AC in August

[peteris]

I started to think about Annapurna in August again. I did AC in October/November 2005 and very like it (though there was unusual very big snow this time). I went through all forum but still have some questions. If somebody has some comments I will be very happy.

1) I understand that Besishar-Chame will be hot and wet. But HOW hot it would be? I’m not very well in very hot and wet conditions.
2) what recommendations about footwear between Besisahar-Chame? Waterproof, very pervious to air or something else? Or separate shoes for each day?
3) Yakshaver say he took chopper to Chame and this cost 1400$ some years ago. Maybe this is “have to do” option? Any comments on this?
4) I suppose today it’s possible to go some distance after Besisahar by jeep (I’m not a fan of this but maybe this is some alternative to go faster/easier this section). How far it would be and is it doable in monsoon time? Need you to arrange it before?
5) how cold it would be in Thorung Phedi/Tilicho Base Camp? I suppose quite a big difference in comparison to October/November.
6) what is better option to get to Besisahar? With car from Kathmandu or flight to Pokhara + car to Besisahar?
7) about flight from Jomsom to Pokhara – how many days in reserve for delayed flights? Same question about Pokhara-Kahtmandu flight.

Peteris

[kolobar]

1) It is not hotter than May. But you have to cope with great humidity. Your T-shirt gets soaked even if you stand still. And it will not dry overnight.
2) Bring good waterproof boots - many trails become muddy or turn into streams or both. There are now some sections on building sites (of the road) where walking is very exposed and trail almost nonexistent (after Jagat for instance).
3) There might also be flights to Humde. But I would walk in since it is quite an experience to walk lower part in monsoon - very intensive greenery and many waterfalls.
4) There is regular public jeep conection between Besi in Syange, no need to arrange it. Of course it depends what effect will monsoon rains have but the secion of the road between Bhulebhule seems much better built than still very rough Besi - Bhulebhule part. But dont bother too much about it - it is not that bad to trek in monsoon. Just be careful with landslides - this year a trekker was killed by a landslide just after Tal in April. Try to pass dangerous zones as quick as possible.
5) Dont miss Tilicho - it is a right season to do it. If you have a chance to camp cross Mesokanto la instead of Thorung la. It is much warmer in August than through main season. There are constant avalanches from Tilicho Peak and Grand Barienr and ice is falling into lake all the time. Mesokanto should be free of snow and therefore easy to cross - Jomsom side is quite steep which means quite tricky in snow.
6) Even if you fly to Pokhara there is still a long drive to Besi therefore a car from KTM to Besi is better option. You can also get a car all the way to Bhulebhule or probably to Syange as well (but should be 4WD).
7) It really depends on your luck. Take as much time as you can afford. There can be days of cancelled flights. I dont know about monsoon time but as I was told you can drive out as far as Ghasa, than walk to Tatopani and 3h walk after Tatopani you can get a jeep again to reach Beni.

[peteris]

Thank you very much, Kolobar!
Idea to go in August is mostly for Ghyaru - Tilicho part of trek. I don't know about Mesakanto La yet, it depend on others.
2) I think I will take pair of boots more than in main season. Every gore-tex boots get wet after some time and it willn't be easy to dry its.
3) Now I'm encouraged to go all the way :) We did Bahundanda-Chamje part in real rain so I have some idea of such trail. I think I will not hope to fly to Humde (Hongde), also yakshaver says that this is unreliable.
7) ok, it seems like roulette. Although idea of reserving many days for two flights don't look very pleasing. I know about some side treks from Jomsom and option to go to Besi fast is good to have. Is there difference between Jomsom-Pokhara and Pokhara-Kathmandu fligts?
Thanks again.

[kolobar]

7) You can fly both with Gorkha for instance. Good thing is that if your flight from Jomsom is cancelled you will still be able to postpone your KTM flight. Bad thing is that they fly with same planes which means KTM flight will be cancelled too if visibility is bad.
But I would not bother to fly Pokhara - KTM. It is better - cheaper and more reliable to go with a car. It will take same time or even less to reach KTM. Flights from Pokhara are often delayed, and checking in etc. takes some time. If you leave Pokhara early with a vehicle, you will be in KTM early afternoon.

[peteris]

you are right about vehicle. It's good option. Thank you again.

[Per]

We hiked from Besisahar in late July, it was not bad at all, can´t remember any rain or difficulties caused by the monsoon. There is really no need for special shoes or other special equipment. In the distant past when people started to hike in Dumre or even further away it was a different matter. Now, you will reach rain shaddow in three days.

[peteris]

Thank you Per, it's valuable information.

[yakshaver]

Good stuff from Per and Kolobar.

I did indeed fly to Chame by helicopter. But you can now go by vehicle a bit further than Besi. And maybe get to Chame in a couple of days, in order to get out of the wet. Normally it is about 3 days I think. I found the weather from Chame to Jomsom/Marpha quite pleasant. In fact on my second "wet season" trek last year, I found it quite ok further down past Lete. than it started to feel humid again.

But hey, it is not the end of the word. Just take some tropical strenght insect repellent for those 2-3 days in the wet, so that you can avoid leaches. I Australia we have Rid Tropical Strengh and Aeorgard etc, because in Oz you have all sorts of nasty critters. I found they are excellent against leeches too.

Indeed flying to Humde is very unreliable. I tried to fly in or out of there about 3 times, on "regular" flights, without success.
Regarding flying Jomsom, that is more relaible, and there are more airlines flying there. Though, like Lukla, it is weather dependent. But if you need to get out from Jomsom quickly these days - and the weather is not too good, you can hire a guy with a motorcycle, and on some stretches you can hire a 4wd, or hop on one, as they are nowdays plying on some of the stretches between Jomsom and Beni.