Annapurna Circuit trip report

[Escher]

We have just finished the Annapurna Circuit and I can't add much to the excellent trip report by Mr Silvertop, but here is a little news. We trekked from 28/2 to 17/3. Started in Besisahar (didn't take jeep/bus to Bhulebhule), took the high route from Pisang via Ghyaru and Ngawal and attempted to get to Tilicho via Khangshar. On the way out we went via Ghorepani and Ghandruk.

- Fuel prices have increased so taxi rides are a little more expensive. 400 nrps from the airport to Thamel, 3000 to Besisahar from Pokhara, 1250 from Nayapul to Pokhara.

- We didn't encounter the Maoists anywhere on trek. The only sight of them was driving past Pokhara Lakeside in their election campaigning Land Rover.

- We collected our TIMS certificate at the Pokhara NTB office when we paid the ACAP conservation fee. I think we needed 4 passport photos (or was it 3?), 2 for TIMS and 2 for the ACAP permit. You can get photos done at several places near the NTB/ACAP office but the intermittent electricity supply doesn't always make this easy. Although Julia was able to get a photograph done, even though there was no power, fairly quickly I think it is Worth taking a few photos with you as you need a couple for the Visa too. The TIMS registration included details of your travel insurance (policy number and contact number) and your next of kin details. So it is useful to have a note of these.

- The beginning of the trek was quiet. We didn't see any other trekkers at all until the third morning.

- Look out for Langur monkeys in the trees just before the hike up the hill to Tal.

- The road is generally avoided on the Marsyangdi side save for the stretch around Bagarchap. There is a lot of work going on forcing the road through after Chamje, although this consisted of guys trying to break up huge rocks with hammers and metal spikes. Sometimes they are working above you and you need to take care of rocks being thrown off.

- The weather was generally fine and clear save for 1/2 a day of light snow near to Bhratang. Up to Throung Phedi the lowest temperature I recorded in our lodge room was 1 degree C, 4 degrees at the very least everywhere else. Although ice was present outside showing that it was below freezing outside the lodge rooms are reasonably well insulated. My -5 bag was plenty yet again and I was never cold at night sleeping up to 4500m. Out of 9 treks I have only once experienced temperatures low enough so I was cold at night, even at 6250m! My personal opinion is you don't need as warm a sleeping bag as many people take. It was colder in London when we got home on Sunday!

- On the Jomsom side it rained/hailed 4 or 5 days on the trot, though only for an hour or two at most in the early afternoon. There were a few electrical storms, big hail stones and it got wetter as we got lower. We were indoors for most of it, but got absolutely drenched near to Ghandruk. I haven't seen rain that heavy for quite a while. Still didn't think it was worth taking waterproofs though. Would have used them just once and we were soon able to dry out our clothes once at the lodge. One of those big plastic poncho
things that goes over your pack as well might be good especially if you are trekking in the Ghorepani/Sanctuary area.

- The rhododendrons around Ghorepani were stunning. The forest there really is amazing. If you haven't seen them in flower you owe it to yourself to see them in full bloom. There is nothing else quite like it. The Jasmine on the forest floor smelt absolutely wonderful too (unlike me).

- Had a really hot shower in the Snow Leopard lodge in Marpha - the food was not so good however. We deviated from Dal Bhat for one night and chose a veggie burger. This consisted of 2 stales slices of bread with mayonnaise and ketchup splodged on it and a slice of apple and a slice of cabbage!

- The woman in the Hotel Laxmi in Khangshar made the best Dal

- The Mona Lisa lodge in Shikhar made the best Dal Bhat I've ever had

- The shower in the Sunny View lodge in Ghorepani was so hot you couldn't actually get in it and there was no cold tap.

- Quite a few people we met complained of bed bug bites. Most had hired sleeping bags from KTM. Beware!

