Manaslu?

[yakshaver]

Just want to gather some initial possible interest in a Manaslu trek in late 2008 or early 2009. Last time I checked with Santaman the trek needed to involve tenting, at least for some of the nights before and after Larkya La.
Things can change quickly in Nepal, and people adapt amazingly well to new demands, especially if they can make some money...As most of us tend to do.
I need to chek if new lodges have opened. But at this stage I still think this will be mostly a tenting trek.

[kegarne]

I could be interested depending on the timeframes and itinerary....

[Sharon]

This trek is my favourite. Take a few extra days so you can enjoy the many amazing side trips. 23 would be good I think. I had 18 on my trip.

[yakshaver]

Kegarne,

Thanks for expressing your interest, and I will definitely keep you posted. I had an excellent time with our group of 8 in the last Gokyo Fifth Lake trek, and my previous group treks have been pretty good as well. Looking forward to putting a group together for Manaslu too.

I have no firm timeframe in mind at this stage... It is more likely to be Spring or Autumn 2009 rather than Autumn 2008.



Sharon,
thanks for the engouragement and advice. When I get closer to a decision on dates I will contact you for a lot more details.

[Petrus]

Looks like we are going Manaslu-NarPhu-whatever next April-May, 44 days total. Might bump into your guys there...

[hatless]

G'day Yakshaver,

Nice timing with your thread. I am trying to persuade my wife to come over for a trek around Manaslu either at the end of this year or early next.

I see that you're also in Sydney. Where abouts do you live? I live in Kensington, so if you're anywhere near by, we could meet up for a beer and discuss.

Cheers,

h.

[Landfall38]

OK, it has been a LONG time since I went around Manaslu (1993, when I had no grey in my beard...)... BUT can you really teahouse trek all but the couple of days for Larkya La ???

Back in 1993 there were no (trekker) teahouses past (just above) Arughat Bazar until back on the circuit at Dharapani.... but then again, there was no paved road to Besi, yet alone a road to Syange.

I would caution about winter time crossing of Larkya. There can be A LOT of snow (there was in April 1993) and one is a long way from help.

Great trek.

[yakshaver]

Ok, a few things have clarified for me. It will definitely be in March/April 2009 for MANASLU. This autumn (October-November) an old friend, maybe 58 years of age..., is returning to Nepal after spending three months there in the hayday of the hippy era in the late sixties...
He wants to take me around Langtang and Helambu, in order to muse about youth and the irretrievable passing of time. Apparently he spend his days in Freakstreet and on trek with some Swedish nublie sheila...


Hatless,

I will make it there around Manaslu in early 2009. Yes I occasionally work in Sydney (teaching at UTS) and have my house in Cooranbong near Morisset on the Central Coast.

I am right now in Bucharest, on some business, and using it as base for trips to various parts of Europe (Santorini on the 9 May anyone??).

Will be back in Sydney for teaching in late June. Then back to Europe, and probably finally back to Australia (although nothing is final until you die..., and maybe even then... who knows... maybe for a short while.) in late August.


Would love to meet for a coffee/beer/dry red and a chat, maybe June or August.

[yakshaver]

OK, it has been a LONG time since I went around Manaslu (1993, when I had no grey in my beard...)... BUT can you really teahouse trek all but the couple of days for Larkya La ???

Back in 1993 there were no (trekker) teahouses past (just above) Arughat Bazar until back on the circuit at Dharapani.... but then again, there was no paved road to Besi, yet alone a road to Syange.

I would caution about winter time crossing of Larkya. There can be A LOT of snow (there was in April 1993) and one is a long way from help.

Great trek.

Thanks mate... High pass, will take care. I am crazy, but never reckless. If that makes sense.

[yakshaver]

Looks like we are going Manaslu-NarPhu-whatever next April-May, 44 days total. Might bump into your guys there...

Would love to meet and chat Petrus. Please keep us posted. I will.

[Sharon]

I crossed in early November. There was fresh snow. Apparently from what I read the pass is typically closed through the winter as of early November.

[kegarne]

Yeah my experience of March/April pass crossings on remote treks is fairly negative re snow. The winters tend to linger in the Himalaya and one can quite easily get snowed out especially late March.

[yakshaver]

Yeah my experience of March/April pass crossings on remote treks is fairly negative re snow. The winters tend to linger in the Himalaya and one can quite easily get snowed out especially late March.

Hm, well I have to see... My treks have typically been in December with some spills into early January. A couple of treks in June/July and one in April. The April one saw snow at Machermo, but not enough to block a pass.

We'll see about Manaslu, but I don't want to leave it too late in April as the views usually can become hazy for most of the day... At least that's what happened in Khumbu when I trekked there in April 2004.

[kegarne]

I agree with the April sentiment although you can be lucky depending on the year.
I crossed the AC in 2003 in March but it was real cold up high and not that pleasant overnight. The point about that is the AC have good lodges that protect you to some extent from the elements. Doing Manaslu at that time you will be tenting all the way and this would be much more extreme than the AC for example.
I got snowed out in Rolwaling in 2006 in March attempting Ramdung and the Tesi Lapcha. Really bad snowfall and subzero temps made it agonizingly cold at night as low as Beding which is only 3400 metres.:(

I have since decided it is much more comfortable doing remote treks in October,November, December timeframes.

