2 months - Recommendations

[zipperdoyle]

I'm planning on spending October and November in Nepal and was interested in climbing Mera and Island Peaks. I did the EBC trek two years ago, and I've climbed a few local and international mountains. I was planning on doing the Annapurna trek and then complete Mera and Island Peaks. I have a few questions that I need some assistance with:

1) How expensive would it be to climb both peaks? (I know that costs include permits, garbage, guide etc.)
2) Does anyone have any recommendations on a climbing guide with experience for those peaks?
3) What would you do with 2 months in Nepal? (already done EBC trek)

I have a guide in mind, but I wanted to get other forum members feedback.

Thanks again,

Zipper

[Escher]

I suspect Mera and Island Peak will be very crowded in October and November (but maybe a little less so later on in your trip). Costs are $350 per permit per peak (for less than 5 people - a bit more for more people) and around $300 per peak for a climbing guide. The garbage deposit is $250 (not sure if that is per peak). On top of that you will need gear/food/porters etc for camping (1 or 2 nights for Island Peak- many more for Mera) I've not climbed Mera but Island Peak is pretty straightforward and if you are a climber fixed ropes aren't really necessary. So I reckon you have 3 choices:-

1) Try and join another group to reduce costs and do the full fixed ropes thing. Personally jugging up a fixed rope to the summit diminishes the experience.

2) Create a small group/or just you and a guide and climb in the style you want.

3) Create a small group/or just you and a guide and go and climb some of the less popular peaks so as to avoid the inevitable scary and dangerous scrum you are likely to encounter on both peaks at that time of year. E.g. Nirekha, Pokalde, Kongma Tse and maybe Lobuche East. These also have the added benefit of not being as remote Mera and not requiring so much camping.

Alternatively you could tackle a trekking peak in the Annapurna region. Perhaps Pisang Peak, Tent Peak or the Chulus. There are also a couple of interesting peaks on top of the Thorung La that could be soloed up and down in a few hours.

If you go for the Khumbu I think you would still need to trek quite a bit there to get properly acclimatised. Personally even if I had trekked the AC I would still go up to Gokyo and over the Cho La before heading to whatever BC.

I didn't have a guide climbing with me when climbing in Nepal so I can't recommend one.

As for spending two months in Nepal: I would pick any two treks as they are all good and tag a trekking peak on just as you have. But I would also make sure I had time to hang out in Kathmandu and explore just 'cos I love the place and I would also visit the Terai and do some extended walking in the forest with just me and a guide.

So perhaps I would suggest the AC making sure that I visited Ngawal and Ghyaru (a must do side trip) and also up to Tilicho, adding the Sanctuary at the end. Then after some rest in Pokhara/KTM I would head to the Khumbu and go up to Gokyo and either go over the Cho La and head for Nirekha/Lobuche East/Kongma Tse so as to avoid the clusterf**k that would be occuring on both IP and Mera at that time of year. Or I would head over the Renjo La and head towards Pachermo and Traschi Labta (sp?).

Another alternative would be to take on a much more challenging trek like the Dhaulagiri Circuit. Something I have always wanted to do.

Lots of info on all these things on Jamie McGuinness's website (http://www.project-himalaya.com/info-trekking-peaks.html)