- I didn't find that the road detracted very much from the whole experience. The AC is so much more than just the walking - the fascinating villages and
people and the wonderful natural wealth of the area. The road could be avoided for 95% of the time and it remains a world class trek. I am glad that we didn't fly out of Jomsom and think that the whole trek is still a very worthwhile proposition. It never was a wilderness trek in any case. For me it wasn't as spoiled as some have made out. I trekked the AC in 2002, Jomsom side in 2003 and the Marsyangdi side in 2004. This last trek was equally as enjoyable, just different because of the road in places, not worse IMO. It is what it is and the road is now part of it. The worst part of the road is around Jomsom, with a few motorbikes and jeeps passing you but not really that bad at all, but that section has always been dusty and windy and, for me, the least enjoyable part. But the AC is worth continuing with after here as there are so many interesting places to experience after Jomsom.

- Ghyaru and Ngawal are well worth doing and were a major highlight. The views were tremendous and the villages fascinating.

- Khangshar is also a worthwhile side trip. There is a newly built lodge at about 3900m an hour or so past Khangshar. Going via Khangshar and this new lodge on the way to Yak Kharka is a worthwhile acclimatisation side trip. We took the direct route from Khangshar to Yak Kharka which we were told would take an hour. It took 5 hours and was quite a slog but does take you to a fascinating view point looking back over Manang.

- We attempted to get to the Tilicho Base camp lodge (which was open - check in Khangshar) and went via the high route (there are two routes - high and low - the low one is supposed to be more treacherous). At around 4700m where the trail stops climbing it goes across steep landslides before heading down to Base Camp. When we were there the trail was impassable. A landslide had removed the trail for a short section and I found it impossible to kick steps into it as it would fill in the steps immediately as it was very loose and steep. The drop was large and a slip would be very costly, I didn't fancy it without a belay.

It may have improved now with some more traffic but as we saw it the higher route is not "safe" as it is described on the ACAP signs. We turned round at that point and we saw a party who had successfully crossed the lower path. They were either more brave than us or the lower trail was more substantial.

- We crossed the pass from Thorung Phedi and left at 5.30am. This meant it was light by the time we got near high camp. There were a number of people who crossed the pass that day but I was amazed to find that we had the top of the pass completely to ourselves for an hour when we were up there as everyone was either in front or behind us. The weather was fine but windy, there was some snow on the ground and as it was old, compacted and icy in places it was a little treacherous. Poles were useful but I almost wished I had an ice axe with me to cut some steps here and there. There were patches of dodgy, sloping snow on the descent too which meant 100% concentration was required on the way down.

- When you have your permit checked at the police post in Jomsom don't put it away as there is another checkpost (ACAP one) ten yards away!

- I recharged my camera batteries in a number of different places and didn't get charged for the privilege apart from in Manang.

- Didn't try the internet anywhere on trek so have no idea of what was good and what wasn't

- Didn't suffer as much noise as the Silvertops although I always have earplugs with me. In Pokhara though, next time, we will stay towards the Damside end of Lakeside. There were a few live bands playing in the evening next to the hotel we were in, although they did finish by about 10.30. One of them was exceptionally good and the covers they played were extremely tight and competent. Sounding like a bunch of session musicians and I would have liked to have seen them play. But they were very loud!

[thesilvertops]

A very interesting and useful report. The circuit is still worthwhile doing especially if you can fit in more than the basic route.

Thank you.

[Escher]

The circuit is still worthwhile doing especially if you can fit in more than the basic route.

Absolutely. I hadn't deviated from the basic route on the previous occasions I had been but this time we enjoyed very much the extra places we went to. Staying in small, rustic lodges with only a couple of rooms, sitting round the stove with the family is what tea house trekking is all about for me and there is a lot of that to be had on the AC. And with the side trips that you have generously documented and the ones that Per suggests there is plenty of scope for future trips, road or no road.