[yakshaver]

I agree with the April sentiment although you can be lucky depending on the year.


I have since decided it is much more comfortable doing remote treks in October,November, December timeframes.

You may be right. Our Gokyo trek in Dec/Jan a few month ago vas very pleasant. At Gokyo and Fifth Lake view point it got a bit cold, but only in patches, and mostly at night (-18 during the night, and +12 during the day at Gokyo, for example).

[kegarne]

Again in that instance when you hike back in the afternoon from the Fifth lake you have a choice of magnificent lodges at your disposal with internal heating and good beds so the -18 at night is not such an issue.
Hiking back to a tent and -18 is a different ball game and I found it very hard to stay warm at night in these circumstances in March......

[yakshaver]

Again in that instance when you hike back in the afternoon from the Fifth lake you have a choice of magnificent lodges at your disposal with internal heating and good beds so the -18 at night is not such an issue.
Hiking back to a tent and -18 is a different ball game and I found it very hard to stay warm at night in these circumstances in March......

So you suggest an Autumn trek then. Got it. If I go in March, I will have to take my wife with me to keep me warm in the sleeping bag. But she's been on four treks with me and says she's done enough Nepal... So it will be back to Scarlett Johannson.

[kegarne]

Yeah Autumn treks to remote areas like Rolwaling and Manaslu and the Hinku valley where you cannot use lodges as accommodation.
I think the March,April( spring) treks are great on the Circuit, Langtang and the Khumbu. In fact I reckon the views are almost the best in these areas in those timeframes.
However these are just my general rules to follow others may disagree. And it is the Himalaya we are talking about so unseasonal weather can happen anytime, anywhere which can make conditions difficult.

You managed to convince her to go on 4 treks.....you are a lucky guy then if you ask me !

[Bashu Thapaliya]

Hi ,
I have don this trek just last months with My German and Austrian clients . Also i am the Trekking And mountain biking guide fo rnepal and Tibet. In the trek i think now a days possible to do Tea house trek like home stay just we eat local dal bhat in their house . better to carey the nice sleeping bags because their blancktes might be not so much clean . only Larke pass will be a bit difficult . Because we need to cross same days form Samdo to Bhimtang Long day owher wise no problem.

Bashu thapaliya

[yakshaver]

Hi ,
I have don this trek just last months with My German and Austrian clients . Also i am the Trekking And mountain biking guide fo rnepal and Tibet. In the trek i think now a days possible to do Tea house trek like home stay just we eat local dal bhat in their house . better to carey the nice sleeping bags because their blancktes might be not so much clean . only Larke pass will be a bit difficult . Because we need to cross same days form Samdo to Bhimtang Long day owher wise no problem.

Bashu thapaliya

Thanks Bashu Tapaliya. Much appreciated.

[Huw]

>>But she's been on four treks with me and says she's done enough Nepal...

My wife also. She found the evenings cold and boring in Gokyo and lusts after the Greek Islands etc. When I suggested Manaslu for this year she encouraged me to go alone. Actually she said "Go take a hike", which I've taken to mean the same thing. She would like go back to Ladakh however (warmer) but I hanker after Nepal. And does she really mean it when she says "you go, I don't mind." Hmmm. I have some difficult decisions to make........
Huw
--
http://nepaljournals.googlepages.com/home

[yakshaver]

>>But she's been on four treks with me and says she's done enough Nepal...

My wife also. She found the evenings cold and boring in Gokyo and lusts after the Greek Islands etc. When I suggested Manaslu for this year she encouraged me to go alone. Actually she said "Go take a hike", which I've taken to mean the same thing. She would like go back to Ladakh however (warmer) but I hanker after Nepal. And does she really mean it when she says "you go, I don't mind." Hmmm. I have some difficult decisions to make........
Huw
--
http://nepaljournals.googlepages.com/home

Huw,

At the risk of offending some female members I greatly respect... And some sensitive new age males too...

Mozart has an opera named Cosi fan Tute, meaning more or less "they are all the same...". The women, means Mozart. And so do I.


Going every year through similar stuff, mate... Let's form a support group.

[yakshaver]

Thanks kegarne. Useful stuff for everyone.

[Suginami]

Cold and boring? Shouldn't it be inspiring to be in such a pure remote area. At night the place is full of stars and the most wonderful silence. You can't buy that. Pick up a star map in Thamel and you can spend the night star spotting. I did this year down in Lumbini around a bonfire. Wonderful. Boring? Maybe they would like a satelite phone and DVD and watch Dallas.

[kegarne]

Well some people don't particularly like the discomfort of altitude and wild, uninhabited mountain areas.
Even though I love it myself, after 3 months up high, I kinda hanker for a beach and some sunshine.....

[Huw]

>>Boring? Maybe they would like a satelite phone and DVD and watch Dallas.

My wife certainly likes the stars, the trekking, the mountains and the remote places, but she hates sitting from 4pm 'till bed every day in a cold lodge watching people build card houses. It's something you have to accept if doing lodge treks in Nepal and I don't think she is prepared to do it any more, she prefers the Alps and the Dolomites. Everyone is different.
Huw

[RRainey]

Huw, Your wife sounds like she has the same opinion as mine. She also loves to run and hike but does not like altitudes over 10k ft much or sleeping in a sleeping bag, the cold etc.

