Experienced guide for Manaslu?

[duploboy]

Hi there,
am planning to do Manaslu circuit mid-September. The agencies insist that it is a fully supported camping trek, but several gurus have suggested you can rough it in the local bhattis.

Anyone have experience with this and can suggest how doable this is?

I want to carry my own pack and take a porter-guide who knows the route well. Most of the guide reccommendations come from Pokhara or Everest so I want to make sure I find the right person who would know which houses to call at and might have some 'friends' in the villages.

Also, would it be sensible to take an extra porter (perhaps cook) with some extra bits and bobs, or would it be possible to get food along the way?

Many thanks in advance. Let me know if you want to join me!

[Sharon]

I went around in 2003. At that time there was nothiong at the base camp for larkya la and also nothing that night after crossing. WE did have a couple of ill people so maybe with a group in good shape you could make it down from Larkya la to a village. You could do it with a guide, porter and staying in tea houses. You would likely be eating dhal bhat every night. I have heard there has been an increase in tea houses on the circut.
I used Pemba SAherpa for that and 5 other treks. pembal15@yahoo.com

[Petrus]

As I understand it you could do it without a "safari style" crew, if:

a) you are an experienced mountain person willing and able to carry a considerable load (camping & cooking gear & food for several days).

b) you can find a guide who is willing to join you on this kind of solo endevour.

The "roughing it" part would really not be the teahouse stretch of the trek, but crossing a high, seldomly used and infrastuctureless pass where you need to camp at least 2 days if everything is perfect.

Manaslu is still a permit area and you must have at least a guide with you.

[duploboy]

Thanks guys...useful reports.

My plan would be to carry basic pack (~15kgs) hire a porter-guide and probably another porter with some extra food... but avoid tents etc.

A couple of guides I've spoken to (Western and Nepali) have suggested it is possible to find rough bhattis to sleep and cook along the way. Others have been less encouraging. Perhaps a guide who does the circuit regularly has friends to call on?

Am curious about the info you've both posted about the pass crossing. The 2001 LP trekking guide describes the Larkya rest house as "a stone hut large enough for porters and a kitchen." Bimtang on the other side is busy enough with "a few small lodges." This doesn't sound too bad to me, but is it accurate?

One guide has suggested skipping the rest house and that although Samdo to Bimtang is a long day it is definitely doable. I dare not speculate too confidently about my fitness, but I've done 10 hour days with 25+ kg packs before... although never at such altitude.

[Sharon]

I really question that Samdo to Bimtang is doable. Have you ever been at 5000 meters?
Also I think the point is to enjoy the trek and take lots of photos. What if it snows?

[duploboy]

I agree it sounds a bit forced to me and as I said I've no experience at that altitude. But is there any reason the hut wouldn't be comfortable enough with a thermarest and the right clothes?

Alternatively, if I did sign on for a camping trek with an agency, what size party would I need. How many porters and extra staff did you have? I've had a quote of $1405 p.p. which isn't horrendous.... but that would require another trekker, otherwise its $1725 on my own.

[Oli]

I've not done the Manaslu trek (yes, its rapidly climbing my "to do" list!) but I expect that it may be of similar scope to the Kanchenjunga trek that I did a few years ago.

My thoughts on this are that if you do plan to do the trek in the proposed style then you will definitely need a good guide, and a porter would certainly be advisable if you need to carry a tent and food to camp for a couple of nights. Bear in mind that the role of Guide and Porter are quite different, the former is a professional and the latter is a menial job. Generally speaking a guide will not be disposed to carrying any loads and a porter is not qualified to lead you through the wilds of Nepal. It is possible that there are a handful exceptional Nepali who are willing to fulfill both roles, but they are scarce.

(That said, a single "porter-guide" on one of the main teahouse trails is altogether more reasonable)

[duploboy]

My thoughts on this are that if you do plan to do the trek in the proposed style then you will definitely need a good guide

Hence the title of this post. ;-) Yeah I want to make sure I find not just the standard 'will take you anywhere' offer, but someone with experience of specific rest houses and necessary time commitments between legs.

Bear in mind that the role of Guide and Porter are quite different, the former is a professional and the latter is a menial job. Generally speaking a guide will not be disposed to carrying any loads and a porter is not qualified to lead you through the wilds of Nepal. It is possible that there are a handful exceptional Nepali who are willing to fulfill both roles, but they are scarce.

Yes the fabled 'porter-guide' seems as rare as the yeti! I wouldn't expect him to carry much if we were not to bring tents. Simply advise on the basic supplies necessary and split the load between us and an additional porter.

I wonder if Sharon could advise whether Pemba Sherpa would be inclined to organise such an affair, or whether he would be more inclined to go for the camping trek. And when you mention dhal bhat every night... is this very much more spartan than what a cook would provide otherwise? And can anyone comment on whether the $$ quote mentioned above is pretty typical for this.

Thanks guys.

[fishbeach22]

Larkya La might be difficult if it snows, and route finding is then a problem.
Better to find a guide who know the route even if there is a lot of snow.
When there is not snow, Larkya is quite straight forward. But long anyway, and over 5000 m.

[kolobar]

The situation in spring season 2008: Manaslu circuit east part is covered by basic teahouses between Arughat and Samdo well enough that you dont need to camp if you manage to cover enough distance to get to another teahouse.
TH are basic, serving dal bhat, noodles, rooms might be sometimes a bit uninspiring.
Two exeptions are guesthouses in Ro and Sumdo which are more AC-like.
Dont try to cross from Sumdo to Bimthang in a day. It is very unwise for acclimatization resons as well as it is a very (too) long day. Even Dharamsala to Bimthang is a long one, especially due to snow which makes porters progress/descent very slow. The fact is there are no TC in Dharamsala therefore you have to camp. It is possible to arrange additional porter in Ro or Sumdo. Bhimtang has basic TC and there is only one more place with TC on the western part of the circuit. But it takes only 2 days from Bhimtang to Dharapani therefore no camping...

[duploboy]

Hello again kolobar! Always helpful.... I've ended up going with a camping team as it was the best quote I was offered anyway (have put Dolpo to Mustang plan on the shelf for next time!). Plus I don't mind where I sleep, but some wholesome hygenic food is a bonus.

Have you any experience with the direct route from Temang to Pokhara via the Namun Bhanjyang? Do you know how many days this might take? The agency is having a think about it, but I'm not sure how many risks they want to take!