Cheers

[Escher]

Some pictures from our trip:-

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2399/2364407578_678381177b_b.jpg
Windy Valley Near to Marpha

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2114/2363576449_58740de626_b.jpg
Lead Pack Mule

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2130/2361116331_edeedeaaab_b.jpg
Heading Towards the Thorung La

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3144/2364405410_b41a0898ba_b.jpg
Kagbeni Gompa Wall Painting

[Escher]

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2236/2360603120_5ba357c7b0_b.jpg
Pisang Peak from Khangshar

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2136/2361073023_15fed9d743_b.jpg
The eyes of Boudhnath

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2208/2361074055_1047dc116b_b.jpg
Khobang

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3290/2363650871_fc82ef4b43_b.jpg
Thamel Light Trails

[Escher]

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2330/2361098071_ff973465c5_b.jpg
Khangshar Ram

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2363/2361906684_2a80dcf617_b.jpg
Marpha Street at Night

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3053/2361907688_739961696a_b.jpg
Lalitpur Lady

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2152/2363650195_641dd96ac3_b.jpg
Crow Mobbing a Kite in Kathmandu

[gregsc]

Great report Escher
Hows the political situation? Is it getting a bit hot as the election nears?

[Nepal_Trekker_2008]

Thanks for the report! Great info. I will be there soon! A few very quick questions.

1. Is travel insurance mandatory for issuing the trekking permit? I am an independent trekker. Just turn up with photos and $$?

2. Can you ball-park the current estimated costs/day on the trek itself?

Thanks again for the informative post!:)

[Escher]

Great report Escher
Hows the political situation? Is it getting a bit hot as the election nears?

Of course, as it always does near to an election in Nepal. There is a lot of uncertainty amongst the public over what is going to happen once the result is known. But there is hope for the future too. The Maoists have stated that they will start military action again if they do not win to try and intimidate people into voting their way. The papers are full of stories of attacks by Maoist and YCL cadres on other party officials and intimidation tactics. Hopefully their shameful tactics will blow up in their faces.

But as a tourist the situation was safe and just the same as always. We saw a number of election rallies, but they were peaceful and we were able to go about our business everywhere we went in the country. Normal advice applies, stay away from big gatherings, keep to the main tourist areas and I am sure all tourists will have a safe and happy holiday over the next few months (aside from upset stomachs and the normal travellers hazards).

[Escher]

Thanks for the report! Great info. I will be there soon! A few very quick questions.

1. Is travel insurance mandatory for issuing the trekking permit? I am an independent trekker. Just turn up with photos and $$?

2. Can you ball-park the current estimated costs/day on the trek itself?

Thanks again for the informative post!:)

1. I don't think so. There are two things you have to do for trekking in the Annapurna region. Pay the ACAP fee (2000nrps in KTM or Pokhara, 4000 on trek). With this you get a permit with your photo on that is checked in a number of places. There is no mention of your insurance details with this part.

The other thing you have to do is register with TIMS. TIMS is a new database that logs details of trekkers and where they are going to aid in tracking someone down if they were to go missing. On this form there is a space to provide your insurance details. I didn't have my insurance details with me when I registered and no-one queried the lack of a policy or contact number on the form. You could write anything down to be honest. My TIMS certificate wasn't checked at any point, not asked for. In fact I lost it at some point. I was going to scan it so I could show it on here so you know what details they may ask for.

You can do both these things at the NTB office in Pokhara. Registering with TIMS is free at an NTB office (Nepal Tourism Board) or about 250nrps if you do it through an agency.

2. On trek, for two of us we averaged about 2000nrps per day. Many places were cheaper (especially the more rustic places) and some more expensive. 2000nrps is about USD$31 based on the current exchange rate of about 64nrps per $.

[Nepal_Trekker_2008]

Thank you!

[thesilvertops]

We spent 83,000 NRs on our 39 night, 40 day trek round AC and in to ABC. This is near enough 2000 NRs per day. That's all food and drink for two but no bottled drinks - beer, fizz or water. We drank various kinds of tea, coffee and chocolate and we treated water with iodine for cleaning teeth. Some days we spent a lot more then 2000, other days less.

Love all the pics. Could you give info on cameras used?

[Escher]

Could you give info on cameras used?

You may wish you had never asked!

I carried 17kgs on the trek, 7 of which was camera equipment.

I upgraded from a Canon EOS 350D to a 40D just before the trip. I found it to be a superb camera, my photography improved a lot through the trip through having so many opportunities to try and get the best out of the camera, having some nice lenses also helped, although my macro lens had to survive twice being dropped on its end onto rock!