We did the tour Of Mt Blanc which she loved and In August we are doing the AV1. Have you done that before? RR

[Huw]

>>She also loves to run and hike but does not like altitudes over 10k ft much or >>We did the tour Of Mt Blanc which she loved and In August we are doing the AV1. Have you done that before? RR

Yes, sounds the same! My wife's real passion is running, she only hikes on holidays while I walk every week, mainly on the North Yorkshire moors. We did the TMB last July, enjoyed it very much. Our walking in the Dolomites has been within reach of our base at Castello di Fiemme but AV1 (+AV2) are both ion the list.
Huw

[Thedunno]

I guess I am lucky. I just returned from a 24 day trek through Dolpo with my wife and she loved it. in fact.....she is already making plans for Kanchenjunga (even longer!) next year. It is ME who is looking for a somewhat warmer destination.

Joost

[yakshaver]

I guess I am lucky. I just returned from a 24 day trek through Dolpo with my wife and she loved it. in fact.....she is already making plans for Kanchenjunga (even longer!) next year. It is ME who is looking for a somewhat warmer destination.

Joost

Lucky (or unlucky...) man!

[agatap]

I seem to have this kind of problems with my ... husband.
I love trekking, the higher and more remote the better ... we tried a couple of hikes together, but it was no great success.
So when I was planning our trip to Nepal, I knew there was no point asking him - went with kids, and then my mom and brother joined us for part of the trip :-)

[Sharon]

Hmmm that was my experience as well only a boy friend. I guess Nepal is a good testing ground. If youi can survive a trek you can survive anything togther...

[Huw]

Sometimes it's essential to compromise.
Agreement has been reached on the domestic front in much the same way that our noble Prime Minister 'won' the '42 Day Detention without Charge Bill' yesterday.
Pleading, threats, tears, then bribes, concessions, promises....
It is arranged. We go on the Corfu Trail in September (no complaining and very best behaviour from me) and the memsahib accompanies me to Nepal next Spring. Peace reigns once more.
I believe it's called Pork Barrel Politics.
Huw
-
http://nepaljournals.googlepages.com/home

[yakshaver]

What is the Corfu Trail, Huw?

[Huw]

The Corfu Trail is a 220km trek usually done from South to North, ie starting on flat terrain and ending in the mountains. We've arranged with a local firm to transport our kit bags between stops.
See http://www.corfutrail.org/resources.html
Looks OK really, I guess I'm in a 'win win' situation.http://www.trekinfo.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif
I'm not sure where we'll head for in Spring, perhaps Langtang. I had hoped for Manaslu this Autumn but am not sure about doing it in March/April. I'm not keen on walking in snow - a little OK, a lottle not so OK. It's clear that doing the Corfu Trail in September is not negotiable so Manaslu may have to be Autumn 2010!
Huw
-
http://nepaljournals.googlepages.com/home

[Sharon]

I don't remember Kerkyra being that big! I have been there a couple of times.
That trail sounds like an interesting venture.

[yakshaver]

The Corfu Trail is a 220km trek usually done from South to North, ie starting on flat terrain and ending in the mountains. We've arranged with a local firm to transport our kit bags between stops.
See http://www.corfutrail.org/resources.html
Looks OK really, I guess I'm in a 'win win' situation.http://www.trekinfo.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif
I'm not sure where we'll head for in Spring, perhaps Langtang. I had hoped for Manaslu this Autumn but am not sure about doing it in March/April. I'm not keen on walking in snow - a little OK, a lottle not so OK. It's clear that doing the Corfu Trail in September is not negotiable so Manaslu may have to be Autumn 2010!
Huw
-
http://nepaljournals.googlepages.com/home

Yes, I had a look at the websites on the Corfu trail and it looks very good indeed. Have done a small part of the Amalfi Cost walk this way in December last year.

About Manaslu, please keep me informed, as I will too. It looks like Langtang for me this Autumn (with my friend from Uni). So Manaslu will have to wait until 2009 or 10.

[Huw]

>>About Manaslu, please keep me informed, as I will too.

Definitely. I don't know whether you've seen it but there's an interesting series of videos on the Manaslu trek, about an hour altogether, on Youtube.
It's in Dutch or German (not sure) but that doesn't matter as the sherpas use English as the common language. It seems to end in failure but the film is fascinating anyway and brings on 'Nepal sickness'...! Here's Part 1.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wmDiQgjBegA&feature=related
Huw

[yakshaver]

Thanks Huw, the youtube thingo on Manaslu is very well done indeed... I watched the first three. Next tomorrow night.

[Petrus]

Here is an exellent space photo from Manasu/Annapurna/Manang valley area, available at 12MB resolution free of charge & public domain:

http://earth.jsc.nasa.gov/sseop/EFS/images.pl?photo=STS055-152A-104

I cropped mine so that the viewpoint (bottom edge) is from the south-east, the shadows look most natural that way.

