like
where the trail splits and such. I believe that people
will start carrying GPSs more and more when trekking,
which particularly in areas that are at risk of getting
snowed over will improve safety and ensure that they
will not lose the trail.
Unfortunately there is no "chart datum" given on the
maps used by most trekkers, and indeed not much of
a grid either. That makes it nearly impossible to construct
a waypoint from the map beforehand. I intend to mail
the map publishers and ask what datum has been used
and suggest that it be printed on future editions.

I plan to make web page with some trekking pictures
and where I will also post these waypoints and the Cho La
trace. Once it is up I will post the URL here.
I also kept a pretty good record of how long time the
different passages took me. We found for instance that
the times given in Lonely Planets guide book were almost
always far shorter than what we managed.

By the way, I went out through the Arun Valley. A couple
of days longer but a nice alternative to those who want
to walk in and out.

Sure you can mail me. But in the general interest it may
be better if you post questions here and then drop me
a mail to say under what subject line you have posted.
Since I have just come from Nepal I check here quite
regularly now. But I may not drop in so frequently after
some time.

Lars

[%sig%]

[AMRIT BIKRAM]

hello my dear friend namaste!hope you are injoing with that excitement about doing sagarmatha trek from jiri to basecamp. iam amrit bikram trekking guide in himalaya since 11 yrs. please contact me through my email or call me my mobile no is 9810-26344 and my website is www.geocities.com/angelwalkmission
and brief answer of question yes you can change money while we are in ktm and maoist would not do anythigs bad but they may ask some fee.there is no plane in faplu. there are many good and bad companies sometime they ripe you off so its better if you do with reliable person aim not saying you must do with me but you must careful.if you come with me i will be charging just 21 us$ per day perperson including food n accomodation bus ktm to jiri. hoping to hear from you soon,amrit

[yakshaver]

Lars,

If I am not mistaken, you say you descended on the steeper side towards the west, that is coming down towards Gokyo and the Ngozumpa glacier... From my experience with mountains, it is always much easier to climb a steep slope, than it is do descend (technicaly I mean). How come you consider that particluar steep descent easier, and imply an ascent of the same slope more difficult?
Or have I missunderstood you completely??

[Lars]

Yakshaver,

I agree that it normally is easier to climb a steep slope than to descend it. But in this case the slope has lots of loose small stones on it. Going down you can slide. Going up you slide too, but in the wrong direction.

Peter,

If you have the time I suggest you do stay overnight in Gorakshep. You can do Kala Pattar in a day trip from Lobuche, but you would only be on Kala Pattar in mid day. It is nice to stay up there for sunset! Since Everest is the highest thing around, that is where the last sunrays are. Everest turns yellow, red and then purple. It is a view you will never forget!

The trek to the Base Camp itself is a good day trip from Gorakshep but will be a bit much when done from Lobuche.

I have been four times to Lobuche now. It was only this last time that I walked to to the Base Camp though, having previously heard that it was not worth it, because you could not see Everest from there.
It is definitely worth going to the Base Camp! The views from the glacier are absolutely overwhelming! It is a 360 degree massive experience that should not be missed!

Lars