Kit list:-
Camera
Canon EOS 40D
Lenses
Canon EF17-40L F4
Canon EF70-200L F4
Canon EF100 Macro F2.8
Canon 430EX Flash
Canon 1.4 Teleconverter

I used the 70-200 for telephoto and portraits. For the latter it was excellent and sharp as a tack. The 17-40 for landscapes and as a general walk around and the 100 macro for portraits and flowers/insects etc. I used the external flash quite a lot too, bounced with a diffuser in gompas and for buddhist artwork inside stupas/chortens, and as fill in flash outdoors in the large amount of high contrast situations. Along with 3 batteries, chargers, full size tripod and 30GB of CF cards I was regularly cursing the amount of kit I had, but I used it all and I am very happy with the results I got.

We also took a tiny HD camcorder and I have to say some of the footage viewed on a large HD screen is really quite astounding. The quality of the new generation of affordable high def camcorders is really impressive, the colour rendition and sharpness quite amazing. If you are into that sort of thing they are well worth looking into. It is a Panasonic SD-5 HD camcorder if anyone is interested.

Now I have to devote all my spare time to editing 3000 photos and 4 hours of video footage! I filmed the flight from Kathmandu to Pokhara with extensive clear views of the Himal between the two places. I expect that footage may look particularly impressive in HD.

[redders]

Hi Escher
Thanks for a great report ,its good to know Annapurna Circuit is not spoiled and is still worth doing .
We are off to Everest Region in a few weeks
Will we need to register with TIMS ,is it compulsory ?
Your photos are beautiful , and will you be posting any more .
Last time I was in KMD I took about 10 photos of that Stupa and not 1 of them comes anywhere near that one of yours
Cheers Mike

[Escher]

Will we need to register with TIMS ,is it compulsory ?
Your photos are beautiful , and will you be posting any more .
Last time I was in KMD I took about 10 photos of that Stupa and not 1 of them comes anywhere near that one of yours
Cheers Mike

Yes TIMS registration is compulsory. Not that anyone checked that we registered whilst we were trekking. It's easy enough to do though. Free if you go to the NTB office or 250nrps if you get an agent to do it for you.

I'd love to post some more pictures if you enjoy seeing them. A bit of luck, some expensive lenses and taking thousands of pictures results in a few nice ones but I am pleased with some of the results I got. Thanks for the compliment and I hope you have a great trip.

[Escher]

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2168/2368499529_a2b5b66f03_b.jpg
Annapurna II

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3262/2368500073_058ec32e35_b.jpg
Butter Lamps

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3076/2368501023_0837227983_b.jpg
Lammergaier

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2047/2367021178_25c33ffafa_b.jpg
Rhododendron Forest in Full Bloom

[Escher]

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2359/2366182765_d8f29d9056_b.jpg
Bridge to Syanje

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2383/2367019244_dec1012ba8_b.jpg
Kagbeni Gompa Festival Mask

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2165/2368502375_7c457a1074_b.jpg
Yak on the High Route to Tilicho

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2011/2369372676_9512ba6b74_b.jpg
Julia Heading Down from the Pass

[thesilvertops]

Hi, Escher

Love the new pics. There is a lot less snow compared with a month earlier when we trekked the AC.

I've also had a look at your FlickR pages. Great to see that the Lakes features so prominently. When I was teaching I used to go there a lot, training courses, with students, DofE, etc., but not so much lately. It is one of my favourite places.

By the way, your Lammergaier is an Himalayan Griffon Vulture. The pointers are: the tail shape, the under wing patterning and the breast colour. Great shot, though!

[Escher]

By the way, your Lammergaier is an Himalayan Griffon Vulture. The pointers are: the tail shape, the under wing patterning and the breast colour. Great shot, though!

Ah, thanks for the clarification. I wasn't sure. A large group of them flew very close to us for half an hour on the way up to Khangshar and it was quite a spectacle.

I was surprised to read in your report about the amount of snow. We saw very little at all really and only encountered it on the trail going over the pass and we weren't there much longer after you were.