[julia26]

I am trekking around Manaslu and Tsum Valley in October. Would love to here about your trek when you get back

[andrees]

It lloks like , that Mc can be done as a Tea hous trek now. But i would be cautious. If the single Tea hous is full it might be difficult to find another place :eek: . Manslu round was one of the best treks i ever did in nepal, I just loved it. :) :) :)
hav a look at http://www.nepal-dia.de/int__England/ME_-_Travelogue_Manaslu/me_-_travelogue_manaslu.html
Andrées

[Lars]

have a look at http://www.nepal-dia.de/int__England/ME_-_Travelogue_Manaslu/me_-_travelogue_manaslu.html
Very interesting. Thank you!

[julia26]

While around Manaslu are you going to the Tsum Valley, I am planning to do this in October 2009 with 5 others so would looovvve to hear any news if you get into that area.

[Huw]

It's interesting to re-read my posts on this thread. Things didn't quite work out as we thought. We did the Corfu Trail, and very nice it was too, but the plans for Manaslu have had to be delayed until 2010 for various reasons, mainly (well ok, completely) to do with the recession. I'm very jealous of you guys going this year. We reckon we can afford one good European trek this year without prejudicing 2010's Nepal trek and have settled for the Alpine Pass Route in the Swiss Alps, late July, using Kev Reynolds book as a guide. Here's a trek guide for the APR:
http://activityworkshop.net/hiking/alpinepassroute/index.html
Anyone done it, know anything about it? Per?? Looks fairly challenging - but no,it just ain't Nepal!
Sigh.....
Huw
--
http://nepaljournals.googlepages.com/
http://sites.google.com/site/corfutrail/

[andrees]

if anyone is planing Manaslu Circuit for next spring, just be cautious not to start to early. Some german trekkers reported that a few groups had to go back because of a lot of snow in march and theyself just managed to cross larkya la in the end of march, but still with 1,5 m fresh snow.
So it might be wiser to plan the larkya la after mid of april.
it is the second year in a row with nearly no snow in december/January but a lot in February /march

[yakshaver]

Ok, so Manaslu comes back on the agenda. At this time of the year I usually start looking seriously at my next trek.

I am coming back to the idea of doing Manaslu. It could be in October, November or December - starting date is being negociated with the 3 people who've expressed interest (my two nephews and another friend).

If anyone has any more ideas or suggestions (there is already a lot on this thread _ thanks again to all those who contributed) please feel welcome.

Cheers

[Sharon]

Like Andrees I think Manaslu was the best trek I have done in Nepal. Granted tea houses and more trekkers will change the flavour but it will still be spectacular. I would do it again.

[Boulia]

I have arranged a trek, using as many teahouses as we can but taking basic camping gear as I did for Kangchenjunga last year for when we can't get one which I suspect will be at least the 5 or so days we spend up the Tsum valley. Timing is most likely November but depends on flights which I haven't booked yet. Was going to go back round the AC but most likely now will just do Manaslu and return for an EBC trek next March as I like get up that way as often as I can.

[Sharon]

I think I did it in 19 days but on return I would lok at 23 days. Lost of fascinating side trips on that trek. I am jealous of everyone travelling. I think I will be not doing anything big until after the Olympic and Paralympic games here. Being responsible sucks!

[yakshaver]

Boulia, please let me know about your moves. Would love to meet, wether in Kathmandu or on trek at some stage.

I am still to decide on the dates, but it depends on what courses I can still need to bloomin teach with the university.

Sharon,
Thanks for the encouragement. Your first report on this trek a few years back now, plated Manaslu Circuit in my thought.

Kolobar also has some awesome pics.

[cyclingpaul]

There was a documentary on TV here in England last week called the Baby and the Buddah

http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b00kld49

Worth a watch in it's own right, but it contained some awesome film of the Tsum Valley, which I think is on the Manasulu Trek? It looked just like the upper Langtang Valley but without the crowds and developed tourist infrastructure. Anyone been there?

PS Myself and three friends ( one of whon is an ex-Gurkha ) are doing a 100km charity run/walk in aid of the Gurkha Welfare Trust and Oxfam. Please see our Justgiving page if you are interested in making a donation. I won't do a big plug here.

http://www.justgiving.com/thebhatboys

Thanks

Paul

[yakshaver]

Good work cyclingpaul!
Yes, as far as I know Sharon and kolobar habe been around Manalsu.

[lainhartrd]

For those lucky enough to have two months vacation time next spring (2010), do consider viewing our “Ultimate Manaslu Trek” notice under “Trekking Companions” (i.e, trekinfo.com). Besides the traditional Manaslu Circle, this expansive camping trek will include the Dharchy Ridge, Ganesh Himal area, and both the Tsum and the Nar-Phu Valleys. I first did the M.C. in Spring 2002 --- it IS a wonderful experience. Meanwhile, appreciate all of your (Yakshaver, Sharon, Per, Petrus, kegarne, huw, etc., etc.) continuing comments/contributions to this website! Richard

[yakshaver]

This sounds wonderful Richard... Will have a look at the notice. Please keep us informed on that one.
Let me see how I go with just Manaslu and perhaps Tsum, this time around.

[Lisa]

I cannot view the video:(, is there any other way to view them. I tried youtube but it is only a 2 mins clip. I wanted to watch this and take a look at tsum valley.