The Lakes is one of the most beautiful places I have ever been too. It is not like anywhere else I have ever seen. I am a southerner from Kent but now live in Lancaster and I feel blessed to have them on my doorstep which means we can dash up there whenever there is good weather. They are covered in snow at the moment and there is a terrific view right across most of the Lakeland fells from the Bowland fells 5 minutes from where I live. I do feel lucky to live in the North West. If only it would stop raining!

All the best.

[Lars]

Brilliant pictures Escher! Literally breathtaking!

I hope you will let us see some more from this trek. Most of us have been there,
I as late as last November. But I still love seeing those pictures. And to read
comments on various villages and lodges etc.

[Escher]

Thanks Lars. Here are a few more...

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3035/2371159609_18a68e2903_b.jpg
Jharkot and Muktinath

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2275/2372259494_fda7906e43_b.jpg
Swyambu

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2360/2373534346_20eb8ae0ca_b.jpg
Beetle in Flower in Dana

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3209/2372698113_2c47037398_b.jpg
Sunset from Shikhar on Dhaulagiri

[Escher]

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3028/2371337374_7a0c89189c_b.jpg
Ponies near Jomsom

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3002/2371154681_e37c24afa2_b.jpg
Stupas Near Marpha

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2039/2379966545_5b95ea53b1_b.jpg
Pigeons at Boudanath

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2388/2380792868_af9f04dbf5_b.jpg
Holi kids

[Escher]

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3275/2371061503_0c54beced1_b.jpg
Annapurna II

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3038/2370044015_c3a00b4e12_b.jpg
From the Flight to Pokhara

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2029/2372256790_c3d412a3cc_b.jpg
Marsyangdi Road Construction

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2117/2379953279_2c77befbd4_b.jpg
Orchid growing on the bark of a rhododendron near to Ghorepani

[yakshaver]

Fantastic stuff! Thanks Escher. Again.

[thesilvertops]

Your picture of Jharkot and Muktinath clearly shows the new "community centre" in Jharkot which is now dominating the skyline. Where were the 3 stupas at Marpha? They make a lovely picture.

More of the pics from our trek in Jan/Feb are now on our site:

http://www.pbase.com/thesilvertops/nepal_2008

[daras]

Hi Escher,
Wonderful pictures!!!! Congratulations !!
You wrote you had a HD camcorder. It was for miniDV,DVD or HDD?
During my last trek (2006) I had a photobank - with very cheap HDD (Samsung 60GB). I've copied photos from SD without any problems even in Gokyo (4800); but some others had a lot of troubles with expensive devices. Their photobanks (HDDs) didint work propertly.
Before my next trek (Sep/Oct 2008) I want to buy a new camera (HD) but still afraid about HDD over 4000m. What is your experience?
Otherwise I'll choose HD camera with miniDV.

Thanks again for your brilliant photos and ..... I'm waiting for the next ones :-))
daras

[Escher]

Your picture of Jharkot and Muktinath clearly shows the new "community centre" in Jharkot which is now dominating the skyline.


As soon as I came over the pass and saw that new building in Jharkot, I thought "ugh - how ugly." I don't remember the wall around the Muktinath temple complex from the last time I was up there either. Also there is that brightly painted chinese looking building. The whole view of the area was very surreal after coming over the Throung La. Not how I remember it - it looked like something from a theme park from high up - perhaps my memory of it from 6 years ago is vague.


Where were the 3 stupas at Marpha?


After you cross the landslide just before the trail/road bends right into Marpha there is that big lodge/hotel on the left and a long - freshly painted (gold and red) wall of prayer wheels in the centre of the trail. The three stupas were there.

[Escher]

You wrote you had a HD camcorder. It was for miniDV,DVD or HDD?

Before my next trek (Sep/Oct 2008) I want to buy a new camera (HD) but still afraid about HDD over 4000m. What is your experience?
Otherwise I'll choose HD camera with miniDV.



Thanks Daras. We have a Panasonic HDC SD1 camcorder that records onto SDHC memory cards. I didn't have any problems with it at all on the trek. We filmed on top of the Thorung La at 5400m and it was fine. I haven't reviewed the footage since I got home and I am pretty sure it was ok at that height. I will have to find the Thorung La footage to confirm to you that it indeed wrote to an SD card at 5400m. I filmed the flight to Pokhara and assuming the plane is unpressurised then that must be the equivalent of recording at 15/16000ft and I have reviewed that footage and it is excellent. The quality of footage is pretty amazing - you can't fail to be impressed. HD cameras are the way forward!

[daras]

Hi Escher,
Thanks for your reply. Yes, there are no problem using SDHC memory cards and miniDV tapes. The lower pressure (over 4000m) is not important for these elements. The problem can appear when you use HDD or DVD. Therefore (I think) I have to choose between memory cards and miniDV tapes.

BTW: How many GBs of SDHC you recorded? As I remember it was 4hours; it was 1080i quality?

daras

[Escher]

1GB = 10 minutes of full HD footage and we shot around 32GB, so about 5 hours. I found some good deals on SDHC cards in the UK just before we left. I think the biggest down side was the cost of spare batteries as there were no cheap copies available. These were around £80 each. There were plenty of places to recharge it however. But the 110v power supply did mean it took a long time to recharge the batteries.

[thesilvertops]

I suspect that someone has made a killing "facilitating" construction and building the new "community centre" in Jharkot. There's also one in Manang across the river and to the left of the Gangapurna glacier moraines. It's abandoned and in decline. Once the money has been made all interest is lost.

I was surprised how the Muktinath temple complex wall shows up in your photo. It's really pulled in. I'm not sure of the blue/white building on the right but the new Raunipawa gompa is behind it so it must be a lodge?

[Andrew]

I just saw your report. Great pictures, Escher!! And I cannot get over the clarity of them. Absolutely superb. Thanks for sharing. Can't wait for you to post the remaining 2,970 or so pics on your flickr site!

Andrew

[peteris]

Very nice pictures, Escher. It's clear from the first seconds that you had good lenses (Canon have these constant F4, unlike Nikon :(). And you learned a bit to make some adjustments in PC too. I will wait for others.
Good report too!
Peteris

[Landfall38]

As always, Escher your photos are remarkable -- thank you! :)

(We're pining to return -- hoping for december 2008 but work may screw this up.)

Trip report: we agree with your trip report that the AC remains a wonderful trek (i.e., it was not "ruined" by the road). Our costs Nov 2007 were 1800 rupees/day for two.

Landfall38

[thesilvertops]

The lodges in Landruk seemed very run-down. Those in Tolka seemed much, much better. The Peaceful guest house seems to be winning the "highest dinning room" competition but I don't think anyone would risk going up there, would they? The lodges at Jhinu (at the foot of the climb up to Chhomrong) were also very nice and welcoming.

http://www.pbase.com/thesilvertops/image/95215551.jpg

Were the stairs built like that or have they just assumed that shape?

[julia]

That's a good photo! The stairs look like they have lots of character, you wouldn't want to have too many beers and then be leaning on the bannister would you! :eek:

[Oli]

Ha! I stayed in this lodge in 2002. And we did venture up to the top floor of that tower - a nice view up and down the valley, but every time the wind blew the whole thing would sway and creak. It was just about the most scariest place I have ever been in Nepal.

[redders]

Hi Escher
Just letting you know that ,looking at your pictures ,have added 1000 pounds to the cost of my trip in 4weeks to EBC
I have decided that my compact camera is not good enough and have decided to go for a Canon 450D and a couple of lenses
Have to get used to it in 4 weeks ,have you a mail address on Flickr I might need some very simple tips regarding Landscapes and Portraits etc ,you can have my mail address if you like,We live in Manchester area and not long ago we were walking in Bowland and hopefully this Saturday the Fairfield Horseshoe in the Lakes ,its a small world
Cheers Mike

[yakshaver]

Hi Escher
Just letting you know that ,looking at your pictures ,have added 1000 pounds to the cost of my trip in 4weeks to EBC
I have decided that my compact camera is not good enough and have decided to go for a Canon 450D and a couple of lenses
Have to get used to it in 4 weeks ,have you a mail address on Flickr I might need some very simple tips regarding Landscapes and Portraits etc ,you can have my mail address if you like,We live in Manchester area and not long ago we were walking in Bowland and hopefully this Saturday the Fairfield Horseshoe in the Lakes ,its a small world
Cheers Mike

I go through the same dilema, but in reverse to yours, before every trek: I have a Nikon with two lenses (and a universal 28-200 Tamron). And every time thinking that I have to lug that around my waste, or neck, up and down hills in Nepal I cringe. So I go to shops looking for a nice compact that would do an amazing job. Never find any, and end up carying the Nikon and lenses. But I go through the same routine of soulsearching and dilema stress, and looking through shops before every trek. There must be some therapeutic advantege for me doing that somewhere...