[Petrus]

In case you missed the other Manaslu thread: We tried to cross Larkya La the second week of April this year, but there was heavy snowfall, maybe about 2.5m of snow in the pass at that time. Trekkers were coming down while we were hiking up the Budhi Gandaki valley, a bad sign. We stopped at Sama Gaon for 2 nights, made some fast calculations and desided to walk back, take a bus from Arughat to Bulbhule and make the approach to NarPhu along the standard AC route.

This was a good desicion: in Dharapani we heard that nobody had come down from Larkya La the whole month (it was the 15:th of April). We lost something like 4 days time, could have hiked down one day faster if one of our party had not ruined her knees. Reason: she was badly overweight.

One member of our party had tried to cross the Larkya La also 12 years ago. It seems that the pass is highly unreliable and enough time should be in reserve to apply plan B like we did. Even though we could not cross Larkya La the trek to Sama Gaon and back was defenetly worth it, it reminds me of AC in the eighties before the mushrooming of lodges (good/bad) and the construction of the road (only BAD what comes to trekking). Tsum must be even better.

We met some people who were going to Tsum with the idea of visiting every gompa there, and there seems to be plenty. Looks like an interesting area. There are many village gompas along the Manaslu route also, but most of the were in a bad condition, more like storege houses than temples. Also most gompas are not functioning, monks seem to migrate to Kathmandu, Pokhara and India and gompas are left empty or in care of one old monk or a couple of young nuns.

Teahouse and lodge situation is developing there, but right now I would not rely on them only but would have a tent with me also. A full scale camping trek is not really needed for MC only, but is convenient in some ways. For a comfortable and safe crossing of Larkya La 2 nights of camping are needed anyway, be it heavy camping convoy or just a light tent and a stove carried by a porter.

NarPhu was great! I fact we are contemplating an "Ultimate North Border trek", which would go from NarPhu to Mustang and continue to Dolpa. It would also take about 42 days of camping style travel. What's best: it could be done in July-August.

The camping trek we just finnished lasted 32 days (Arughat - Sama Gaon - Arughat - bus - Bhubhule - Koto - NarPhu - Ngawal - Tilicho North pass - Marpha) and cost 1480€/pax for a group of 7. Then we continued teahousing to (Marpha - jeep/bus -) Tatopani - ABC - Pokhara 8 days and Lukla - EBC - Shivalaya 12 days. Kathmandu to Gorak Shep took only 5 days (could have done in 4...) as we relied on our old acclimatization and walked up about 30-50% faster than the normal tenderfoots.

[yakshaver]

Excellent detail Petrus, thanks. It gives me a good picture of the situation. I think your idea of the trek from Naar Phu - Mustang - Dolpo is grand!

So many treks... so little time...

I guess your post brings to the fore the important concept of being flexible when it comes to trekking in the Himalayas. Mountains in general I suppose, but especially the high ones.

[lainhartrd]

Thanks, Petrus, for the detailed account of your recent experiences in the Manaslu area. Yes, I understand from several sources that one shouldn’t count on crossing Larkya La until at least the 2nd week in April (and perhaps not even then, as you relate!). In 2002, we didn’t cross until May 14 --- it was okay at the pass but “sloppy” (snow and mud) on the way down to Bimtang. For our 2010 “Ultimate Manaslu Trek” (mentioned in post # 54), we’ve scheduled the crossing for May 2. Meanwhile, appreciate the further info. you provided on the (yet) seldom visited Tsum and Nar-Phu Valleys! Richard

[cyclingpaul]

Thanks for all the great info!

Do you guys think that a Summer trek to Tsum valley ( from Arughat, approx 20 days duration ) would be a good proposition? Is that area in the rain shadow?

Thanks,

Paul

[yakshaver]

Not sure if Tsum valley is in the rain shadow. I tried to locate it on my Manaslu Circuit map, and could not find it... It is probably because it used to be a "sensitive" area for the Chineze, and therefore closed to trekking. I am sure future maps will start including it.

Anyway if Tsum runs south to north (or approximately like that) I don't think it would be sheltered. If it runs east-west then there's a chance. It depends on other factors too.

Whatever... I am looking forward to my foray in Manaslu and Tsum in November. Four more months! Keeps me going.

[yakshaver]

Less than three more months now to the Manaslu trek!! Time's ticking.
Our group looks like being settling on 4 "definites" now, with Della from China, who's been with us on the Gokyo trek in Jan 08, deciding to join.

Can't wait!!

[yakshaver]

Less than three more months now to the Manaslu trek!! Time's ticking.
Our group looks like being settling on 4 "definites" now, with Della from China, who's been with us on the Gokyo trek in Jan 08, deciding to join.

Can't wait!!

Two more months until we touch down at Tribhuvan International for our Manaslu endeavour. Yay!!
From Friday onwards I will be counting in weeks...

[Sharon]

Don't you count the sleeps?

[yakshaver]

Don't you count the sleeps?
Not yet, it is too long to go and I am not very good at delaying gratification...
I usually count in months until I reach the 8 week stage (which is coming this Friday). Then I count in weeks, until a week before departure. Then it is sleeps. See? I have a method.

[catmandu]

What is the best way to do Mansalu Trip? and how many days would it take including Tsum Valley? Can i find map on internet? can it be done in 14 days?

[Petrus]

If there are no delays it can be done in 12-14 walking days from Arughat to Bhulbule. Tsum valley ads maybe 6-9 or more days depending on how far and for how long you want to get there.