[Escher]

Fire away with questions Mike, I am happy to pass on the little bit of knowledge I have. Might be better to post your questions on this forum, however as there are plenty of other people who can give good advice about photography in Nepal and the answers might be helpful for others too. Nice camera the 450D, I don't think you will regret buying it. Try to get them to throw in a mini tripod if you can (assuming you won't want to carry a full size one) as it will be very useful in Nepal. Spend as much as you can on lenses, quality glass is where the good results come from. There are many forums on Flickr (the Canon 40D one is good for tips, don't know if there is an equivalent for 400/450D), or try the forum on DPReview for plenty of advice too.

Indeed small world. But don't tell anyone about the Forest of Bowland. I'd never heard of it until I moved to Lancaster and it is a hidden gem of a place, don't want the Yorkshire 3 Peaks hordes finding out about it!

[deserteyes]

I'm with this converted SLR club. I too thought that there was little point in me taking my SLR, and suffering the weight until I looked through your photos Escher. Very inspiring. I can't wait to get out there, though it will be some months yet for me.

Just a question about the equipment. I do know my limitations, and there is just no way that I will be taking the number of lenses you mentioned! In any case, I don't own that many lenses. In fact, I only own one: A Sigma 30mm F1.4. It takes very sharp photos, and though there are limitations with its range, I have been reluctant to buy a cheaper quality zoom. Equivalent quality zoom lenses would be sky high in price, so I haven't bothered to buy one. Do you think I would miss out by not taking a zoom? I seen you have a Canon F4 zoom, are you happy with the quality of it, and how heavy is it?

Again, lovely photos, thanks for sharing. DE.

[Lars]

Once again I have looked through this thread and I still get this grabbing
sensation in my body when I scroll through Eschers pictures.

Dare I add to this? I have a pocket camera and it certainly does not make
pictures comparable in terms photographic clarity. But still, there is one angle I
have not yet seen in this thread. It is Thorong La shot from below, on the way
to Kagbeni. It must be Jharkot low centre, and Muktinath in the background.

I love this, looking back at where I have come. Sometimes I am quite
amazed at how far I have come in just one day.

http://web.telia.com/~u84408784/Trek/Thorong_La_from_Below.jpg

Thorong La from below

[Escher]

Do you think I would miss out by not taking a zoom? I seen you have a Canon F4 zoom, are you happy with the quality of it, and how heavy is it?



Yes I do! Nepal is absolutely fabulous for photography; scenery, people, culture - everything is there. The f4 L series zooms are excellent (the 70-200 is a gem and I use it for portraits as well as a telephoto) but they aren't cheap (but of course a lot cheaper than the f2.8 L series zooms). The 70-200 is about 1/2 kg and the 17-40 a little lighter. Only you can decide what you are prepared to carry. I am (relatively) happy to carry 4-5kgs of camera kit. Most people won't be.

[jackfriday]

Also impressed with the stunning photographs.Is that a digital camera you used?

[Humid Northerlies]

Escher, can you share some of the aperture and shutter speed details of your landscape photos? Also, do you shoot with ND filters?

[Escher]

Sorry JackFriday I never saw your reply and yes I do use a DSLR a Canon 40D.

Humid Northerlies: with a crop sensor on the 40D I generally shoot F8 for all landscapes, I find a smaller fstop above F8-F11 does not increase the depth of field as diffraction on a small sensor comes into play. I always get the best results at F8 and that also hits the sweet spot of my lenses. I rarely use ND grads as most of the shots I take are on the move while I am trekking and getting filters and the tripod out is too much faff but I bracket everything +/-1 to 1.5 stops and shoot RAW so I can recover highlights and use Lightroom 2 to process and use the grad tool that that has. Occasionally the highlights are too blown or the contrast is too high to work, it depends on the conditions really but I find even at altitude when the sun is striking the ground as well as the mountains then the difference between fore and background is within the dynamic range of the camera. If it is wider than the camera can cope with then I will just pick out details with the telephoto or shoot flowers or insects. Just depends on the conditions really.

I mostly put my camera on aperture priority and f8 for landscapes and let it set the shutter speed and adjust the ISO to get the shutter speed quick enough to avoid camera shake. Often I am out of breath climbing a hill and not very steady so I leave a bit more room to make the shutter speed quick enough so you might have heard people say you should use1/focal length to be steady, but I go for 1.5/focal length-ish. so 40mm = 1/60, 200mm 1/300 and so on. Anyway that is what works for me!

If taking pictures in the evening after finding a room in a lodge I'll get the tripod out and set the camera to manual or shutter priority and play with longer exposures.

Hope that wasn't too much! I don't know your photography experience so I am happy to explain more (or less!) if that'll help.

[Spaceman347]

I'm just thinking about commissioning Escher to accompany me on my next trek (whenever that may be) as official trek photographer. I need photo's of that, and that and get some good shots of that......

I've tried listening to his advice for the last couple of years and my photography is improving but still got some way to go.

[Humid Northerlies]

Sorry JackFriday I never saw your reply and yes I do use a DSLR a Canon 40D.

Humid Northerlies: with a crop sensor on the 40D I generally shoot F8 for all landscapes, I find a smaller fstop above F8-F11 does not increase the depth of field as diffraction on a small sensor comes into play. I always get the best results at F8 and that also hits the sweet spot of my lenses. I rarely use ND grads as most of the shots I take are on the move while I am trekking and getting filters and the tripod out is too much faff but I bracket everything +/-1 to 1.5 stops and shoot RAW so I can recover highlights and use Lightroom 2 to process and use the grad tool that that has. Occasionally the highlights are too blown or the contrast is too high to work, it depends on the conditions really but I find even at altitude when the sun is striking the ground as well as the mountains then the difference between fore and background is within the dynamic range of the camera. If it is wider than the camera can cope with then I will just pick out details with the telephoto or shoot flowers or insects. Just depends on the conditions really.

I mostly put my camera on aperture priority and f8 for landscapes and let it set the shutter speed and adjust the ISO to get the shutter speed quick enough to avoid camera shake. Often I am out of breath climbing a hill and not very steady so I leave a bit more room to make the shutter speed quick enough so you might have heard people say you should use1/focal length to be steady, but I go for 1.5/focal length-ish. so 40mm = 1/60, 200mm 1/300 and so on. Anyway that is what works for me!

If taking pictures in the evening after finding a room in a lodge I'll get the tripod out and set the camera to manual or shutter priority and play with longer exposures.

Hope that wasn't too much! I don't know your photography experience so I am happy to explain more (or less!) if that'll help.


Escher that was great thank you. Pretty much just what I was looking for. I have the experience of butchering a great number of landscape photos in the past using f22! You learn your lessons hard!
Also it's nice to hear you can get such good results in the day without using a tripod or without fussing with filters.
It's a shame I don't have any L series lens, I'm having to shoot with the 17-85mm EF-S, which seems to do alright as a walkaround for me (using a 20D). UV filter I just keep on as standard. May also take my very small and light 50mm.
I'm somewhat tempted to grab an ND filter....

[Escher]

My partner has a 17-85 and I think it's a pretty darn good lens. L lenses have their disadvantages if you have to carry them!

Not posted any in a while so here are some more:-

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2313/2380918618_54b3cbcf62_b.jpg
Marsyangdi road crew

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2267/2414484726_6f07b59197_b.jpg
Highest tea house in the world?

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2175/2414358076_841958c9a5_b.jpg
Terraces

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3214/2756783507_c472c6e703_b.jpg
Carved water chutes

[jules21]

that guy in the blue shirt looks like he's about to throw a punch :)

great photos though