[cyclingpaul]

Cor, I'm very jealous. I'm unable to go to Nepal this year and have just been to the Pyrenees instead...nice but just has not got that wow factor.
Look forward to reading your trek report and it's definitely in my diary for next year!!

[catmandu]

thanks a lot for the update, also is there lodge to sleep all along or we've to organise for tents? thank you.

[Petrus]

There are primitive and small lodges in most villages along the Manaslu circuit(can not necessarily guarantee a room), but while crossing the Larkya La you need tents for two nights. No lodges in Tsum valley, I guess.

[yakshaver]

I am told the lodges are being built. In a few years it will probably look like the AC before the road construction.
Right now Santaman tells the there will be at least "a few nights" sleeping in tents. Looking forward to it. End of October cannot come quick enough.

[yakshaver]

Ok, six more weeks from today!

Secondly our group is now five!
Who've paid their tickets. Two ladies and three of the male persuasion. Without counting the LYW, who'll surely be watching us from a distance. Hopefully not too close.

[yakshaver]

Five more weeks!!! YES.

[raksi]

Hi Yakshaver,

I am returning to Manaslu a few days before you (though not for a full circuit this time), but negotiations with a trekking agent are progressing rather slowly. Do you (or anyone else) happen to have an idea of the going rates for guides, porters, and dal bhat in villages on the circuit? For that matter, do you know how much the permit costs now? Any help would be much appreciated.

Exciting times!

[yakshaver]

Hi Yakshaver,

I am returning to Manaslu a few days before you (though not for a full circuit this time), but negotiations with a trekking agent are progressing rather slowly. Do you (or anyone else) happen to have an idea of the going rates for guides, porters, and dal bhat in villages on the circuit? For that matter, do you know how much the permit costs now? Any help would be much appreciated.

Exciting times!

I negotiated a full service rate of 70 USD/day for everything regarding the trek, INCLUDING:
- permits 180-200 USD per person depending on how many days we spend on the Manaslu and Tsum Valley. To that you need to add 2000 Rupes for ACAP, as you also go on part of the AC, wether you want it or not.
NOTE here: bear in mind that you need to be a minimum of two tourists in the group for the Manaslu permit. If there is only one, a good agent can organise a "ghost" name to put on the permit, but you need to fork out an extra 180-200 USD for the "ghost" trekking coleague...

- transfers to Arughat Bazaar and from Pokhara (to either KTD or Chitwan)
- food on trek including a cook who will cook for us.
- tents and mattresses for the nights we need to sleep away from lodges.
- support crew of guide, porters, cook.

Thinking that the trek will be 22-23 days (including a few days up and down the Tsum valley), this comes to about 1500-1600 USD per sperson.

[Lars]

I negotiated a full service rate of 70 USD/day for everything regarding the trek, ..
That is not too bad! How many tourists will you be altogether?

[yakshaver]

That is not too bad! How many tourists will you be altogether?

There are four definites in our group. With another one or two possibles.

That is appart from Boulia who will trek "in paralel" with us. He's got his own guide and support group, and we start on the same date, hoping to hang around the trek.

Should be fun. Want to join?

[Lars]

Should be fun. Want to join?
That trek looks very interesting and I hope to do it within not to long. But right
now I am afraid I must work, and read about others Himalayan adventures :-(

[yakshaver]

That trek looks very interesting and I hope to do it within not to long. But right
now I am afraid I must work, and read about others Himalayan adventures :-(


Ok Lars, two and a bit weeks to go. Actually two weeks to my flight.
Enugh time to make money for the trek...

[yakshaver]

Three more sleeps!

[yakshaver]

Bangkok is as sticky as ever...

[Spaceman347]

Wel if you stayed out of those establishments everything wouldn't get so sticky! :rolleyes:

[yakshaver]

Wel if you stayed out of those establishments everything wouldn't get so sticky! :rolleyes:

Me? No.......... Mind you Kao San Road might have been preferable to the stuffiness of the Novotel Airport hotel, with business people milling around and me in backpacker mode. Just could not be bothered to drive into town.

[yakshaver]

Kathmandu again... Dusty, noisy, dodging cars, motorbikes, pushbikes, rickshaws, people. The usual.

Only it is my first time arriving in the month of October, and I am amazed at the number of tourists in Thamel! Their number is legion, for they are many. In fact legion+1, as I am here.
Just as well I am going to Manaslu and not Khumbu/Everest or Annapurna.

Some interesing stuff: since the deadly accident last year, the Lukla airstrip is operating under very strict rules. They cancel flights at the slightest perceived weather issue, a lot more than in the past. Three weeks ago, some people I met went to the airport four days in a row.
Met two of the group and they seem quite fun and ok, even in daylight.

[Boulia]

Have a great time. Sorry that due to events here this last week i am trekking with you in spirit only. I now plan an extended visit to Nepal about March-April timeframe. I should have mentioned another TI'er Raksi will be coming back towards Arughat in the first few days of your trek. 2 male and a female in the group. You may see them if this description helps at all !!

[Anyone]

Hi Yakshaver,

can you define this better? Your price is not including hotel in KTM. But do you go by public bus to Arughat or private transport?

I got an offer for us of 4 for 2070 US $ (1944 for 6) for 21 days including everything, 4 star hotel in KTM (total 5 nights in Hotel Vaishali), all private transfers to from trek, airport transfers, 1 day visit in Patan and the valley with cultural guide, crew, cook, all food on trek, tents, matresses, all permits (been told the are 180 for 14 days in high season for Manaslu) and a fine dinner on last night in KTM. The offer is for srping 2010.

We only have to pay ourself for remaining lunch/dinner in Kathmandu.

Seems to me a very good offer. Is that so?

Anyone





I negotiated a full service rate of 70 USD/day for everything regarding the trek, INCLUDING:
- permits 180-200 USD per person depending on how many days we spend on the Manaslu and Tsum Valley. To that you need to add 2000 Rupes for ACAP, as you also go on part of the AC, wether you want it or not........

- transfers to Arughat Bazaar and from Pokhara (to either KTD or Chitwan)
- food on trek including a cook who will cook for us.
- tents and mattresses for the nights we need to sleep away from lodges.
- support crew of guide, porters, cook.

Thinking that the trek will be 22-23 days (including a few days up and down the Tsum valley), this comes to about 1500-1600 USD per sperson.

[yakshaver]

Hi,

can you define this better? Is your price including hotel in KTM? Do you go by public bus to Arughat or private transport?

I got an offer for us of 4 for 2070 US $ for 21 days including everything, 4 star hotel in KTM (total 5 nights in Hotel Vaishali), private transfers, 1 day visit in KTM, crew, cook, good food (others told me the serve good food), tents, matresses, sleeping bags, permits (been told the are 180 for 14 days + 30 for ACAP) and a fine dinner on last night in KTM. The offer is for srping 2010.

We only have to pay ourself for lunch/dinner in Kathmandu.

Anyone

No hotels in KTM. Private transport though, no public bus, to Arughat Bazaar. It comes to 1540 USD per person for 22 days, including all four (!!!) permits. Apparnetly Tsum Valley requires a special permit as well.

Hotel Vaishali is not too bad, businessy like. Near Rum Doodle in the middle of Thamel, but you know that.
If it is 2070 for ALL for people, you got a real steal. If it is 2070 per person, then it is par for course with all the stuff included, as you describe it. If the service is good, and they have a good reputation.

[yakshaver]

Have a great time. Sorry that due to events here this last week i am trekking with you in spirit only. I now plan an extended visit to Nepal about March-April timeframe. I should have mentioned another TI'er Raksi will be coming back towards Arughat in the first few days of your trek. 2 male and a female in the group. You may see them if this description helps at all !!

Sorry man, I know you're taking care of what is important right now... I am sure you'll keep in touch regarding next year.

I don't know Raksi...Will look out for them.

[Anyone]

Instant reply Yakshaver!

thanks for the reply. Seems we're on the right way. Enjoy your trip!

Anyone

[Petrus]

Last April-May we paid 1400 euros/pax for a 30 day Manaslu-NarPhu-Tilicho-Jomsom trek, 7 trekers. That included all transport but nothing in Kathmandu.
1400€ is about 2100 USD at the moment. The tender you have is quite fine in my opininon.

[yakshaver]

Instant reply Yakshaver!

thanks for the reply. Seems we're on the right way. Enjoy your trip!

Anyone

Instant reply, I am ok with that. Never instant coffee. Life is too short for intant coffee.

[nikky]

Hi 'Anyone'

The Vaishali charge each person R 100 per day, for each day you're away on trek, for bag storage - so if you're not made aware of this, it's a nice little surprise on your return.

But the good news I learnt this trip is that the international departure tax of R 1700 has been abolished - though there is still the small domestic departure tax.

Yakshaver: Hope you have a really good time!:)

[Anyone]

Hi Yakshaver,

checked "instantly" and no, no storage charge in Vaishali for us. Seems they think also for that. Small things make life happy :) .

Thanks for the info BTW,

Anyone

[yakshaver]

Just a quick update, for now, after our trek...

Out of the six of us, three just did the Tsum Valley, while three went on and crossed the Larkya La doing the whole Manaslu Circuit. I was in the first group: my good friend Vlad, who was a first-timer to Nepal (and whom I pestered to come...) developed a chest infection in the Tsum. He's a heavy smoker. He did not have the confidence to carry on. I returned with him to KTM, after 13 days of trekking. Nick, our good doctor from Norfolk, also had problems, but his were due to his recent operation.

However, everyone enjoyed the trek tremendously, and Tsum is an absolute gem. A Shangri La if you like, though it would not be so for long... Marvellous traditional villages, and childred who do not beg for balloons or sweets or pens. It is quite obvious that these people did not have to deal with tourists until very recently.
Tsum would be a marvellous place to go to, without a plan or agenda, and linger around, doing some exploration as one feels like.

Della, Olivier and Andy rejoined the Manaslu circuit and completed it. They had snow on Larkya La, and it was apparently a long and very difficult day.

Santaman, Shera, Ram, Nakur and their porters and cooks were excellent, as usual. They even provided a shower tent and hot water for each one of us to wash every third day. It was great!

I hope to be able to put up some pics in the near future.

BTW, I had my first encounter with the Maoists, in 11 treks... Not directly. They looked at us as we passed by, but collared Santa who was walking slowly with Nick at the back of the party. Whey they joined us at the lunch break, Nick informed us that Santaman had to pay them 1500 rupees per tourist. They wanted 2500 but Santa negotiated down. They wrote a receipt for the total sum, for the name of the trekking agency, including the number of tourists etc.

Also related to the MaoMao... On the way back from Kathmandu to Bangkok, I sat three seats away from Pushpa Kamal Dahal (aka Commrade Prachanda), who was probably going to China to receive further instructions. He had about five minders around him. Else I would have initiated a discussion to clarify the comparison between spiritual meditation and sexual activity in the monkeys at the Swayambunath Monkey Temple.

[lainhartrd]

Hi, Daniel (= “yakshaver”):
Yes, think you are exceptional (but you know that, already?!), to have had only your first encounter with the Maoists in eleven treks! For me, it’s been four times in seven treks (so far). But think that your implied strategy is noteworthy: trekkers should go on ahead and let your sirdar, guide or whoever “negotiate”. (Sometimes it works, sometimes not.) Based on your posting yesterday, got a note from our KTM trekking company that their recent (October) Manaslu group had 1200 NR (each) “extracted” from them ---.
So sorry that you, in deference to your sick friend, were not able to (apparently?) complete the entire Manaslu Circle yourself! From my spring 2002 experience, the upper Buri Gandaki (Sama Gaon/Samdo) area is the highlight. But look forward to hearing more, in particular, about your Tsum Valley experiences!
Meanwhile, our “Ultimate Manaslu Trek” for Spring 2010 is still on. (See posts # 54 and #59 above.) Currently we have four of us signed up. As you’ve said (Thank You!), it IS an incredible experience!
Richard

[rich]

As you had a captive audience, you should have made a scene and demanded your money back.

[yakshaver]

As you had a captive audience, you should have made a scene and demanded your money back.

Was quite tempted... But we were roughly 40 minutes ahead of Santa and Nick. Did not feel like turning back when I found out. Lunch was beckoning.

[rich]

No No I mean on the plane when you had prachanra cornered and sipping away at his merlot.

[yakshaver]

No No I mean on the plane when you had prachanra cornered and sipping away at his merlot.

Thought about that too... His minders were quite protective. And I was sipping my merlot as well.

Plus, I did not want a big political discussion with the guy.

[Lars]

Plus, I did not want a big political discussion with the guy.
Why not? With your background from "both political systems" you could have
given the man some real life info on where his "good intentions" are likely to lead.

Personally I have never lived under communism but I visited several such
countries, including some east European ones, and the oppression and failed
economies were so obvious.

Meanwhile many intellectuals, and the sweetest girls, back home where leftist
and quite unimpressed with our tales of the reality from commie lands.

[yakshaver]

Agree, I guess I was tired and not in the mood for political talk...

Also agree with the romanticized view some in the "west" had about the "socialist paradise". I guess, if you were not actively oposed to the system politically, and not a member of some religious group wich was banned, or "restricted, than there was a good period between about 1965 and 1975 in the commie lands (at least in the Eastern European country where I lived for 20 years...). Economic stability was certainly happening during those 10 years or so.
As my family ticked both the categories mentioned above, they did not have such a good time, with a number of my close relatives in jail between 1947 and 1978...
Hence the decision to leave the socialist paradise in 1978 and move the the capitalist hell. Not that there is an ideal situation anywhere on earth. But some societies and systems are gentler towards their citizens than others.

[Anyone]

HI,

wow three seats away from the big Prachanda! That must have been your karma. Do maoist shoot yaks?? Guess there are few where the yaks graze.

However, quite dissapointet that you did not try to talk to Mr. Dahal aka Prachanda on at least the issue of extorting tourists on the Manaslu circuit.

But who knows how I would have reacted. Never mind.:)

Anyone

[yakshaver]

HI,

wow three seats away from the big Prachanda! That must have been your karma. Do maoist shoot yaks?? Guess there are few where the yaks graze.

However, quite dissapointet that you did not try to talk to Mr. Dahal aka Prachanda on at least the issue of extorting tourists on the Manaslu circuit.

But who knows how I would have reacted. Never mind.:)

Anyone

Yes, I had my upgrade do business (too may points from my European trips in 2007 and 08). This is how I ended up next to our comrade.

I wander as well why I did not approach the guy to talk to him. I was a bit down at the time, another trek finished, this time earlier than expected, the problems we had with the health of a couple of my friends, etc...
I guess I was not in the mood. You need to have a certain energy to conduct a potentially confrontational discussion, and still remain civil.

Not witnessed the maomao shooting yaks. So some nice ones on the way to Mugumpa, near Lar.

[Anyone]

Hi Yakshaver,

besides the fact that I forgot to let you know we had also a great trek around Manaslu, with the (for us nice) vantage that we had no health issues. It's definately as you wrote a wonderful trek to do.

For the big P. on the plane, definately he seems to enjoy business class, wonder if he had already so many points like you as frequent flyer.

Seems maos enjoy capitalist services. Can understand your point not to be in mood. Anyway, surely it was an insteresting part of the flight back!

Happy days and happy 2010!

Anyone

[yakshaver]

Thank you Anyone. Have a great 2010 as well!